La sportiva Testarossa vs Five Ten Dragons

Hello fellow climbers,

I would like some advice on the La Sportiva Testarossa or Five Ten Dragons.
At the moment, the La sportiva testarossa seems to be winning in favor mainly due to its durability, as well as not sacrificing sensitivity and performance from all the reading I have done. However I would like another opinion since Five Ten Dragon seems also very attractive due to its sensitivity and stick rubber, but unsure about its durability as I have heard mixed reviews.
I currently own a pair of Speedsters which have been fantastic, as well as a five ten hiangles, however the hiangle's durability is lacking significantly.
What do people think? I am mainly looking for durability and sensitivity, and a boulderer at heart, but I do participate in lead climbing frequently; also I'm not a powerful climber so technique is what will help me get up the wall, if that may play a factor in picking.

Cheers for all the input, and appreciate all perspectives.

Many Thanks,
B

Have you tried either of them on?  Fit is an important factor.  I haven’t worn Testarossas but I do own Dragons, and they’re fantastic.  Very aggressive, so they’ll probably be a better bouldering shoe than the Testarossas, which seem to be more of a hard sport shoe.  Extremely sensitive shoe - they’re designed for people who like to be able to feel what they’re standing on.
The heel on the Dragon is awesome...pretty much completely covered in rubber, and very thin/low volume (fits my foot like a glove), whereas the Testarossas have a bit of upper there that might not be as ideal for technical heel hooks.  I got them fairly recently so I can’t comment on durability, although I haven’t heard any complaints from long term users.  Overall they’re very similar shoes and both highly rated, so I’d say to see if you can try them on and go with what fits your foot.

Hi Ted,
Thanks for your input, I have tried the testarossa in store, but the dragons I have not since I don't have stores near where I live that sells them anymore.
What are you opinions on the La sportiva Miura VS? I generally do have narrow feet which is why I am looking into these shoes, but also in durability and sensitivity.
I'm trying to find the best- fitting shoe so I can just resole it when it wear through.

The Testarossa is a wonderful shoe in nearly every way. I have two pairs so I'm never without them. If they fit you, you will not be disappointed. Fitting tip: The laces closest to the toe come from the factory too tight (at least for me), try loosening them up significantly then snugging them up gradually. When you get them where you want, they will stay, as only the top 3 eyelets need to be loosened to get the shoes on.

The Scarpa Mago appears to be very similar, if you want another option. I don't know if the 2018 update is widely available yet.

I believe the Dragon is discontinued, at least temporarily.

Brandon Chu wrote: Hi Ted,
Thanks for your input, I have tried the testarossa in store, but the dragons I have not since I don't have stores near where I live that sells them anymore.
What are you opinions on the La sportiva Miura VS? I generally do have narrow feet which is why I am looking into these shoes, but also in durability and sensitivity.
I'm trying to find the best- fitting shoe so I can just resole it when it wear through.

The Miura VS would be a poor choice for you, then.  The toebox is fairly wide, and they’re about as sensitive as strapping cement blocks to your feet.  They’re also highly susceptible to rand damage due to the pointy and downturned toe, which is why almost everyone I see with Miuras has a blown out toe (especially in the gym).  That being said, they’re probably the best edging shoes on the planet (next to the Anasazi Blancos), but sensitivity and durability are their weakest points IMO.

Ted Pinson wrote:

The Miura VS would be a poor choice for you, then.  The toebox is fairly wide, and they’re about as sensitive as strapping cement blocks to your feet.  They’re also highly susceptible to rand damage due to the pointy and downturned toe, which is why almost everyone I see with Miuras has a blown out toe (especially in the gym).  That being said, they’re probably the best edging shoes on the planet (next to the Anasazi Blancos), but sensitivity and durability are their weakest points IMO.

Cheers Ted,  I was told the miuras had a greater durability because of its stiffer and denser rubber it uses. But since you seem to have experience in using it,  I'll take your word :)

 The testarossa  sound like my type of shoe then,  thanks for perspectives!

Ted Pinson wrote:

The Miura VS would be a poor choice for you, then.  The toebox is fairly wide, and they’re about as sensitive as strapping cement blocks to your feet.  They’re also highly susceptible to rand damage due to the pointy and downturned toe, which is why almost everyone I see with Miuras has a blown out toe (especially in the gym).  That being said, they’re probably the best edging shoes on the planet (next to the Anasazi Blancos), but sensitivity and durability are their weakest points IMO.

I disagree with fit and durability points here. The Miura toebox is pretty narrow and pointy, and the several pairs I have had seem to hold up quite well. Also, they resole well.

But I agree with the comments on performance. It is a stiff and insensitive shoe. Absolutely incredible for vertical to slightly overhanging edging. Perfect shoe for Smith or Tensleep. But not very sensitive, and not as "grabby" for steep terrain as the Dragons or Testarossas.  A very different niche; I'm not sure why one would cross-shop the Miura with those shoes. What niche would the OP be using them for?

The Miura VS is not a great gym shoe (too stiff, bad at toehooking).

Noah Yetter wrote: The Scarpa Mago appears to be very similar, if you want another option. I don't know if the 2018 update is widely available yet.

The Mago is similar is shape to the Testarossa, but is much, much stiffer under the toe. This changes the use of the shoe. The Mago is less effective than the Testarossa on steep grabby terrain, but performs better on thin edges on vertical to slightly overhanging terrain.

JCM wrote:

I disagree with fit and durability points here. The Miura toebox is pretty narrow and pointy, and the several pairs I have had seem to hold up quite well. Also, they resole well.

But I agree with the comments on performance. It is a stiff and insensitive shoe. Absolutely incredible for vertical to slightly overhanging edging. Perfect shoe for Smith or Tensleep. But not very sensitive, and not as "grabby" for steep terrain as the Dragons or Testarossas.  A very different niche; I'm not sure why one would cross-shop the Miura with those shoes. What niche would the OP be using them for?

The Miura VS is not a great gym shoe (too stiff, bad at toehooking).

It’s a weird shape...wide in the forefoot, then pointy in the toe.  They have a lot more room than a Dragon or even Anasazi, though, which are both significantly narrower for the same length.  LS actually recommends them as their “wide foot” option, whereas the lace is in the “narrow.”  I also agree that they are very durable if you use them properly (mine are over a year old and on their second sole and going great), but if you wear them in the gym regularly, the combination of a downturned and pointy toe will chew through the toebox in no time.

JCM wrote:What niche would the OP be using them for?

I'm mainly a hard gym climber, thinking about outdoor bouldering in the future, but from all the other opinions, it seems like the Miura vs would not last as long as the testarossa. Thanks for that!