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Back clipping while rappelling

Original Post
Alex Souza · · Bishop, CA · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 10

Headed to Thailand in a few weeks and many of the route descriptions describe needing to back clip while rappelling to reach the subsequent anchor on a multipitch climb due to the overhanging nature of many of the routes. 

Maybe this is a dumb question but I can’t seem to envision what this process looks like. Can someone shed some light on the best way to do this?

Appreciate the help. 

Pavel Burov · · Russia · Joined May 2013 · Points: 50

On rappel you clip both rope strands to every QD top to bottom to keep yourself close to the (overhanging) wall.

The routine is pretty simple. You rappel a bit lower the bolt, control the rappel line with your braking hand, grab the QD with your other hand, and with a bit of help of your core cross both strands thru the gate. Repeat as needed.

Try it on a vertical wall with fireman belay backup first.

Nick Niebuhr · · CO · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 465

It could be useful to back yourself up with a prusik too, sometimes it's easier if you can go hands free to clip the rope in.

Alex Souza · · Bishop, CA · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 10
Pavel Burov wrote:

On rappel you clip both rope strands to every QD top to bottom to keep yourself close to the (overhanging) wall.

The routine is pretty simple. You rappel a bit lower the bolt, control the rappel line with your braking hand, grab the QD with your other hand, and with a bit of help of your core cross both strands thru the gate. Repeat as needed.

Try it on a vertical wall with fireman belay backup first.

Great. That makes total sense. When the second rappels down and cleans the QDs is the tension of the rope running through them an issue at all?

Pavel Burov · · Russia · Joined May 2013 · Points: 50
Alex Souza wrote:

Great. That makes total sense. When the second rappels down and cleans the QDs is the tension of the rope running through them an issue at all?

The second is to rappel as well.

An advise on cleaning overhangs on when is lowering down. Reaching the second draw, clip to it in direct (clip a long draw in its rope end binner and in the harnesses belay loop, and receive some slack to hang on it), turn upside down, unclip the 1st draw and collect it, then take (really take), then collect the 2nd draw. Cleaning the 1st (sometime 2nd and so on) draw on overhangs could be dangerous.

The idea is to get off of the wall high enough to prevent hitting the ground.

Again, try it on a vertical wall first to get an idea how, and why, and when one should apply this trick.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Sport Climbing
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