Mountain Project Logo

Fingerboard training

Original Post
B SK · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2018 · Points: 0

How soon is too soon to start training on a fingerboard and how many of you are actually doing it?

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 252

You want to wait a few years for your tendons to catch up, so if you’ve been climbing for less than 2 years I wouldn’t.  It’s also not going to be worth your time if you’re still in the 5.10 range, as the best thing you can do is to just climb a lot and improve your technique.

B SK · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2018 · Points: 0

So far I have seen two schools on this matter. First one is like you suggested - climb 2 years to get tendons and pullies strong, climb, climb, climb and then start fingerboarding. Second aproach was summed up in saying like the best training for climbing is to climb is like saying the best training for basketball is to play basketball since there are specific drills and exercises (that goes for every other sport too).

So yeah, I am a 5.10 climber and I have been climbing less than a year so the reason why I am asking this is because some holds feel sketchy so wouldn't be benefitial to train for certain holds specificialy. I mean, I don't see only physical benefit (actual strength) but also mental ("I spent x hours training and I am confident I can handle that crimp/sloper/whatever")

aikibujin · · Castle Rock, CO · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 300

My opinion: you can start hangboarding as soon as you have a counterweight pulley system set up to reduce the weight you're effectively hanging with. But think of it as an injury prevention exercise for now. What that mean is: use hangboarding as a supplement to your climbing, not a replacement; remove tons of weight by using the pulley system; only train the grips that you don't use very often, or that you feel very weak on; and don't get obsessed with hanging with the most weight or using the smallest holds.

Peter J · · Bishop · Joined Aug 2017 · Points: 647

No need to hangboard as a 5.10 climber. It's very boring and uncomfortable. I would recommend putting it off till you need it

Jeffrey K · · Seattle, WA · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 0

The thing with hangboard training is;

A) you're already working your tendons when climbing and it takes time for tendons to develop, so hangboarding as a new climber very easily leads to overtraining. And if you fatigue your tendons you're going to set yourself back a LOT. Risk/reward.

B) if you're having trouble with holds at a 5.10 level it's almost certainly because of poor footwork and center of gravity rather than finger strength.

I say all of this as a 5.10 climber who was also very curious about hangboarding and got it in my head that finger strength was holding me back. After really looking at it and watching other climbers I realized B was the real problem. When you come across a sketchd hold really look at the footholds and direction of pull and try to work it out from there.

Go Back to Super Topo · · Lex · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 285

If you have to ask then it is too soon

Ken Noyce · · Layton, UT · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 2,658
Jeffrey K wrote: The thing with hangboard training is;
....
B) if you're having trouble with holds at a 5.10 level it's almost certainly because of poor footwork and center of gravity rather than finger strength.

This, there is about a 110% chance that the problem stems from poor foot work and incorrect center of gravity location and has absolutely nothing to do with finger strength.  I see no problem with hangboarding at your level for developing increased finger strength as long as you use a counterweight pully system other than the fact that it may train you to continue to componsate for poor footwork and body position by overgripping the holds.  

Mike Slavens · · Houston, TX · Joined Jan 2009 · Points: 35

+1 for the comments that its likely poor technique holding you back not strength.  

If you've been climbing <1 yr the risk/reward just isn't there for hang boarding.  There are other ways to build up strength (ie bouldering) that will be more effective for you and less chance of injury.  Plus you can use it to work on your technique as well.

Seth Bleazard · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2018 · Points: 714

I have been climbing for only a year and I have been trying hangboarding. Just make sure you bend your elbows slightly and NEVER do a closed crimp. 

Harumpfster Boondoggle · · Between yesterday and today. · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 148

Gym bouldering is all you need right now. Develop technique and strength that way.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Training Forum
Post a Reply to "Fingerboard training"

Log In to Reply
Welcome

Join the Community! It's FREE

Already have an account? Login to close this notice.