Best Beginner Crags at Peterskill?

I'm taking a beginner climbing at either Gunks or Peterskill this weekend. I'm competent with tree anchors and I have a static line, but I've only been to Peterskill once. My question is two parts:

1. Is Peterskill a better idea than easy climbing at the Trapps? I don't want to spend too much time moving tree anchors around or waiting for large groups at Peterskill. But, I probably can't get my partner on anything harder than about 5.6, so we could end up waiting at the Gunks for Belly Roll, Betty, Dennis, etc anyway.
2. Are there crags at Peterskill where there are a handful of easy lines close together? Seems like Bunkbed Wall could be a good choice.

There are a lot of routes you can do at the traps that go softer than 5.6. Are you leading, or just looking to walk up to set a TR?

Bunk Beds, Breakfast, Breaker and Blocky Walls.
Plus I like the idea of heading to Peterskill that is top-rope heaven versus tying up multi-pitch routes while top-roping them. Added bonus if not a Preserve member Peterskills is cheaper.

I totally agree that there are a lot of Trapps multipitch routes that you shouldn't tie up with TR, but I still think there are a bunch that are acceptable with a party of two (Dennis, Belly Roll, Jackie P1, Classic P1, Fingerlocks, etc).

I could lead or walk around. From what I understand it's faster to walk around at Peterskill.

Lots of good info here, thanks!

Find the bolts on Enterprise Wall. As long as you have LONG static Breakfast is full of awesome climbs - literally drop the rope!  Bolts on Reach Around is one of the best climbs in Peterskill. Psycho Crack is a bit harder but easy setup and good climbing - challenge you all day, and then hit the adjacent chimney which is really fun!  

Thanks Keith!

Matt Ritter wrote: 1. Is Peterskill a better idea than easy climbing at the Trapps? I don't want to spend too much time moving tree anchors around or waiting for large groups at Peterskill. But, I probably can't get my partner on anything harder than about 5.6, so we could end up waiting at the Gunks for Belly Roll, Betty, Dennis, etc anyway.

I'd make this decision based on whether you're leading or top roping, not based on crowds and waits. Waits are going to be about the same in the grades you're talking, given the current Trapps closures. If leading, go to the Trapps, if TRing, go to Peterskill.

2. Are there crags at Peterskill where there are a handful of easy lines close together? Seems like Bunkbed Wall could be a good choice.

Yes. Get there early if you want to get in before the guides on that wall, though.

To be honest, I wouldn't worry too much about stuff being close together. It's no more than a 15 minute walk from anywhere to anywhere at Peterskill.

Looking into Peterskill as well to take beginner outdoor climber on TR. I am very comfortable building anchors on bolts or off of trees, but a lot of the Peterskill climbs I see say "gear anchor only", which to me implies I need to have at least light trad rack (which I do not).

 Is there enough there that we could get on with 60 ft of static line, a bunch of slings, and a complete sport kit?

Ken Graf wrote: Looking into Peterskill as well to take beginner outdoor climber on TR. I am very comfortable building anchors on bolts or off of trees, but a lot of the Peterskill climbs I see say "gear anchor only", which to me implies I need to have at least light trad rack (which I do not).

 Is there enough there that we could get on with 60 ft of static line, a bunch of slings, and a complete sport kit?

I'd say about 2/3 of the popular routes can be done without trad gear. 60ft of static line is plenty. A few caveats:

1. I'd avoid the usual two-quickdraw sport anchor--the bolts here are poorly positioned for that. In most cases your draws' carabiners will be against the rock, where the gates could get pressed open. It's unlikely that they would come completely undone, but it's sketchy enough that I'd rather use some lockers.

2. Know the difference between pitch pines and white pines--pitch pines are endangered. Pitch pines have needles in groups of 3 (look closely), rougher/scragglier bark, and often have needles coming directly out of the trunk. If you're unsure, count the needles: groups of 3 are the most reliable identifier. I've heard mixed reports on whether you're allowed to anchor off pitch pines under park rules, but in any case, it's best to avoid anchoring off the vulnerable trees. Always use padding to protect any trees you anchor off.

