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Red flags in tyrolean and rappel

Original Post
Mark Prior · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 0

Greetings - I am non-climber, but frequent adventure racer. These multisport endurance usually include some token rope skills, most often a rappel accompanied sometimes by a tyrolean traverse. As these are races with people motiviated by time, usually raced by non-climbers, it has always struck me as a recipe for problems. Conversely, I usually know very little about the experience of those who setup the ropes.

My question: What are the red flags I can look for when quickly evaluating the safety of such a setup in a few moments, often at night?

Ideas;

- Inspect anchor points - look for what?
- look for frays or rope damage/protection over rocks? 
- Is a tyrolean without a second safety line a no-go?

Apologies if this is wrong channel or too amateur. Not looking for overall advice on concept, but specific actionable checks I can use to quickly apply.

Thanks!

Mark

Stagg54 Taggart · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2006 · Points: 10
Ryan Swanson wrote: I would guess that the race organizers would have a huge liability if the anchors, ropes, and gear needed isn't in a safe configuration, but I've been wrong once or twice before.
You're putting a lot of faith in race directors.  I've met a few.  Most are great people and do things right, but then there are the others.  
Sam M · · Portland, OR · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 30

They have highly experienced people doing it, Jay smith used to do rope work for these races.

Abram Herman · · Grand Junction, CO · Joined May 2009 · Points: 20

The first thing I would do is ask the race organizers what the qualifications are of those individuals they have setting up such obstacles. Do they have an AMGA, PCGI, SPRAT or some other technical ropes type certification? If they don't, that's when I would start to look at the setups more carefully. It's hard to distill what to look for into a few sentences, because there are so many variables. To answer your questions, though:

- What is it anchored to? Is there more than one anchor (e.g. two or more bolts), or if not, is the single anchor point *extremely* trustworthy (e.g. a very large live tree, or a very large rock)? Are they using multiple locking biners to create redundancy?
- Yes, good thing to look for.
- Not necessarily, it is quite common to use a single rope for a tyrolean (assuming it's in good condition, attached to good anchors, etc.)

nathanael · · San Diego · Joined May 2011 · Points: 525

Just find someone fatter than you and let them go first.

Jim Titt · · Germany · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 490
nathanael wrote: Just find someone fatter than you and let them go first.

Check for bodies below.

JohnnyG · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 10

a big red flag is that you are rushing in a race. Likely to clip in incorrectly--this happens to people at all levels of climbing, especially when rushing.

You probably wont be able to assess an anchor as a neophyte.

You can make sure you
1) are clipped in correctly,
2) double check your set up connecting you to rope. Then have a friend double check you
3) then weight the system before you commit to it (to be specific, put your weight on the system while you are still clipped in to the anchor)

Realistically it's a little too much to explain online during a lunch break.

Anonymous · · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 0

No way you could inspect anchors because I would assume you are on one side of the void and at most could only see the half of the anchor you are starting at while the other side is to far away to see. Unless of course they let you walk around the entire race before hand and inspect everything you will have to do.

Mark Prior · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 0

Thanks to all for response, especially Abram and JohnnyG.

For what's it worth, I have been doing these races for 20 years. I used to trust blindly, but recently had a kid, which somehow rewired me to be more cautious, so I am starting to assess more critically. I race solo and sometimes do arrive first, which makes me even more hesitant. These are the actionable steps I am now adopting:

- One line tyrolean ok
- Check for double-anchor
- Pre-weight rope

Thanks for a few tools in this effort. Would definitely love to hear more ideas....

Jimmy Yammine · · Ehden, LB · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 1,761

Mark,
there are a few things that I have learned to look for:
- Is the anchor SERENA: secure (are the anchor points solid), efficient (doesn't apply to your setting), redundant (multiple points of anchorage), equalized (all points are weighted equally, no-extension (if any part were to fail), Angle (I don't know how to explain it concisely).
-If there is a single rope, you want to look for fraying. Another point does it rub repetitively against any sharp edges as that can mean eventual failure. does the rope look discolored by the sun or look like it hasn't been stored correctly.

As stated earlier your point of contact is also the most likely for failure.
None of these are hard rules to live by. It is impossible to get all these things right in a real-world setting. By watching and being aware you will learn what to look for.
Simple anchors are not bad anchors.

Cheers

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

General Climbing
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