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Karl Walters
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Feb 9, 2018
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San Diego
· Joined May 2017
· Points: 106
I currently own the Instinct VS, Scarpa Drago, and Scarpa Chimera. My Dragos and Instinct VS are wearing out and I am debating replacing them with something like a Booster S. I've used the Instinct VSR as well and wondered how the Booster S compares to the two Instinct models and perhaps the other Scarpa shoes I have used? I feel that the toe of the Instinct line feels more precise than the Drago or Chimera, although the sensitivity of both of those shoes is unrivaled and they perform extremely well bouldering or aggressive sport routes, however, they do wear quickly and I wonder if the Booster S/Boostic line might be the better middle ground for me. I tend to use the Instinct for edging and Yosemite granite and the softer shoes in the gym or for sandstone/friction dependent situatons.
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Baba Fats
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Feb 9, 2018
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Philadelphia, PA
· Joined Aug 2016
· Points: 0
I have both the instincts and booster s. I tend to use the instincts more often. The boosters are great for everything overhanging while bouldering. The soles are really soft, but have actually edged well for a few slab problems. Can’t speak for the chimeras or dragos. The only experience I have with the dragos was at a shoe demo, and I hated them. Had to take off at the top out of a 4 move problem because they hurt so badly. I’d recommend the boosters if you are looking for a slightly different performance over the instincts.
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NCD
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Feb 9, 2018
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Boulder, CO
· Joined Jan 2015
· Points: 50
I’ve had the Instinct VS for a few pairs including resoles with grip 2 rubber, have a pair of Dragos, and recently got a pair of Booster S when I got a got a great deal of $40 brand new. The S fits a little different than even the Boostic which I take out for certain vertical techy climbs. Boostics work well on Colorado granite, Ten Sleep, and even the New in WV but I use my Instinct VS for the majority of outdoor climbing. The Boosters are slightly higher volume and not as snug on top of the foot. I’m left with some extra fabric on top unlike the other Scarpa shoes. It’s a good middle ground shoe in stiffness between something like the Instinct VS and Drago. The Booster S is more versatile than the Dragos for sure. I think they would be a good compliment to the Instinct VS but unneeded if the Instinct VSR fits better. The Booster S shares a more asymmetric big toe power spot similar to the Boostic and Stix (hugely underrated Scarpa shoe that actually is really like a soft Boostic). if you have any specific questions let me know! I think the Booster S would be a killer indoors and training shoe and excel bouldering outdoors and steep sport climbing. The best thing about them is they are quite soft but still can edge and toe in on little holds wonderfully. They are up there with the highest performing shoes out there, it really comes down to fit and personal preference to make the final decision between a lot of these shoes in my opinion.
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FosterK
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Feb 9, 2018
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Edmonton, AB
· Joined Nov 2012
· Points: 67
I have a pair of the Boostics, and find it to be a stiff, insensitive, but power gym climbing shoe that can smear in a pinch. I suspect the Booster S will be a little more flexible but certainly it won't be very sensitive.
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Nick Drake
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Feb 9, 2018
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Kent, WA
· Joined Jan 2015
· Points: 651
FosterK wrote:I have a pair of the Boostics, and find it to be a stiff, insensitive, but power gym climbing shoe that can smear in a pinch. I suspect the Booster S will be a little more flexible but certainly it won't be very sensitive. Booster S is 3.5mm of grip2 vs. 4mm of edge on the boostic. That's a drastic difference in terms of sensitivity in my experience between the same rubbers on other shoe models.
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NCD
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Feb 9, 2018
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Boulder, CO
· Joined Jan 2015
· Points: 50
FosterK wrote:I have a pair of the Boostics, and find it to be a stiff, insensitive, but power gym climbing shoe that can smear in a pinch. I suspect the Booster S will be a little more flexible but certainly it won't be very sensitive. Actually the Booster S is quite sensitive, kind of like the La Sportiva Skwama or Futura. They are on completely opposite ends of the spectrum almost, the similarities are in the fit/construction not stiffness. To call a Booster a gym shoe is quite odd, that is about the last place they would ever be ideal.
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reboot
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Feb 9, 2018
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.
· Joined Jul 2006
· Points: 125
Boostic & Booster S have very similar toe box shape but otherwise climbs very differently. Boostic is the stiffest shoe in the Scarpa (& La Sportiva) line and Booster S used to be one of the softest until Furia/Drago/Chimera came along. Booster S will be a touch stiffer than Furia/Drago/Chimera but I'm not sure it'll make enough difference; it'll climb differently than Instinct VS/VSR. For me, it works really well in its strength, but is much less versatile than Instinct VS/VSR. My 2 big issues w/ Booster S (probably the same for Furia/Drago/Chimera): 1. Hard to backstep on small footholds (a bit too soft/high volume to trust the outside edge) 2. Hard to toe-in on a hold underneath a roof (the high volume toe box tend to bump against the roof, limiting ankle articulation).
