Anybody used the evolv general?

Jaren Watson wrote:

Yes, I’ve had three pairs of Evolv shoes over the years, two pairs of the Pontas and one of something else—I don’t remember.

They were either a full size below street size (ridiculously painful) or half size below (somewhat painful).

I think I’ll go a half size up on the General. While I do want them for multi-pitch, the reality is I do around fifteen to twenty days of single pitch for every day in the mountains.

Thanks for sharing your experience.

I'd make sure to try them on first as even within the same brand, sizing is different.  In evolvs I've worn everything from a full size down to a half size up from street shoes all with a very similar fit and comfort level depending on the model.  

I would recommend half or full size up from street shoe. I am 10.5/11 street shoe, and 11.5 Generals work for me.

Señor Arroz wrote:

Cool review with great photos.

Thanks! I just got back from a week in Cochise. After using the General on runout pure friction slab, I was impressed. Part 2 of the review is forthcoming and will get posted here soon.

I was surprised to find that the shoes needed a resole after five thousand vertical feet. This seemed significantly sooner than TCP’s. Anyone else noticed the same? Granted, they got used in pretty high-wear applications: splitter off-fingers where I was cramming in as much toe as possible, heel-toe offwidths and coarse granite. It makes sense, since even the Trax XE rubber is softer than XS Edge, but it was a bummer to have to ship them back so soon.

Part 2 of the review:  sendersgamepodcast.com/2019…

Jaren Watson wrote:

Damn fine review!

Thanks a bunch! Dylan was kind enough to send me some offset TCP’s, so Part 3 is going to be a knife fight between the two, running side-by-side laps on some routes at the home crag here.

So far, if the shoes were the same price I’d choose the TCP for multipitch lines with granite edging and off-fingers, and Gennies for multipitches with slab and offwidth. Single pitches you could take a more specialized tool for any given application, though the General has  become my top choice for sandstone and granite offwidth.

Just received an 11.5 and 12 sizes of the Generals and I'm finding it difficult to decide. I'm looking for an all day multipitch fit. I wear street size 10.5, and have the Shamans in 11, which fit my foot shape perfectly. I can climb for maybe an hour with Shamans at most. Spoke with evolv on the phone and they recommended 11.5, but they still feel pretty tight and I don't know whether they will be comfortable enough after a few hours on a climb (my toes are slightly curled). The 12s definitely would be comfortable enough, but they feel a bit too loose (I can wiggle my toes and my heel is not super secure). I know synthetics don't stretch much, but if anyone can speak from experience with the Generals, it will be cool. How tight of a fit did you get, and how long can you wear them? Did they broke in a bit, or is the feel consistent with the beginning?

If I could I would just try them all day on a climb, but Moosejaw does not accept used returns...

Ven Popov wrote: Just received an 11.5 and 12 sizes of the Generals and I'm finding it difficult to decide. I'm looking for an all day multipitch fit. I wear street size 10.5, and have the Shamans in 11, which fit my foot shape perfectly. I can climb for maybe an hour with Shamans at most. Spoke with evolv on the phone and they recommended 11.5, but they still feel pretty tight and I don't know whether they will be comfortable enough after a few hours on a climb (my toes are slightly curled). The 12s definitely would be comfortable enough, but they feel a bit too loose (I can wiggle my toes and my heel is not super secure). I know synthetics don't stretch much, but if anyone can speak from experience with the Generals, it will be cool. How tight of a fit did you get, and how long can you wear them? Did they broke in a bit, or is the feel consistent with the beginning?

If I could I would just try them all day on a climb, but Moosejaw does not accept used returns...

They don’t stretch as much as TCP’s. I had Yosemite Bum stretch mine a half size with the resole. How much that actually resulted in a net increase in size or just counteracted the resole, I’m not sure, but they’re perfect now. The rubber is definitely stickier than XSEdge but not as long-lasting. I had to resole mine after only 5000 vertical feet, although much of that was finger cracks and  Cochise.

Ven Popov wrote: Just received an 11.5 and 12 sizes of the Generals and I'm finding it difficult to decide. I'm looking for an all day multipitch fit. I wear street size 10.5, and have the Shamans in 11, which fit my foot shape perfectly. I can climb for maybe an hour with Shamans at most. Spoke with evolv on the phone and they recommended 11.5, but they still feel pretty tight and I don't know whether they will be comfortable enough after a few hours on a climb (my toes are slightly curled). The 12s definitely would be comfortable enough, but they feel a bit too loose (I can wiggle my toes and my heel is not super secure). I know synthetics don't stretch much, but if anyone can speak from experience with the Generals, it will be cool. How tight of a fit did you get, and how long can you wear them? Did they broke in a bit, or is the feel consistent with the beginning?

If I could I would just try them all day on a climb, but Moosejaw does not accept used returns...

My street size is 10.5 and I got an 11, which is what size I wear in the supras and oracles as well.  They were tight at first but after wearing just once outside they stretched a bit and are much more comfy.  They are primarily leather so they will stretch a bit.  Go with the smaller size.

