UL 4-season Alpine Tents: Rab Latok Summit vs. MSR Advance Pro 2

I'm comparing these tents and wondered if anyone has an opinion of either. The Rab has been around a bit and I've heard a lot of great things about it, but it's small. The MSR looks great and is bigger, but it's newer and I haven't heard much about it.

The BD tents aren't waterproof, the TNF tent is heavy and not waterproof, and the MH Direkt2 is discontinued, so I've narrowed my options down to these two - fully waterproof, light, and bomber.

Anyone have any thoughts?

Thanks!

I'm skeptical the MSR is actually waterproof, Rab summit was originally an Integral Designs tent, 10 year + proven design 

Check out Hilleberg!

Jon Rhoderick wrote:

I'm skeptical the MSR is actually waterproof, Rab summit was originally an Integral Designs tent, 10 year + proven design 

Good point for sure.

I read some good reviews about the MSR, but I'm skeptical as well.

climbing coastie wrote:

Check out Hilleberg!

Hilleberg definitely makes bomber tents, but I believe their lightest tent is still a full pound heavier than the Rab

I love my RAB Latok Mountain 2, which is like the big brother to your tent.  Climbed Rainier with a guy that had the summit, and it's really a glorified bivy.  If you're smaller-framed, and are okay with not a ton of headroom, it's a solid option.  Event breathes like a dream.

This video was pretty interesting to me   https://youtu.be/mJWGe2ShgR4?t=2m22s

The RAB is meant for very cold climates only. Highest performer for that purpose. Super duper bomber shelter, super lightweight, super tight for two. Vestibule is very large. Get the vestibule, too, if you go that route. Poor performance fabric in above-freezing temps. 

jkd159 wrote:

I'm 6'2" and barely fit in a winter bag in the Latok Mtn.  The summit bivy...you're probably right about the length/angle of the walls coming down.  I've owned the dragontail as well, totally different style of tent/application.  Roomy, but not as bomber.

Yeah, I definitely understand the space limitations and am not worried there. These tents fit a niche, but I think the weight savings of this versus a 6-8lb bomber 4-season expedition tent is huge. Plus, these tents are essentially 2p bivys, and weigh as much, or less than 2 4-season bivy bags...and provide more room/protection than 2 bivy bags. We have a TNF Mountain 25 for an expedition tent and looking to supplement it with a small, single-wall tent for bigger alpine routes.

I wish I could find both somewhere to see what they feel like in person. The MSR has a smaller footprint, but much more headroom with near-vertical walls, and the Rab has slightly larger footprint, but much lower headroom. So, it would be nice to see them in person.

Seriously may want to look at kuiu tents.  They are specialized hunting gear-great stuff.    Killer tents.  Spent some time In one hunting on the ak coast in crap conditions.    Absolutely sweet.  I actually may buy one despite $$$.  

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=8hEX5R761Xc

Another option.

Gipfel Kyra 2...  http://gipfelclimbing.com/product-category/camping-outdoors/tents/

Does anyone have links for reviews of Gipfel in general? It is tricky to find reviews online (at least when searching in English).

Chris Bamat wrote:

Hilleberg definitely makes bomber tents, but I believe their lightest tent is still a full pound heavier than the Rab

The Atko is just over a kilo, but is a single person tent. It's amazing.

Could you clarify? (I'm not sure I understood your comment)

Yep, I read their web description as well, however there aren't any public reviews available online that i could tell. Granted, the Dyra 2 has only been out a month, but their other tents seem to have been out a while.

David S wrote:

Reviews?  Here's a Gipfel to pass on:

Ah, by "a Gipfel to pass on" you meant "a Gipfel to not buy"; not "a Gipfel's information to pass on to you"

I assume the $10k is either (a) a temporary price to make sure nobody buys it while they sorted the final price out; or (b) in a different currency unit that a software bug didn't convert to USD for that tent. There is a low chance that it actually costs 10k ...

FYI to anyone curious, i asked to Gipfel to see what the Kyra 2 will cost: apparently ~$150 USD.

simplyput . wrote:

The Atko is just over a kilo, but is a single person tent. It's amazing.

True...but, it's "packed weight" is almost identical to the Rab (right around 3.2 lbs for a 1p vs. 2p).

These Gipfel tents look pretty decent, but I'll definitely pass on them for now until I can find some reviews and/or they've been tested for awhile. I just couldn't personally trust them on big climbs yet. That said, I'd love to take one for free to test here in Colorado - anyone from Gipfel reading? :)

Thanks for all the input everyone! The new-er MSR tents look sweet, but I've decided to go with the Rab Latok Summit.

Hey all - just in case anyone is interested, I ended up buying the Rab Latok Summit and it's perfect for what I wanted.

It's SUPER fast and easy to set up, bomber once it's up, and has an extremely light packed weight. My partner and I used it a couple times here in CO on training climbs, then on our attempt on Liberty Ridge in June as well as solo during our PNW trip just camping around between climbs.

The only con is the size. It is extremely cozy for two people and even a bit cramped for one. One person can fully sit up at a time since you need to be directly in the center of the tent - this makes it tough to gear up before getting out of the tent. But, the tent is super light, bomber, and fast to set up so those pros far outweigh the "luxury" of enough room to fully sit up inside. Haha.

Just thought I'd follow up with a bit of info in case it's helpful for anyone in the future. Super happy with the purchase - feel free to reach out if anyone ever has any questions!

Hi I've owned the Latok Summit and now own the Advance Pro 2, The summit was absolutely bomber and built out of burly materials. eVent generally works very well breathability wise and has been 100% watertight in Scottish rain conditions. The downside is some water running down the internal poles, the low peak height and short inner meaning it's 'cosy'.  Also on opening the door rain/snow will drop in the inner. I wouldn't recommend it for anyone over 6 foot (even then you'll probably have to sleep on the diagonal but you'll sleep safe knowing it will take anything mother nature throws at it.. The Advance is much easier to pitch and has much more head room though it's ideal for one again and just as short in length. The door peak and steeper wall means it's less likely to drop rain/snow in your inner which is good. It's not 100% waterproof out the box as it weeps water thru the guying points and the seam that runs across the front vent ( untaped). However since I silnet sealed it it's also been 100% waterproof. The fabric MSR use is not as breathable as eVent so condensation will be more of an issue, keep a cloth handy ! Hope it helps.

I have rab latok mountain 2 tent, the biggest problem I have with this tent  is that it is very very cold inside, i feel like there is no barrier between inside and outside tent because is very breathable. if outside temp is -10c, inside tent is likely to be -8 even when all the vents are close, i still get a condensation if the vent is close,  I used tent couple times in winter mountaineering in 3600 meter altitude, we camped at 3000.

Hi, guys -- I realize this thread is 4-5 years old, but I'm just about 6' tall (technically closer to 5' 11 3/4", esp. as I get older) which from all my reading is on the borderline for "too tall" for the Rab Latok Summit. 

Everything else about it fits what I want: Low wind profile, sturdy, light. I am looking for a shelter for 1-2 solo night climbs of glaciated volcanoes in the northwestern US. I already have a Mountain Hardwear Trango 2 for company. 

I was on Mount Hood recently with an MSR ultralight tarp tent (Front Range) and had to bail b/c there was no way that thing was surviving the wind. 

My real question is: How imperfect will the Latok Summit be for me, assuming I sleep diagonally, esp. with a big winter sleeping bag? Soaked head and feet? Is the pressure of those low-angle walls smooshing down my head and feet bearable? 

BD Eldorado seems like another option; length is great, but that's kind of in a different category.

Thanks for any help,

James