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NCD
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Feb 9, 2018
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Boulder, CO
· Joined Jan 2015
· Points: 50
Nick Drake wrote:Booster S is 3.5mm of grip2 vs. 4mm of edge on the boostic. That's a drastic difference in terms of sensitivity in my experience between the same rubbers on other shoe models. Totally, and not just the rubber type but the midsole construction too plays a huge part. The Booster S is a stripped down super lightweight construction shoe all over. The Micofiber upper is quite thin unlike the beefy feel of the Booster. The split sole, thin midsole, and flexible upper combined all let the shoes flex naturally with your foot.
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Karl Walters
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Feb 9, 2018
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San Diego
· Joined May 2017
· Points: 106
NCD wrote:I’ve had the Instinct VS for a few pairs including resoles with grip 2 rubber, have a pair of Dragos, and recently got a pair of Booster S when I got a got a great deal of $40 brand new. The S fits a little different than even the Boostic which I take out for certain vertical techy climbs. Boostics work well on Colorado granite, Ten Sleep, and even the New in WV but I use my Instinct VS for the majority of outdoor climbing. The Boosters are slightly higher volume and not as snug on top of the foot. I’m left with some extra fabric on top unlike the other Scarpa shoes. It’s a good middle ground shoe in stiffness between something like the Instinct VS and Drago. The Booster S is more versatile than the Dragos for sure. I think they would be a good compliment to the Instinct VS but unneeded if the Instinct VSR fits better. The Booster S shares a more asymmetric big toe power spot similar to the Boostic and Stix (hugely underrated Scarpa shoe that actually is really like a soft Boostic). if you have any specific questions let me know! I think the Booster S would be a killer indoors and training shoe and excel bouldering outdoors and steep sport climbing. The best thing about them is they are quite soft but still can edge and toe in on little holds wonderfully. They are up there with the highest performing shoes out there, it really comes down to fit and personal preference to make the final decision between a lot of these shoes in my opinion. Thanks! To be more detailed here are my pros and cons of the shoes I have tried: Instinct VS- Great supportive and powerful shoe. If I place the toe it usually sticks and provides a great platform. I've used it on Yosemite granite, limestone, gym, etc. Normally now I bring it for lead/sport days or to the crag in case I need to really power off a shitty edge. Only con is that they are super stiff and don't smear that well and don't do well on some plastic. Instinct VSR- Sized them a tad too big and they became floppy and unsupportive so I can't comment a ton. Drago- I've gotten more sends on this shoe than anything I've used. Used them in Red Rocks and all over Nor cal. The soft sole has it's limits, but I find that they don't edge all that bad for a soft shoe. They are not too powerful and not the best for really precise edging I would say. They also wear fairly quick and stretch a lot. Didn't enjoy them in Yosemite recently, but my pair could be on their last limbs. Chimera- It is like a Drago, but stiffer. The main con is the tension band can dig into the achilles while heel hooking and it's not quite as sensitive as the Drago or as Precise as the Instinct, but it's both fairly well rounded. Great sport shoe since it's so well-rounded. Probably the do-it-all shoe. Great in the gym and I like it on roofs more than the Drago for some reason. Not the best on limestone, I tend to leave them at home since I always have room for 2 shoes and just bring a Drago and Instinct. Fit wise all Scarpa shoes fit me. I have a weird bunyon on my ring finger toe on one foot that always flares up, moreso with the Instincts. I do really like the precision of the Instinct- it reminds me of the Five Ten Dragon. You put it on something and it feels solid. Heel hooks well and I think its marginally better in toe hoes than the Chimera (which seems to be harder for my foot to bend into a toe hook, Drago is stiff enough it works. I was thinking that maybe the slight difference in fit of the Booster S/Boostic line and the big toe precision could be what I am looking for.
