Devil's Lake Climbing Incident

I came across Savannah’s interview on Power Company and was really moved by her courage to speak out about eating disorders in climbing and beyond. 

Her ambition to refocus her life and be a positive force was super inspiring and I‘d just like to offer my most sincere condolences to her family and friends.

Be aware of what you are posting and why you are posting it, and when in doubt respect people who are just learning about losing their friend and abstain from specific details. Best to have a seperate accident and analysis thread where the focus isn't split between discussion of a tragedy and technical details.

GDavis wrote:

Be aware of what you are posting and why you are posting it, and when in doubt respect people who are just learning about losing their friend and abstain from specific details. Best to have a seperate accident and analysis thread where the focus isn't split between discussion of a tragedy and technical details.

Yes I think that's a good call.  I find it hard to not debrief immediately, but you're right in that this probably isn't the place for that.   Here's to hoping her family and friends are able to find some of the support they need and, additionally, that we, as part of the climbing community it is clear she enjoyed so much, are able to rationally and respectfully discuss and learn from this extremely unfortunate incident.

Jack C. wrote:

Would it be insensitive for me to post more details? I have a friend who was a witness to the efforts of her party immediately after the incident who gave me a bit of information on what happened.

I don't think it would be insensitive as long as it's purely factual and not totally speculative. I think anyone would like to know how this happened.

It feels wrong to discuss details of a death but the details could prevent a future accident so just be pragmatic about it.

Woodchuck ATC wrote:

That's a BIG difference. Not an overhaning. slimy sided crack like Sometimes Crack is for protection.  Crux move is sort of low, not the easiest to protect well without some nice wires stuffed in the thin cracks. .  ( I can't picture or remember any good #2 Camalot or bigger cam spots down low)   Upper wall has some wide crack cams needed, but plenty of spots to stuff things in..  If leader fell from up there, there is a big ledge to hit on the way down too.   Just thinking out loud; not making any critique.  I think we all wonder about any climb, any falls, and how protection failed to hold. Its' a constant learning process for all of us, and a surprise when we hear of a serious injury/death at the park.  

Agreed. Both those climbs are sketchy leads but for different reasons. The cams on Sometimes never seemed solid to me regardless of how they went in. I specifically remember just top roping Birch Tree and exclaiming "That would be a little sketchy on lead".

It's a very sad accident.If the information is true about the type of protection that failed, again and in my own experience if protection pulls more often than not its cams.

Riley Gaines wrote:

Hello, I was the one that posted the reddit thread and I am planning on making a longer post. I would like to process my own emotions and respectfully describe the incident as I saw it. I see it mentioned about an accident report forum which I think could be beneficial. I guess I'm looking for advice on how to write about this in a respectful way. If anyone could point me to other accident report forums or other ways of respectfully providing the information I would appreciate it. Climb safe everyone.

Hi Riley, 

Thanks for attempting to be respectful. I don't feel the need to echo the great advice above. I also want to say thank you for trying to do what you could to help her. This is a trying time, and there's a lot of emotions to deal with. While writing it out may help, if you need an ear or what not please let me know. Witnessing a harrowing event, and taking part in it is no easy task, and people sometimes don't take the time to healthily process it all. Be well. Here if you need it.

I took my first trad lead fall on this same route, so this hits close to home.  In the midwest, the climbing community is smaller, and climbing accidents and reports that you read about online always seem so far away and almost unreal.  My heart goes out to this girl's friends and family.

My back channels are buzzing on this one. Hopefully someone who was there can shed the light themselves if they wish. This is hearsay but sounds like really bad luck on the landing, striking her neck/lower head on an edge.

Also, for those who aren't familiar with leading at DL here's what the guidebook says about it:

So sorry for the loss of that amazeing young lady. 

Bogdan P wrote:

The part in Tradiban's post's photo that talks about using crashpads at the lake is a new idea for me. I would never have considered it, but after this accident I might reconsider, especially on specific routes with low cruxes like birch tree crack.

In some circles use of crash pads would invalidate your ascent, not joking.

Tradiban wrote:

In some circles use of crash pads would invalidate your ascent, not joking.

