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Climbing near Gold Coast, Queensland

Original Post
Josh McAlister · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 120

I'll be traveling to the Gold Coast September 8-17 and I'm curious if anyone has beta on the local climbing. I know there's a great deal of bouldering on the beaches, but would prefer to rope up as well. I might have access to a car, so traveling in the vicinity is certainly a possibility.

Looking for information on local climbing shops, guidebooks, places to see etc. 

Mr Sean · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 0

Coolum is the obvious one. It is a bit of a specialized style and the grades aren't easy though:  https://www.thecrag.com/climbing/australia/mt-coolum  Bring your knee pads :)
Then there is Frog Buttress which is a couple of hours inland but great if you like trad and crack. It does get a bit warm but should be ok in early september:  https://www.thecrag.com/climbing/australia/frog-buttress
There is also Mount Tibrogargan which I don't know a great deal about but is popular up there: https://www.thecrag.com/climbing/australia/glasshouse-mountains/tibrogargan
And there is also Kangaroo Point in Brisbane which is a bit terrible really but better than a gym: https://www.thecrag.com/climbing/australia/kangaroo-point
And Flinders peak, which I don't know much about either: https://www.thecrag.com/climbing/australia/flinders-peak/area/11811415

Looking at your profile I imagine Frog Buttress would be best for you.

Mark E Dixon · · Possunt, nec posse videntur · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 984

We are taking a family trip to Queensland in June and I'm hoping to climb a bit, between beach and reef days.
Feel free to PM me later in the summer and I'll share whatever I discover.
We are headed north from Brisbane, so may not have too much to share about Gold Coast areas.

There is a guidebook for SE Queensland-
http://www.onsight.com.au/publications/se-queensland-climbing/

Kangaroo Point, in downtown Brisbane and Pages Pinnacle, accessed via Springbrook National Park, look to be the closest to the Gold Coast.
There may be crags in northern NSW too, for all I know.

David Jefferson · · Christchurch, NZ · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 20

Hey Josh, I'm American but my wife and I live in Brisbane. Before moving here we lived for many years in California and so I've climbed all over the American West as well as in many other parts of North America and around a dozen countries around the world. In this context, I really think that SE QLD is a great area for rock (i.e., definitely not alpine or ice) climbing. There are numerous crags within an hour or two of Brisbane/Gold Coast, including excellent rhyolite cracks (Frog), funky trachyte sport and trad multipitch (Tibro), steep sport at Flinders, Coolum, and Ninderry, granite slab and bouldering around Girraween, and sandstone at Brooyar. There's even some alpine-esque adventures to be had at Mt. Barney and Mt. Warning, aid at Beerwah, and urban cragging at Kangaroo Point. It's oppressive here in the summer, but in September you can climb pretty much anywhere and be guaranteed good conditions.

Feel free to PM me for more details and if you're looking for a partner when you arrive. I have a car, trad and sport rack, rope, etc.

Cheers!
David

Joseph DeGaetano · · Fayetteville, WV but curren… · Joined May 2008 · Points: 560

Hey fellas,

A little off topic but my family and I will also be touring around the South Island this June and July and I'm looking for advice on if and where I can rent a crashpad when I visit Castle and Flock Hill and what sport crags would be climbable that time of the year. For instance, is Paynes Ford worth going to in late June?

Any help is greatly appreciated,
Joe

frog pirate · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2018 · Points: 0
http://www.onsight.com.au/product/se-queensland-climbing-2018/

Frog is fantastic for trad. Tibro has some great sport/mixed/trad adventure multi pitch. Both are not what I would call close to the Gold Coast, but totally doable for a daytrip. The bouldering at Burleigh (Gold Coast beach) is very sharp rock and probably not worth your time unless you are desperate. Only go to Coolum or Flinders if you like really hard overhanging sport climbing. Brooyar is great for a camping weekend with lots of different crags, all sandstone, all a short drive from the campground, one walking distance from the campground.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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