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michalm
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Feb 21, 2018
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jun 2014
· Points: 824
Hey Karsten, reboot explained the difference between these two shoes pretty well, but I will provide a few details that you might find useful. The last of the Instinct and the Booster and Boostic is totally different in terms of symmetry/asymmetry. If you draw a line straight back from the tip of your big toe and it ends up around your heel's centerline, the Instinct will fit you better because the shape of your foot is fairly symmetrical. This is especially the case if your big toe is bent in towards the centerline because you have a big toe bunion. If you draw a line straight back from your big toe and it ends up towards the arch (inside) of your foot, your foot shape is assymmetrical and the Booster and Boostic will fit your better. They have a big toe is offset inward from the heel and runs straight front-to-back instead of being bent inward. This fits the shape of my foot well since I don't have a big toe bunion. Although the Booster and Boostic are similarly asymmetrical, the Boostic is a wider shoe. It has a slightly slower taper from the big toe to the little toes and works better for my longer toes. It also has less volume in the toebox than the Booster. However, despite the similar shape, these shoes couldn't be much more different in terms of climbing characteristics: The Boostic is a stiff edging shoe. It has a half-length, stiff midsole, tensioning system, and a full-length sole. It is not the most sensitive but can edge on a credit card if you size it snugly. With that said, it is surprisingly sensitive for how well it edges, much more so than the TC Pro. I prefer this shoe for granite, edgy limestone, and anything less than vertical to slightly overhanging with small footholds that require precise edging or smedging. It is much stiffer and much more supportive than the Instinct VS. There are routes that I couldn't have a chance to do in the VS that feel easy in the Boostics. The Booster is a soft shoe. It has a 1/3-length sole with a minimal midsole and a tensioning system. It won't edge well unless you size it pretty tight. Same size or 1/2 size down as the tightest Boostics I can wear. Because it is a bit narrower, my smaller toes are more bent than in the Boostic, but it is pretty soft and comfortable. The strength of this shoe is considerable power and precision from the big toe while being very soft, sensitive, and generally unsupportive. The Booster is a great shoe for bouldering, smears, and smedges. It feels pretty secure on shitty, glassy footholds. If you are looking for an all-around shoe and aren't doing any micro edging slab, the Instinct VS might still be your best option overall. The VSR feels much softer than the VS, if a more sensitive shoe with the same fit is what you are after. I personally prefer the Boostic for thin edging and the Instinct S for bouldering. I am still testing the Booster S, but I think it will be good for steep, smeary sport.
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Karl Walters
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Feb 22, 2018
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San Diego
· Joined May 2017
· Points: 106
Thanks! I actually already own the Drago (mainly gym shoe), Instinct VS, Chimera, and Furia S. Of all of those the fit is pretty solid, with it best in the "Soft" line. The Drago edges and climbs really well for it's softness and if I don't use it then I will use the VS for now. I ordered the Boostic and Booster S in the same size as my other Scarpas and found that the Booster S kinda felt very similar to the Chimera. So similar it didn't make much sense to keep. Both have the same big toe pushing/pulling power, but the Chimera seems to have a better heel for me and smeared better. An evolution of the Booster S. I could get my foot into the Boostic using a plastic bag. It obviously felt more powerful, but much more painful on my outer foot. It's a specialized shoe for sure, but to the point where breaking it in and persisting would require a very specific use case that my current shoes can't yet solve. If I have a project or start doing a lot of climbing where it becomes paramount I'd definitely use it.
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michalm
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Feb 22, 2018
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jun 2014
· Points: 824
Try sizing the Boostic up. The smallest I wear it is my street shoe size. It is a stiff shoe so it doesn't need to be so tight to perform well. It is actually very comfortable if sized correctly.
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Karl Walters
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Feb 22, 2018
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San Diego
· Joined May 2017
· Points: 106
Ya the next step is to go up .5 to a full size and start there. Thanks!
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pfinnegan
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Feb 21, 2019
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Boulder, CO
· Joined May 2004
· Points: 65
How to size between Boostic and Instinct VS?
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Karl Walters
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Feb 22, 2019
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San Diego
· Joined May 2017
· Points: 106
Same. If you're a 41.5 I have both for sale too.
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michalm
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Feb 22, 2019
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jun 2014
· Points: 824
My tighest Boostics are 42-42.5, and my tightest Instinct VS are 41. I find the VS is wider in the metatarsals and stretches when you first try it on and has a lot more give than the stiff Boostic. You really want to size the VS tight to get the toe power you want out of it, just make sure it isn't painful. My street shoes size is 42.5 for reference and my forefoot is quite wide. My friend wears a 43 street shoe and wears 41.5 in both for a tight, single-pitch size. It is a matter of foot shape and preference.
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pfinnegan
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Feb 22, 2019
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Boulder, CO
· Joined May 2004
· Points: 65
Thanks guys. I bought the Boostics in 40.5 and love them. Walked around and climbed around in-store in 40s without crazy discomfort and could probably live with 40s. But I feel like I’m climbing at my limit in the 40.5s and so conclude that I didn’t blow it.
However it seems like maybe 40 might be something to consider for Instincts.
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Karl Walters
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Feb 22, 2019
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San Diego
· Joined May 2017
· Points: 106
Boostics don't need to be downsized as much. Most people I know wear them 1 full Euro size more. I would size down that much at least.
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