Crampons for rainier/Denali/glacial travel-petzl irvis hybrid-irvis hybrid feedback?

Looking ar getting the petzl Irvis hybrid with the steel toes and aluminum heels.  I have to many crampons so the issue isn’t having the right crampon, the issue is just to save weight.  Has anyone used these on colder, harder glacial ice?  In addition I’d like to use the version with out the toe bail and use the version with the heel bail.  

With the dyneema will they get tight enough so your actually confident in kicking toes in?  I am kind of guessing they wouldn’t be good on Denali due to the extended cold and abuse-what about shorter routes like the dc on rainier?  Thanks!!

So you already have a bunch.

Mix and match your steel front, steel bar, and aluminum back.

I mix my BD ones with the green colored camp aluminum backs.  

Works great if you already have, and want to save $$

Cor wrote:

So you already have a bunch.

Mix and match your steel front, steel bar, and aluminum back.

I mix my BD ones with the green colored camp aluminum backs.  

Works great if you already have, and want to save $$

Yeah I do the same thing.

It also allows me to build a retreat crampon with an aluminium front and steel back for security when bailing. 

yeah, and ive done that-but the aluminum pons i have are much taller than all the steel ones I own so id have a very tall heel.  In addition-I dont think mixmatching would still be as light as the petzl hybrids. 

+1 what Jordan said for Rainier. There’s enough exposed rock on the DC route that I wouldn’t feel comfortable with aluminum and just after the Cleaver you need good penetration on the angled snow over a significant drop with an ice fall below you. Don’t want to be second guessing your crampons then. 

One sees this question a lot!  (whether to use an aluminum or hybrid steel/aluminum crampon in mountaineering)

Don't do it!!  

Aluminum is great for ski mountaineering (i.e. where you are climbing up what you ski down) but not for big mountain mountaineering.

You can save the ounces elsewhere quite easily and its not worth the potential safety issues or the end of a big, expensive climb.

If you are using a guide service, I think they don't allow aluminum crampons.  The clever and rocky parts of the Muir snowfield would be tough on them.

Agreed with the comments about all-aluminum crampons, but the OP is asking about hybrid steel/aluminum crampons. I don't see why they wouldn't be suitable for a technically moderate route like the W Buttress of Denali. I've climbed the King Trench on Mt Logan using hybrid crampons (Camp XLC Nanotechs) and they worked fine. If anything the new Petzl Irvis would be more robust, because the entire front section is steel, not just the two front-points, and it’s regular steel, not stainless steel. 

Instead of worrying about saving a few ounces, spend that time training. West buttress is a fantastic route, made even better if you're fit enough to enjoy it.

I wore steel monopoints. They worked fine.

not sure on the toe bail vs wire bail thing.  With the full strap on style I have a hard time getting them to stay secure if I'm doing a lot of front pointing but that is wearing ski boots.  With mountaineering boots you may get a better fit.  

I own these crampons and really love them, 

sandrock wrote:

I own these crampons and really love them, 

Sweet!   Thanks.  Obviously training is essential but sometimes it’s not about training.  Sometimes it’s just about trying new gear because you want to. 

Gerrit Verbeek wrote:

Those are sweet.  Didn’t see them before.  Thanks.