hang board dead hangs vs pull ups compared to campus

I have been doing 6 week cycles of hang board dead hangs and alternating campus routines.    I'm curious about were pull ups on a hang board would fit in,  are they more akin to a campus workout because of the added movement and changing load on your fingers or are they more like a dead hang since your fingers don't leave the board.   Thoughts?

Ken Carrara wrote: I have been doing 6 week cycles of hang board dead hangs and alternating campus routines.    I'm curious about were pull ups on a hang board would fit in,  are they more akin to a campus workout because of the added movement and changing load on your fingers or are they more like a dead hang since your fingers don't leave the board.   Thoughts?

Neither.  Campus boards are intended to recruit fast twitch muscles (sometimes called contact strength by climbers), which hangbored pull-ups do not do at all.  

I’ve found hangboars pull-ups to not do much. Do dead hangs (max or repeaters) on a hangbored, and then go nuts on the pull-up bar.  I have gotten some good results from weighted pull-ups.   

For me, hangboarding with the shoulder and core engaged seems to hit all the muscles that a hangboard pullup hits to begin with. I hangboard regularly and don't do pull-ups regularly, but whenever I do pull-ups I can do more pull-ups than I could do before, or harder pull-ups[1] than I could do before. That tells me that what I'm doing is already adequately training those muscles, so I don't need to do pull-ups.

[1] I increase the difficulty by using a knotted rope slung over the pull-up bar and doing an asymmetrical pull-up with one hand on the knot and one hand on the bar. Moving the knot down makes it harder.

It is generally accepted that combining small holds and pull-up training is a recipe for injury.  So, I'd stick to pull-ups on the larger holds (and maybe add some weight).

Offset pull-ups on the hang board will reveal muscle imbalance (ie, weak side). The other exercises can be added to address that/those weaker muscles.

Stephen Felker wrote: It is generally accepted that combining small holds and pull-up training is a recipe for injury.

Source?

From personal (someone w/ no shortage of pulling strength) experience, being able to hang on a small hold and being able to pull off it are vastly different animals.

reboot wrote:

Source?

From personal (someone w/ no shortage of pulling strength) experience, being able to hang on a small hold and being able to pull off it are vastly different animals.

Yes, that's absolutely true. If you want to try hard moves, you have to be able to hang on the holds but you still need to be able to pull in and worse, actually let go. Pulling in with two arms is rarely the issue compared with locking off and sticking the next hold.

I think that if hanging onto bad holds is not a problem but pulling on them is, a carefully tracked program of 1RM weighted pulls and small sets of same (3 or 5 reps) on first pad edges can be useful to assess where you're at. Also helpful are offset pullups on the campus board and locked off one-arm hangs on jugs rings or flat edges if you can handle them.

Thanks for all the information