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Must do easy/moderate routes in Yosemite

Original Post
Sam Root · · Boise, ID · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 122

I'm starting the beginning stages of a road trip around the west for this summer and the last stop is in Yosemite! What are some of your guys favorite easy to moderate routes you have done there?? Anything up to low 10's is good to go! No big wall climbs or anything, just day long multi pitch routes.

Thanks!

Anonymous · · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 0

Some 500-600ft climbs here that would all fit what your looking for I think.

https://www.mountainproject.com/area/105833498/manure-pile-buttress-aka-ranger-rock

Royal arches is a fun long relaxing route (only 1 pitch is 5.10 if you don't do the swing)

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105862881/royal-arches

Fail Falling · · @failfalling - Oakland, Ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 916

Freeblast with the slab section and roof pitch on pitch 2/3 done as A0 is probably one of my favorites 

Tomko · · SANTA CLARA CA · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 20

There are so many good options for you in the valley:

Super Slide (totally underrated)

Royal Arches

Central Pillar of Frenzy

Absolutely Free

E. Butt of Middle Cathedral

Cathedral Spires (I've not done these myself, but I hear good things)

Snake Dike

And some up in Tuolumne or nearby:

Red Dihedral on the Incredible Hulk

Third Pillar of Dana

West Crack of DAFF

Regular Route on Fairview

Tuolumne Triple (Tenaya, Matthes, Cathedral)

And so many more!

WoodyW · · Alaska · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 70

Center pillar of frenzy on middle cathedral is a great one! 

Suburban Roadside · · Abovetraffic on Hudson · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 2,419
kevin deweese wrote:

Freeblast with the slab section and roof pitch on pitch 2/3 done as A0 is probably one of my favorites 

if you are up to the start(or can cheat it) Serenity Crack with  "KingTUT"'s Sons of Yesterday,( )

(Green Dragon, )To get To Mr Natural

Fail Falling · · @failfalling - Oakland, Ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 916
Michael Schneider wrote:

if you are up to the start(or can cheat it) Serenity Crack with  "KingTUT"'s Sons of Yesterday,( )

Holy Crap, how could I have forgotten Serenity Sons! despite the crowds, just an amazing half day this link up is! Don't let the 10d rating scare you away, it's only one section that's about 10-20' that you can pull through or rest on small gear. The rest of the climb is just glory 10a and 5.9 splitters to (almost) the top of the wall. Plus there's a new rapp route put in last year by Clint Cummins that allows you to avoid the hordes going up while you're part of the hordes going down.

This climb, royal arches, freeblast, and east butt of middle cathedral are the climbs I've come back to over and over in the last two decades (probably at least 6-10 times each)

(nutcracker and after six are up there in terms of amount of times I've done them, but more for taking other people up it rather than actually enjoying the climb)

Fail Falling · · @failfalling - Oakland, Ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 916

And it should be said, Snake Dike is a cool interesting climb that I've only done once because of the long approach and rather meh climbing, and you'd def want to measure whether the full+ day of approaching and descending is worth the opportunity costs of other climbs, but if you're capping off your road trip with Yosemite, Snake Dike gets you to the top of Half Dome along with all the bragging rights and cool pictures that road trips are made of. 

Suburban Roadside · · Abovetraffic on Hudson · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 2,419

Hey Kev !  I  ah yes so many to chose from - Braille Book-& Munginnella ,  After Six &  hoHo ANYTHING AT ARCH ROCK ,(Yeah, Above The Pay Grade But)The Nutcracker for its historic nature but unless you keep going & going , it is over rated and to polished.

Jake wander · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 195

SE buttress of cathedral peak in tuolumne. such a great climb/summit (on a weekday). also gets you out of the crowds of the valley. we werent even able to park in the valley.

Jacob Bretz · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 45

If you get to ranger rock and Nutcracker and After Six are totally swamped (like they usually are), CS Concerto is another excellent route

S Perry · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 221

Braille Book and Commitment are good too.  If you are there in the summer you definitely need to get up to Tuolumne for Cathedral Peak. Though it is easy, it's got to be one of the most beautiful climbs in the world.

John Clark · · Sierras · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 1,398

If you get out there before 10, you'll have manure pile to yourself in winter. Ran 4 laps on it before i hit traffic last sunday morning.

King Tut · · Citrus Heights · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 430

Summer is Tuolumne. 

Plenty of mega-do must-classic moderates there.

stephen arsenault · · Wolfeboro, NH · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 67
TaylorP · · Pump Haus, Sonora · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 0

Hijacking this thread....I'm heading to the Valley for the first time next weekend. I know it's going to be swamped for Presidents day weekend...but looking for beta on which of the above climbs are doable in winter. Thanks!

Chris Re · · Boise, ID · Joined Apr 2003 · Points: 15

If you are going to Yosemite in summer, do not stay or climb in Valley. Stay and Climb in TM, everything is great . 

Two quick recommendations -> On the Lamb, OZ

rafael · · Berkeley, CA · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 35

much of summer will be hot as hell in the valley. so southside crags, or early/late sessions are key. But like everyone says, tuolumne is right there and has lots of great rock. Cathedal peak is one of the coolest summits around, and its easy to the top. If you can, hit it during the week, as its popular with the type of climber who doesnt know how to not drop gear/kick down rocks/place gear/belay

King Tut · · Citrus Heights · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 430

Winter, just climb in the sun (North side, South facing).

Fail Falling · · @failfalling - Oakland, Ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 916
TaylorP wrote:

Hijacking this thread....I'm heading to the Valley for the first time next weekend. I know it's going to be swamped for Presidents day weekend...but looking for beta on which of the above climbs are doable in winter. Thanks!

Right now there's no snow in the valley and the daytime temps are downright warm. Every single route is available (except for anything covered by the bird nesting closures and a bit of water on Royal Arches.) Snake Dike is doable even though there is a bit of snow on the top and the cables will be down requiring rapping. 

Anonymous · · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 0
kevin deweese wrote:

Right now there's no snow in the valley and the daytime temps are downright warm. Every single route is available (except for anything covered by the bird nesting closures and a bit of water on Royal Arches.) Snake Dike is doable even though there is a bit of snow on the top and the cables will be down requiring rapping. 

You don't need to rappel the cables are always up only the wooden steps and polls are taken down meaning you can still use the cables to walk down with a safety leash on it (or without like I have seen others do). I guess similar to rapping but not the same.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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