Pretty weak, not the place to troll.....or joke.

Seth Jones wrote:

Not everyone cares about the opinions held by circles of pompous people, especially when the current conversation is about the loss of a life. 

Condolences to the friends, family, witnesses, and those who tried to help.

Perhaps the opinion of pompous people is unrelevent but the use of pads might be a good idea on certain routes. The use of pads might have prevented this.

@John Not a troll, just a fact. I think it sheds light on the mentality of some leaders at DL. Alot of "dangerous" leading occurs there but injury is rare and I don't think a death has occurred until now.

This whole thing is tragic but no amount of condolences is going to bring her back, so I suggest taking the time to think about indidents like this while climbing. i do. Preventing future death will honor the deceased.

I knew Savannah not as a close friend - but part of a circle of friends I climb with, trading laughs and frustrations on boulder projects and training plans and random bits of life. Climbing is not just the rocks and the movement, but the people you share that with- and we've lost part of that with her passing. I found her always to bring a brightness and style to the day. As a father of two kids, one of them a 10 year old girl, I had always hoped that when my daughter was a bit older that she could get a chance to know Savannah and learn from her - from the perspective she had growing up and confronting the loads of challenges that present themselves these days, and how she came through them as her own unique woman.  If you've not read her blogs, or heard her sing, or heard her on podcasts, or found her stoke on instagram or facebook posts I hope you get a chance to. In addition to the smiles and laughter, she inspired with strength- and the ability to tackle this world in a personal and powerful way. Though my daughter will not get a chance to have her as a role model and learn from her in person, I hope I can pass on a bit of that through the spirit Savannah has shared with us.  My heart goes out to her family, and to the wonderful, wonderful friends that were up there with her during such a difficult day.

Tradiban wrote:

Perhaps the opinion of pompous people is unrelevent but the use of pads might be a good idea on certain routes. The use of pads might have prevented this.

@John Not a troll, just a fact. I think it sheds light on the mentality of some leaders at DL. Alot of "dangerous" leading occurs there but injury is rare and I don't think a death has occurred until now.

This whole thing is tragic but no amount of condolences is going to bring her back, so I suggest taking the time to think about indidents like this while climbing. i do. Preventing future death will honor the deceased.

Start a new thread if you want to argue your point.

Right or wrong this isn't the place.

Show some respect to this young woman's family and memory.

John Barritt wrote:

Start a new thread if you want to argue your point.

Right or wrong this isn't the place.

Show some respect to this young woman's family and memory.

If you want to turn this thread into a stupid fight about what someone can and cannot say on the forums, then I'm game but that seems kinda pointless, don't ya think? I'm showing respect the way I see fit, you can show your respect the way you see fit. 

Bogdan P wrote:

The part in Tradiban's post's photo that talks about using crashpads at the lake is a new idea for me. I would never have considered it, but after this accident I might reconsider, especially on specific routes with low cruxes like birch tree crack.

I've never heard of crashpads being used these days for lead climbs.  Thought there was just a general increase in use due to the increase in bouldering    I'd imagine in past history, that climbers may have put empty packs and jackets on obstacles below routes.  Do hope that people don't  begin to think that having a pad is justifiable excuse for attemting any sketchy leads.  Might be popular among some, but doubt it has any worth as a growing, acceptable  daily DL practice,,,and don't think use or non- use of crash pads has anything to do with this sad incident.  Discuss it elsewhere on MP I'd suggest. 

I would like to know what happened.  It sounds like she took a lead fall and pulled some cams.  This can happen to experienced climbers as well as newbies and is something to bear in mind every time we put gear to rock.  

Kiri Namtvedt wrote:

I would like to know what happened.

I think a lot of us would.

However, I think it's wise to wait for a formal review instead of non-participants trying to figure it out here. The reddit thread linked above is a good example of why -- it's really hard to discuss things like this without hitting raw nerves. 

Everett wrote:

I think a lot of us would.

However, I think it's wise to wait for a formal review instead of non-participants trying to figure it out here. The reddit thread linked above is a good example of why -- it's really hard to discuss things like this without hitting raw nerves. 

What's this formal review you speak of?