Shoe Comparison Question - Miura VS versus Miura VS Women's

I'm a fan of the Miura VS as an edging shoe on vertical to slightly overhanging terrain, and my current pair is pretty much worn out; time to replace them. I recently tried on the blue Miura VS Women's and found them to be a bit more comfortable and better fitting than the yellow Miura VS (men's) that I've been using. So I'm thinking about switching over the the blue Miuras. However, I'm wondering what the shoe performance tradeoffs are. The blue VS Women's has softer rubber (Grip instead of Edge), and perhaps a slightly softer midsole (not sure about this part)? How does this affect the performance? Is there a noticable loss in edging power? Interested in the opinions of those who have experience with both shoes.

I could see the softer rubber/shoe being advantageous for steeper, smoother rock with polished footholds (think Rifle or Chekamus), but how do the shoes compare on vert edgy stuff with sharp footholds (think Pet Wall (Squamish), Smith, Fins, etc.)? Is the softer rubber a disadvantage there? I probably wouldn't make the switch if there was a noticable loss of edging power in the blue VS? But if the shoe is a bit more comfortable and performs the same on vert, it would be worth switching.

For reference, intended application is mostly vertical to slightly overhanging granite and gneiss in Washington, plus occiasional trips to Smith. 5.12-5.13 range. Shoe choice seems to matter a lot for this stuff.

You will definitely have to place your foot a little differently to the rock which would take a little while to get used to. I wouldn’t say there’s a huge loss of edging power but you will need to apply the softer rubber a little differently to the edges. You should also expect less life out of the shoes as the softer rubber wears away a little faster. I personally say the deciding factor should be your weight. “Womens shoes” are soled in softer rubber because women are generally lighter. The softer rubber allows a 120lb lady to deform the rubber on a hold a similar amount that a much heavier man would deform xsedge on the same hold. If you weigh 150-160, I’d give it a try. Any heavier and I’d stick to what you know. 

I weigh ~140. 

Mike Byrnes wrote:

You will definitely have to place your foot a little differently to the rock. 

How so?

JCM wrote:

How so?

I find myself dropping my heel a little bit and using the inside edge of my foot in softer shoes, while when in stiffer shoes I find myself toeing down a little harder and climbing more in my outside edge. This could very well be different for different climbers on different types of rock but that. Is my experience. I’d say you should go for it and give um a try 

Even at 165 pounds, I find that XS Grip has adequate edging on butter knife crimps up to 5.13, and I prefer it for smears that do not have an edge. I tend to blow off crap slimpers significantly less in Grip, especially in cooler temps. In warmer temps, I find that Grip can seem to melt off some small holds more than Edge. Edge lasts significantly longer than Grip without needing a resole, if that’s a concern

The differences are fairly obvious and your intuitions seem correct. I have both shoes in size 43, and I weigh 195. The women's is significantly softer, and of course comes with softer/stickier rubber. I don't think of the women's model as an edging shoe at all, but at your weight it might be. IMO the Testarossa is a better compromise shoe -- soft midfoot, stiff forefoot, sticky rubber, perfect fit, comfy for how aggressive they are -- but it's my favorite shoe period so I'm biased.

Noah Yetter wrote:

Thanks, this is the sort of info I was looking for. I already have/use the Testarossa, and agree that it is a fantastic shoe that works on both edging and steeps. It is what I use whenever I want a softer shoe, including on most steeper rock. I use the Miura VS for longer pitches and the thin vert stuff when I need something stiffer and more supportive than the Testarossa (standing on little granite crystals, etc.). If the women's VS is more like the Testarossa in stiffness and edging performance, then it probably wouldn't be worth getting. 

May have to explore other options. For whatever reason the VS just started causing more toe pain last season than it had it the past. May be getting old...

FWIW, Testarossa is what Siegrist says he uses for steep, and TC Pro for edging. I thought of him, because he put up stuff like "Algorithm" at the Fins, and did stuff at Smith too. He is also not a big guy, so maybe close to the same weight.

I far as I can tell watching the FA vid, Algorithm is crimping and edging on tiny bits of invisibility, with a two fingertip pocket thrown in now and then for a break.

Sounds like perhaps your preferred style of climbing, though? ;-)

Best, OLH

JCM wrote:

Thanks, this is the sort of info I was looking for. I already have/use the Testarossa, and agree that it is a fantastic shoe that works on both edging and steeps. It is what I use whenever I want a softer shoe, including on most steeper rock. I use the Miura VS for longer pitches and the thin vert stuff when I need something stiffer and more supportive than the Testarossa (standing on little granite crystals, etc.). If the women's VS is more like the Testarossa in stiffness and edging performance, then it probably wouldn't be worth getting. 

May have to explore other options. For whatever reason the VS just started causing more toe pain last season than it had it the past. May be getting old...

As long as we’re getting into shoe suggestions in the seemingly endless climbing shoe market, I would suggest taking a look at the womens Kataki. It’s stiffer than the testarossa, ever so slightly less aggressive, and soled in xsgrip. They could be exactly what you’re looking for if they fit your foot