3. When you're ready, a 6 piece set of tricams is all you need to build anchors at probably 90% of the places in Peterskill where gear is required, for a fraction of the price of a rack of cams. Tricams are just really well-suited to Gunks rock. Obviously don't do this if you don't know how to build anchors with gear.

Also feel free to PM me if you want someone to climb with; I've got the trad gear to set up TRs on anything and between Peterskill and the Trapps I'm in the Gunks about 5 days a week.

David Kerkeslager wrote:

Obviously don't do this if you don't know how to build anchors with gear.

... or set/place tricams, which aren't as straight forward IMO as other cams.

My understanding is that there's zero anchoring use of the pitch pines, but other trees and types of pine are fine (ideally use something between the rope/sling and tree bark, like a pillow case).

If you have slings you can clip/use most (all?) of the bolted anchors.  Quickdraws likely won't suffice as David explained.  Using locking biners the best practice, always.  I know it's common practice, and I'm guilty of using opposing quickdraws (non-locking biners) myself - but really you should (always?) use locking biners on an anchor whenever possible.

peterskill is better single pitch with a beginner. look up ‘identifying a dwarf pine’ to avoid building an anchor on this endangered tree. try to be gentle with trees you do use.

Kevin Heckeler wrote:

... or set/place tricams, which aren't as straight forward IMO as other cams.

Agreed. Perhaps I should have said, "Obviously don't risk your life doing anything that you don't know how to do."

My understanding is that there's zero anchoring use of the pitch pines, but other trees and types of pine are fine (ideally use something between the rope/sling and tree bark, like a pillow case).

Yeah, I haven't seen any official documentation of this and at least some of the park rangers seem to be under the impression that it's okay to anchor off any tree as long as you pad it. I still encourage people to avoid using pitch pines, as there's rarely a good reason to.

David Kerkeslager wrote:

Yeah, I haven't seen any official documentation of this and at least some of the park rangers seem to be under the impression that it's okay to anchor off any tree as long as you pad it. I still encourage people to avoid using pitch pines, as there's rarely a good reason to.

Give me a few minutes... we had a post here last year that clarifies the "pitch pine restriction" at PK. Bottom line - they're not totally off limits; just pad them as best you can, minimize walking around them (soil compaction is the real killer, seriously), and never pull a loaded rope around them (or any tree).

OP - you can be busy for a week or more at PK with your 60' static anchor rope. Have at it!

Thank you all very much; I may very well reach out to you, David!

Ken, there are plenty of great TR climbs in Peterskill, and I'd say it's definitely preferable to TR in the Trapps. You could do easy leads in the Trapps, but you'll almost definitely have to wait. In Peterskill, you should have no issue finding climbs at the level you're looking for without having to wait. I'd highly recommend the Gunks App guidebook, which will have more than enough climbs to keep you busy. On crowded days, just head all the way climbers-right (Hugh's Roof, East Pillar, the Tunnel) or all the way left (Khadejha) and you'll find climbs that are open. I find that only the boulderers seem to venture out that far (which is all of 10-15 minutes from the parking lot), and you don't see many people climbing trad or TR.There are several areas with a few climbs around 5.6 clustered together. In some cases, you can reuse your anchor for multiple climbs (with a bit of a swing if you fall, but totally manageable, like climbing on autobelay on the next route over), or you can place directionals above each climb and have a perfect anchor for multiple routes (though this would require pro).

As for the pitch pine rules, you can anchor on them, you just have to pad them (and every other tree in Minnewaska) and never ever pull a rope from around a tree. If you can't set up a rap without pulling rope around a tree, even unloaded, walk off. Stick to the trails, and avoid walking around the trees as much as possible, and nobody will give you trouble.

Great advice from everyone here; we got on Reach Around, Enterprise and Clam Shell and had a blast!