Moving to New Mexico

Hey guys,

  I'll be moving to Northeast New Mexico (outside of Las Vegas, NM) to work the summer season.  I've never climbed in New Mexico but love the landscapes.  I'm just looking for any local beta anyone wants to share or connections with climbing partners.  I'm most experienced at sport climbing where I'm a 5.10 leader and trying to get stronger.  I boulder at V3 and I'm just getting into trad (I've lead a single pitch 5.7).  Is there anywhere in the Las Vegas area for after-work bouldering/single-pitch leads? I'm hoping not to lose too much strength this summer so that I'll be in good shape for the fall dirtbag season.  I just love climbing so suggestions for anywhere awesome in the area, regardless of style are always welcome.

I know this isn't directly related to what you're asking about (after work climbing), but you're about to be living about an hour away from Roy, NM. Bring a hang board, chase shade, and get fucking hyped. Also, go buy New Mexico Bouldering by Owen Summerscales. The Ortegas are also a similar distance and are more heat tolerable in the summer. Seriously though, bring a hang board and hit the five-star spots hard on the weekend. You'll come home stronger and more stoked than ever before. Again, sorry this isn't related to after work climbing around Las Vegas, NM. Hopefully someone else on here can help you with that.

I'm looking for all climbing.  My days off will be in the middle of the week so I definitely will be making day trips to surrounding areas.  So thanks.

Thanks guys! Is there anything closer than Taos for roped routes that is worth visiting? 

From what I've heard there's a lot of potential at hermits peak for new routes of all types. There is developed sport climbing at compels climbing which could probably be an after work area.

Richmond C wrote: Thanks guys! Is there anything closer than Taos for roped routes that is worth visiting? 

https://www.mountainproject.com/area/106295872/comales-canyon

Really fun crimpy sport routes on bomber quartzite that really shine in the 5.10/11 range. I second the squat bouldering cave.. it'll be your outdoor gym.

Bouldering at Hermits Peak is pretty fun as well. Easy access right along El Porvenir Creek. 

Just don't poop outside!!! If you do, triple bag it, and call hasmat if you get any on the ground. Never mind, that is too much work. Just leave a paper cover pile and BLAME IT ON ARIZONANS!!! Hahaha!

I knew it was you Eric!  :-(

Near Taos, visit Tres Piedras if you want to push the envelope on the Trad front.  For sport climbing, check out El Rito (about 1-2 hours east of Taos). The cobbled sport climbing is very interesting and fun.  I've heard about some good sport climbing right in the Taos area as well.

Cheers,

Disclaimer: I am not a local, but I love New Mexico, and climbing in NM.  I try to get out there whenever I can to climb and visit friends.  That being said, here I go.

I don't know how far you'd be willing to travel after work, but about an hour west of Vegas is the Pecos River Canyon (I live in the midwest, and traveling an hour after work to climb outside would be a dream).  According to the MP page, it doesn't seem to get much climber traffic, and I can attest to that.  The approach is pretty non existent for some areas.  I went with a couple friends, and had a bunch of fun.  Diablo Canyon is on my list of crags to visit next, which is near Santa Fe.  Diablo has some multi pitch, as well as a bunch of single pitch, and a decent amount of 10s.  Las Conchas in the Jemez was decent, but that is a little far.  Another far one, but with easy access and a bunch of 10 climbing is Box Canyon in Socorro.  I have never run into huge crowds, but I might be climbing at off times.  

As an out of town climber, I found going to the climbing gym in ABQ (Stone Age), as well as just hitting up an REI.  Best of Luck!  I love climbing NM.

Sighhh...welcome to NM, and you will most certainly find decent places to climb, many of which have been covered. But rest assured, NM is no destination, and mostly consists of scrappy little crags that are fine if you live here. 

I haven't climbed there but The Squat is mighty convenient for Las Vegas residents. 

If you keep exploring the world of Trad climbing Las Cruces is worth a visit fall/winter. Checkerboard wall of you want a quick approach but the organs are the true jewels. 

Not sure about local stuff in las vegas but El Rito is only a few hours away and has some pretty awesome climbing, from all grades of sport cragging to multi-pitch and single pitch trad climbing. The rock there is this really cool conglomerate stuff and generally pretty good in movement and rock quality.

eli poss wrote: Not sure about local stuff in las vegas but El Rito is only a few hours away and has some pretty awesome climbing, from all grades of sport cragging to multi-pitch and single pitch trad climbing. The rock there is this really cool conglomerate stuff and generally pretty good in movement and rock quality.

80 mostly chossy routes with 50 Colorado plates in the parking lot. There are better and less traveled options. 

the schmuck wrote:

80 mostly chossy routes with 50 Colorado plates in the parking lot. There are better and less traveled options. 

I recall 3 - 5 sets of plates over 3 days of staying there in Late May last year.  Plates were from utah, NM, and Colorado.  Felt like we had the place to ourselves.  By no means was this area busy.  

Nothing wrong with a little choss boss.  Not that I pulled any, or heard / saw anyone else pull some, it was in the back of my mind on every route.  I had fun.    

bruno-cx wrote: A season or two ago I saw an out of town slide in camper that was left in the parking lot of El Rito.  I guess the people went a beer run.  El Rito is the most popular crag in the state by a long shot. It's usually pretty busy and full of chuffers since it climbs like plastic and the grades are soft.

Yeah I was probably there in the middle of the week, was pretty dead.  I guess it's probably pretty close to Santa Fe, probably draws in the crowds much like shelf road.

So I just found out that I'm going to be climbing at 24HH this year. I'll definitely be going to Roy to work on stuff that's close to southern sandstone but my overall training goals have now switched from building strength and power to building hardcore endurance. Where are the best places to just do lots of pitches? 

Hey Richmond; you noted that you'll be in NM over the summer.  Although Roy is a very nice place to go bouldering, not phenomenal, but nice, I'd recommend against going there in the summer. It gets really hot, and is overrun with mosquitos and rattlesnakes that time of year.  There are better summer bouldering options, like in the Ortegas.  Overall there are few areas in NM that are great in the summer. The Dungeon is good as it is shady, and El Rito and Comales are fine in the morning through the early afternoon. There are some unpublicized local crags that are nice, and I'd recommend that you make friends with folks like Foley and Spike out of Taos.  If you want sandstone, I'd recommend something like Piedra River by Pagosa Springs.