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same problem different angle 40 vs 25

Original Post
Greg Koeppen · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 41

With the updates to the Moonboard app having different settings for angle, what difference does this make? Overall how does everyone feel a problem's grade would change when adjusting the angle from 40 down to 25.  With the new hold set the app does this for you (i think), while with the older hold setup it does exist as an option.  I kinda want to get a feel for adjusting the older set's problems down to a lower angle.

I'm interested because I have the Black and White holds on a board that I can adjust the angle.

Greg Koeppen · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 41

Interesting mathing, does real world climbing back that up? V4 becomes very and v5-6, v3

Will Handy · · Denver, CO · Joined Aug 2016 · Points: 10
Andrew R wrote: Simple: 40/25 = 1.6, so divide all grades by 1.6 and round down

e.g. V7/1.6 = V4.375 = V4

Use tangent (in radians, not degrees) to calculate new star ratings 

All problems at 0.001 degree are V0, and all problems at 0 degrees are V-undefined!
The real answer is that it depends on the problem. Climb it and see how it goes.
Alexander Blum · · Livermore, CA · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 143
Greg Koeppen wrote: Interesting mathing, does real world climbing back that up? V4 becomes very and v5-6, v3

No, he's just being funny. There are too many variables to make a simple correlation like that. I don't think there is a way to figure this out other than trying problems and noting your perceived grade.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Bouldering
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