Hestra Ergo Grip Outdry Gloves Review

I figured I would give my $0.02 on these gloves since there seems to be a lack of information on them and to hopefully save people from spending a nice chunk of change on these gloves.

I picked these gloves up in late October 2017 for the upcoming ice season.  I was looking for a waterproof glove with low volume and high dexterity for leads on ice.  A bit about my skills: Ive ice climbed for 4 seasons, climb/lead in the WI4 range, and rarely get on drytool/mixed routes (working there slowly).  I also used these gloves for backcountry touring.

The pros: Dexterity?  Check.  These gloves have exceptional dexterity and are great for picking around your overcrowded harness, handling/driving screws, building anchors, working biners, and clipping rope.  They truly are a waterproof glove, which is great for keeping hands dry when climbing ice in moderate/warm temps.  They worked in a surprisingly wide range of temps given the lack of insulation.  Ive used them while climbing in 0 F temps and while the hands were chilly, they never got ridiculously cold.  Naturally, after climbing, warmer gloves went on.

Cons: the only issue I can find, but it is a big issue, with these gloves is their durability. After 15 days of ice climbing and 15 days of backcountry touring, I have worn holes in almost every finger. I was diligent about applying glove balm to keep the leather is tip top shape.  When I questioned Hestra about this, they indicated that these gloves, which are part of their mountaineering category mind you, were not intended for gripping ice tools...seriously.  

Given that these gloves are close to $200 retail, and part of their mountaineering series, I would have expected better longevity than lasting all of 15 days on ice.  Again, these gloves fit amazing and climb super well, but if you get them, dont expect them to last more than a season.

Looks more to do with rope handeling then tool wear. Did you do lots of TR belaying and lowering with these. I could see that burning holes in them supper fast.

That is a good thought and definitely makes more sense than gripping tools and working screw gate lockers.

Rappin: yes, but always run an autoblock for a back up, so Im mainly gripping the friction hitch, not the rope.  TR belaying: not a ton.  If it was a super warm day then maybe I would belay in them.  I had warmer gloves I would use for belaying.  Most of the routes around me are also long enough to necessitate a top managed belay and rappin back down.