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Kids trad climbing?

Original Post
Ted Wilson · · Ovilla, Tx · Joined Aug 2017 · Points: 734

My 9 year old has been climbing with me for a couple years now and is now starting to lead trad.
Does anyone else have any kids that lead or know of any?

Jason Kim · · Encinitas, CA · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 255

Awesome job, dad. Helmets are for weaklings. 

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,687

+1 for putting a helmet on him.

Alex (spellstrike) Palmiter · · Duluth · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 30

I see a spec of blue farther up the crack. Be aware that pre-placed gear does always stay where you leave it.

F Loyd · · Kennewick, WA · Joined Mar 2018 · Points: 808

Wow, seems a bit young to me. My son is only 7 and he is on top rope. I'm not sure I could place his life in his hands that young. I remember that kid Tito Claudio Traversa dying recently because he and his climbing group did not have their quickdraws done right. I would be afraid of bad placement leading to a zipper situation. It only takes one mistake to ruin a day, and kids make plenty of those.
I will say though, everyone parents differently. If you have solid technique and they are well versed have at it. 

Pnelson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 635
Ted Wilson wrote: My 9 year old has been climbing with me for a couple years now and is now starting to lead trad.
Does anyone else have any kids that lead or know of any?

Is that "Ra" in the Wichitas?  Badass!

rafael · · Berkeley, CA · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 35
Jason Kim wrote: Awesome job, dad. Helmets are for weaklings. 

to be fair, kids do bounce better than adults

Will Haden · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 90
Lena chita · · OH · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 1,667

Well, Chris Lindner lead 5.10a trad at the age of 4... And even soloed at that age...

Toddler soloing

I think he did 12a on gear at the age of 6? But not every kid is Chris Lindner, and he might have been pushed more than an average parent would consider reasonable.

Put a helmet on him, and I hope he keeps climbing because he enjoys it, and not because he is pushed to do it.

Eric Engberg · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 0

I think your son leading trad is fine.  I think your not-so-subtle boasting and bragging about it to an unknown public.....

a d · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 5

Having young children myself, I totally relate to wanting my kids to climb but a 9 year old leading trad seems like a bad idea.  Google "prefrontal cortex development age".  The tl;dr is that your young child's' brain is probably not developed enough to handle the complex thinking needed to safely trad climb (which isn't so complex for adult brains).

John Barritt · · The 405 · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 1,083
Pnelson wrote: 

Is that "Ra" in the Wichitas?  Badass!

Actually......Atomic knee drop, but practically the same thing.... ;) the placement below his feet is bomb proof but should have been extended to prevent drag.

Nasty pre-planned runout if the blue sling above is his next clip. If he slips before getting it (unlikely) he skids off the bulge and comes about 5' from decking.
Jon Frisby · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 280
John Barritt wrote:

Actually......Atomic knee drop, but practically the same thing.... ;) the placement below his feet is bomb proof but should have been extended to prevent drag.

Nasty pre-planned runout if the blue sling above is his next clip. If he slips before getting it (unlikely) he skids off the bulge and comes about 5' from decking.

There's a #3 on his harness

John Barritt · · The 405 · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 1,083
Jon Frisby wrote:

There's a #3 on his harness

And a 2, and a .75......

The point was not what he's carrying but whether or not if he's clipped pre placed gear......

He's got slings on there too but he didn't use them either.....
cyclestupor · · Woodland Park, Colorado · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 91

Yikes!  I have a 6 & 7 year old, and I can't imagine letting either of them lead trad when they are 9 (Especially without a helmet!).  

On the other hand, as a parent, you do have a lot of control over his actions.  If your kid is within sight the whole climb, you can always prevent him from running it out too far, give him gear beta (make sure he doesn't place a #1 where a #2 belongs), make sure he doesn't try to lead routes that are beyond his ability and if all else fails, break his fall (like Michele Caminati's belayer https://vimeo.com/210809039)

One thing's for sure.  The kid will be a very skilled climber (if he isn't already).

Ted Wilson · · Ovilla, Tx · Joined Aug 2017 · Points: 734

The top piece was a nut I placed when climbing.  I didn’t have a nut tool so he cleaned it on his rap down.  He sewed the crack up this is him placing his 2nd # 3 once above the crack.  I appreciate all your comments but just wanted to see what other kids are doing.  I know kids are tearing it up in the gym but I haven’t seen much on kids climbing outside.  Again love all your comments!

Ernest W · · Asheville, NC · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 25

Really bad idea, but if you’re determined to push risk boundaries with your child, for God’s sake put a helmet on him. 

John Barritt · · The 405 · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 1,083
Ted Wilson wrote: The top piece was a nut I placed when climbing.  I didn’t have a nut tool so he cleaned it on his rap down.  He sewed the crack up this is him placing his 2nd # 3 once above the crack.  I appreciate all your comments but just wanted to see what other kids are doing.  I know kids are tearing it up in the gym but I haven’t seen much on kids climbing outside.  Again love all your comments!

Fair enough, maybe he can haul me up LTD in a year or two.......

Couple of tips based on the pics, extend the placement mentioned above and a small stopper on the right side of the little block keeps the rope from running in the left crack and saves a bunch of drag.
Barry M · · WV · Joined Nov 2017 · Points: 0

Where is the brain bucket?!?!? 

T C · · Bozeman, MT · Joined Feb 2017 · Points: 1,238

I started trad leading when I was 14, and I bet I could have started younger if I was more stoked on longer routes when I was little, its fine to have a kids lead, as long as they know their shit.

Robert Hall · · North Conway, NH · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 28,893

Concussions are BAD, concussions in kids are worse.  Doc's today can fix most any broken bone except a broken skull and resulting serious concussion.  Put a helmet on him, and get one for yourself if you don't have one.  (which is about the only reason I can think of that he wouldn't have one on)

That way, if things "go south" one day, it will be likely that both you and he will be there for his High School and College graduations.  

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Trad Climbing
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