Good to know, thanks!

bkozak wrote:

My street size is 10.5 and I got an 11, which is what size I wear in the supras and oracles as well.  They were tight at first but after wearing just once outside they stretched a bit and are much more comfy.  They are primarily leather so they will stretch a bit.  Go with the smaller size.

I climbed all day at Seneca Rocks with them yesterday, 7 pitches, and the 11.5s were perfect! Loved climbing with them, perfect balance between comfort and performance for me

Yeah, and cheaper than the TCP as well. My next resole will probably be with Stealth because I like having the stickier rubber on the all-day pair and then XS Edge on my TCP’s which are tighter.

Part Three of SGP's review: https://sendersgamepodcast.com/2019/05/16/evolv-the-general-part-3-more-granite-cracks/ .

I chose them over the TCP to lead P1 of Journey Home, if that tells you anything. 

Jaren Watson wrote: Thorough review here for anyone considering the General.

I’m thinking of getting a pair but can’t decide between my street shoe size or a half size up.

Thank for posting this!

I overall LIKE my TC's but my heel never quite fit how I'd like. These might just be what I am looking for/my next shoe.

Got my Generals in March and am now about 30-40 pitches in between some Moab cracks, Shelf limestone, and CO granite. I'm loving them. All my partners are TCP owners and lovers and I don't blame them, but my hobbit foot just wouldn't do it. Looking for an all around shoe I went with the General and I have not been disappointed. I had worn evolv's before and my gym shoe is the Kronos, so I knew to size up to get the right fit. The thick toe and slight downturn has felt great on tiny slab holds, although in some Moab cracks it was a bit uncomfortable and sometimes painful. The ankle coverage saved some skin though while in Moab, but my TC partners could slip into some smaller cracks than me. I would recommend the Generals for anyone looking for an all around outdoor shoe to hit some tough vertical sport climbing, slabby face dancing, and full-day multi-pitch adventures. Sandstone cracks are more of a vacation/one time a year event probably for me, so I wouldn't be focusing my shoe around that. If you are, Generals might not be your best bet. Although they'll still work given the lack of high top alternatives. Price is great too.

I tried the generals and tc pros for a while. Turns out I'm really into my Miura Laces; the fit, edging and smearing is all there. I developed a pair of leather ankle pads that turned them into high tops which now makes them the best trad shoe I have. If its the high tops your after, I can make/sell a pair. j.bowen1529@gmail.com 

Justin Bowen wrote:

I tried the generals and tc pros for a while. Turns out I'm really into my Miura Laces; the fit, edging and smearing is all there. I developed a pair of leather ankle pads that turned them into high tops which now makes them the best trad shoe I have. If its the high tops your after, I can make/sell a pair. j.bowen1529@gmail.com 

That’s a great idea, especially since you don’t have to wear them if they won’t be needed on a climb (nice on a hot day or when you want the convenience of just putting on a low top). How does the elastic under your foot work with your climbing shoes?  Do you notice a difference in fit with vs without the ankle guards on?  Lastly how are they holding up, any pictures?

I can see these being a hit with certain climbers, especially the off width crowd.  

Hi Brian, 

You place them on before putting on your shoes. The leather ears are tucked inside the cuffs of your shoes so no elastic is exposed. Also, you can hardly feel the elastic band around your foot. It's quite comfortable. With the shoes I wear (Tenaya Masai, and Sportiva Muira laces and Katanas), I don't notice a difference in fit. Ive sold a dozen of them, and the only issues I've seen was their application with 510 Moccs. I was able to design a pair that worked for that climber and still waiting to get feedback from him. I'm out of town now, so I can't take any pictures of them, but I'll get some up soon. They held up for me great in Vedauwoo and the desert this last season! And this season will be underway soon!

Justin

Justin Bowen wrote:

Hi Brian, 

You place them on before putting on your shoes. The leather ears are tucked inside the cuffs of your shoes so no elastic is exposed. Also, you can hardly feel the elastic band around your foot. It's quite comfortable. With the shoes I wear (Tenaya Masai, and Sportiva Muira laces and Katanas), I don't notice a difference in fit. Ive sold a dozen of them, and the only issues I've seen was their application with 510 Moccs. I was able to design a pair that worked for that climber and still waiting to get feedback from him. I'm out of town now, so I can't take any pictures of them, but I'll get some up soon. They held up for me great in Vedauwoo and the desert this last season! And this season will be underway soon!

Justin

Oh man that is awesome that you have taken the time to make more of them to sell.  Having something handmade like that would be such an asset, especially when on a climbing trip where you’re going as many days in a row as possible.   To be able to have that kind of ankle coverage even if you don’t happen to like climbing in (or comfortably fit in) one of the high top climbing shoes that are available is really awesome.  Hell, I can see even wearing them along with a pair of TC Pros or Generals.  When you get back home it would be great to see some more pictures of the pairs you’ve made. 

I have brown, tan, black, and red in both M/L (men's 9 and up) and S/M (men's 8.5 and smaller). I can make them for xtra small feet too. They go at $30 a pair which includes shipping.