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Updated info on new bolts at Red Rock?

Original Post
Christopher Kelly · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 443

I’ve been trying to do some research on the bolting issue at Red Rock. This thread doesn’t intend to address at all the issue of bolt replacement or retroboltong. As background (correct me if I’m wrong), Red Rock is a “wilderness” area, and as such, there is a total bolting ban for new bolts. Correct?

On the Southern Nevada Climber’s coalition website, there is a section which mentions that they have created maps showing the boundaries of the “wilderness area” but those map links do not work, so no luck there.
http://www.southernnevadaclimberscoalition.org/bolting-initiative-information/

I ran across a thread from 2008 where where there was a rigorous discussion about the potential for the BLm to consider some sort of permit system that would allow bolting on a case by case basis, but since that thread, I could not find any further information on the subject.

So in short, I’m hoping to get a little information on the following things:
Is there some resource showing the officials policy, and if the policy currently is just “no new bolts no matter what,” what are the official boundaries of the ban? (Apparently calico basin does not fall within the regulation because 100’s of routes have been no bolted there in the last several decades)?

If the ban has been in existence for decades, and according to MP and the the Handren guidebook, does that mean that any route with a single bolt on that has been developed since that’s ban began was developed “illegally?”

As kinda mentioned above, Calico Basin does or does not fall within the wilderness area?

Any further updates on BLM policy changes having occurred or that are being contemplated?

Nicholas Gillman · · Las Vegas · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 327

So the SNCC website has been in the process of being totally overhauled for a while I’m certain the maps not working is an unintended side effect of that. Quite a few SNCC board memebers frequent MP so I’m sure it will be on the radar to get fixed now.

Bolting is allowed in the calico hills as you correctly mentioned it isn’t in a wilderness area but it butts up again wilderness areas so if your endgame is to develop a new area and/or climbs on what you might think are the edges of the calico hills feel free to ask around if you are uncertain what an areas status is.

No new bolts are allowed in the wilderness save for replacement bolts that are addressing outdated/dangerous/non-modern hardware to the tune of 1:1 handdrilled bolts.

The permit system to allow new bolting in the canyons has been kicked around for quite some time but because the framework would have to be built off whatever comes out of the long embattled recreation management plan for the area it’s pretty much on hold seemingly indefianlty. 

Ryan Fenton · · Jackson, Wi · Joined Nov 2022 · Points: 10

new wilderness maps link

Wilderness Maps USA

Arin F · · Las Vegas · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 64
Ryan Fenton wrote:

new wilderness maps link

Wilderness Maps USA

I put this link in the FAQ thread a while back

Desert Rock Sports · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Aug 2019 · Points: 2

Nicholas is pretty much right on.

SAR is allowed to put in bolts for rescue.

old5ten · · Sunny Slopes + Berkeley, CA · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 5,806
Nicholas Gillman wrote:
The permit system to allow new bolting in the canyons has been kicked around for quite some time but because the framework would have to be built off whatever comes out of the long embattled recreation management plan for the area it’s pretty much on hold seemingly indefianlty. 

pretty much our future for NPS wilderness areas and all NFS areas if the bolting prohibition becomes a reality...

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Nevada
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