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preferred lightweight approach shoes?

Original Post
Kyle Elliott · · Granite falls · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 1,773

I'm looking to add a super lightweight approach shoe to the quiver, as all of my current pairs are bulkier or are a boot, aside from my pre-5.10 Adidas.  I would prefer mesh or something thin, packable, and a shoe I can climb in, with full sticky rubber (some of my shoes only have a sticky rubber toe).

TX2? scarpa iguana?

whats's your preference?

TaylorP · · Pump Haus, Sonora · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 0

Evolve Cruzer. I've been wearing them for about a year and I really liked them. Super light, but not as durable. I've had to re-sew the area by my right pinky toe on each shoe and the heels are really compressed now. But, if you are looking for a light shoe that climbs well, go for it (not to mention its the cheapest option)

Matt B · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2017 · Points: 472
TaylorP wrote: Evolve Cruzer. I've been wearing them for about a year and I really liked them. Super light, but not as durable. I've had to re-sew the area by my right pinky toe on each shoe and the heels are really compressed now. But, if you are looking for a light shoe that climbs well, go for it (not to mention its the cheapest option)

+1. These shoes are so sweet. I'm on my second pair, and I haven't had too much trouble with durability. I've put them through the ringer for over a year and a half (biking, daily life, weekly approaches/hikes, and some easy climbs) before needing to replace them.

Because they don't weigh very much, it's easy to clip them to your harness on multi pitch (or throw them in a backpack) so you can use them on the walk-down, preserving your precious climbing rubber and saving you money.
Kyle Elliott · · Granite falls · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 1,773

Wow, sub 7 ounces per shoe for the cruzer psyche and 7.7 for the classic. How is the fit?  I typically wear my approach shoes fairly snug. 

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 252

The TX2 is phenomenal.  Super sticky and light, plus they have a cool built in cord that you can use to clip the two together.

Jim T · · Colorado · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 469

A shoe with a bit more support, but a little heavier than the Evolv Cruzer, is the Evolve Zender.  Pretty happy with mine, although it is my first approach shoe so I don’t have much to compare to.

walmongr · · Gilbert AZ · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 151

When leaving my pack at the base and returning to it. My partner and I took a pair of Merell tetrex and had Resoled with dot rubber..these  are  super lights and very thin water shoes. Best part his fit just inside mine. I’ve done some long decents in them without issue.. Way better then carriering my TX-4’s which I love as an approach shoe. 

Steve Skarvinko · · SLC, UT · Joined Nov 2011 · Points: 25
Ted Pinson wrote: The TX2 is phenomenal.  Super sticky and light, plus they have a cool built in cord that you can use to clip the two together.

I have a pair of the TX2's and on my last walk off the elastic cord somehow came undone... when I got back to the car I noticed that I wore right through it. I kinda felt attaching them together using that was a bit annoying and prefer to rack them by the solid connection on the heel.

I got a pair of the Evolv Cruzer Slip-ons at outdoor retailer for super cheap as an impulse buy. I blew a hole in the heels after a couple months wearing them as street shoes daily. They do stretch a bit and not sure if the loose fit contributed to this? For the price, you can't go wrong w these (although I'd prefer the lace ups next time around).

I'd go for the Cruzers for quick walk offs, TX2 for longer ones.

 

Thue Madsen · · Alameda, CA · Joined Nov 2016 · Points: 267

I have a pair of Adidas Terrex SWIFT SOLO that I'm super happy with. I haven't had them all that long but they are really sticky and seem durable. You get a nice discount on them too if you are an AAC member.

Darren Mabe · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2002 · Points: 3,669

Scarpa Crux

Kyle Elliott · · Granite falls · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 1,773
Darren Mabe wrote: Scarpa Crux

The crux are a great looking shoe (and nice price) but much like the guide tennies, a little heavier/bulkier than I'd prefer. They are actually more in line with the type of shoe I prefer for an overall shoe. At the moment I'm in the market for the lightest, most packable shoe. 


I really like the idea of a water shoe with sticky rubber.  
Todd R · · Vansion · Joined May 2014 · Points: 56

I'd caution against the Scarpa Iguana. I had a pair for a couple of months and they climbed less well than any other approach shoe I've had. TX2's are phenomenal. 

Tomily ma · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 555

La sportiva swing. Hard to find but check eBay or whatever. A proper approach flip flop. More support but less protection than cruzer, which are also awesome but not as grippy. They climb great for flips and almost as good as Scarpa crux. 

Long Ranger · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 669

TX2's are so fucking sexy. I wear them to work, I wear them on 100 mile mountain bike rides. I wear them scrambling and in a pinch I can run a few hard miles in them. I wear them when i warm up at the gym. I wear them when I'm not climbing at the gym so I'm not that guy barefoot in the place you're not supposed to be barefoot because of all the crashing weights.

If I ever get married, I'll wear them to that, too.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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