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Mallorca Climbing Shops? Partners? Beta?

Original Post
Marc Vee · · Morristown, NJ · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 0

Hey all.... just wondering if there are any climbing shops around Mallorca?

I'm heading there with my wife (doesn't really climb) from June 24-29th. Was gonna get a guidebook and just wing it but it's a little sketchy if I'm climbing by myself. Do you think most of the major dws areas will have climbers there? If not, do you think I should look into a guide or charter a boat, if possible?

I don't think it's smart if I went dws'ing with my wife if she is just sitting around...just in case there's an emergency.

Let me know some of your thoughts.

Tom Blake · · London UK · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 0

Hi Marc,

No idea about shops I'm afraid but heres my 2 pence. 

There are a few spots where escape is nice and easy, so you could be ok with just you and your wife. I wouldn't want to go fully solo but there will be spots where she can get in for a swim and keep an eye out while still being able to escape without needing to climb.

I was there last September with some friends and we saw a few other climbers, some climbing alone, but not a huge number at the DWS spots. We found that the DWS rating S0 was really quite safe; as long as you can swim you'd probably be more likely to get hurt on an equivalent sport route!

If you feel the risk is too much I would say take an old pair of shoes anyway and go to Santanyi for a quiet afternoon: https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=9522 There is a ladder to get in and out, there are routes at amenable grades and you can happily jump from the top of the cliff! Plus, any climber in Majorca should go and pay homage at the arch of Es Pontas, which is just around the corner. Legend has it that when the wind is just right you can still hear Chris Sharma power screaming.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yOQYlheOLy4

Tom 

Tom Blake · · London UK · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 0

Oh, the other crag we went to was called Cala Sa Nau https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=4211 . It's much more exciting with a big arch over the water (the route is called Virgins Are Only Human), but the approach and escape are less straightforward

Easy-ish to get out, the easiest route up and out I would grade at 5.8, or you can make a few easy but risky moves up to the left of the main arch. Worst case scenario I reckon you've got a mile swim around the headland back to the beach!

Up to you if you fancy it alone. I would recommend looking on UKC (the links I posted); thats our climbing hub here in sunny sunny england, and you may be able to find someone who is on the island at the same time. 

Tom

Marc Vee · · Morristown, NJ · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 0

Tom, thanks for the beta! Will definitely check out the site. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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