Fingerboard training
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How soon is too soon to start training on a fingerboard and how many of you are actually doing it? |
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You want to wait a few years for your tendons to catch up, so if you’ve been climbing for less than 2 years I wouldn’t. It’s also not going to be worth your time if you’re still in the 5.10 range, as the best thing you can do is to just climb a lot and improve your technique. |
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So far I have seen two schools on this matter. First one is like you suggested - climb 2 years to get tendons and pullies strong, climb, climb, climb and then start fingerboarding. Second aproach was summed up in saying like the best training for climbing is to climb is like saying the best training for basketball is to play basketball since there are specific drills and exercises (that goes for every other sport too). |
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My opinion: you can start hangboarding as soon as you have a counterweight pulley system set up to reduce the weight you're effectively hanging with. But think of it as an injury prevention exercise for now. What that mean is: use hangboarding as a supplement to your climbing, not a replacement; remove tons of weight by using the pulley system; only train the grips that you don't use very often, or that you feel very weak on; and don't get obsessed with hanging with the most weight or using the smallest holds. |
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No need to hangboard as a 5.10 climber. It's very boring and uncomfortable. I would recommend putting it off till you need it |
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The thing with hangboard training is; |
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If you have to ask then it is too soon |
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Jeffrey K wrote: The thing with hangboard training is; This, there is about a 110% chance that the problem stems from poor foot work and incorrect center of gravity location and has absolutely nothing to do with finger strength. I see no problem with hangboarding at your level for developing increased finger strength as long as you use a counterweight pully system other than the fact that it may train you to continue to componsate for poor footwork and body position by overgripping the holds. |
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+1 for the comments that its likely poor technique holding you back not strength. |
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I have been climbing for only a year and I have been trying hangboarding. Just make sure you bend your elbows slightly and NEVER do a closed crimp. |
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Gym bouldering is all you need right now. Develop technique and strength that way. |