Summit Packs on Expeditions

So has anyone ever considered carrying a small summit alpine pack in their pack? So when your on a big mountain expedition and are carrying a 75 L pack it’s usually just way to big for the summit bid. I always feel like it’s flopping around empty on my bag. But I need it to carry my crampons (until I need them), or a belay jacket, or hard shell in case the weather goes bad, or to hold layers if I’m stripping them. 

So my thought was carry very light pack (Arc’teryx Alpha FL or HyperLight Summit Pack) inside my pack on the way up. Use it as a dry bag during the trek, stuff the sleeping bag or tent. Then on summit day use it a small comfortable pack for the bid. 

Just add compression straps to your bag? 

Greg Shea wrote:

Just add compression straps to your bag? 

True, more thinking how crampons/ice tools/rope don’t tend to stay on so well unless the bag is full

Freely admit this is a bit of a crazy idea just wanted to hear thoughts 

Oh, I sometimes just use pick protectors and a light crampon bag and just throw them in my big bag

Depending on what your willing to spend the wild things adinista pack is like 90 litters and thrn uses zippers to fold itself into a 50 L pack

Age old problem my friend. Lowe Alpine use to make a compression sack that doubled as a summit pack. I am sure there is something like that still on the market. Try to find one with a little hip belt as you will for sure over load it and the hip strap helps keep it stable.

Michael S. Catlett wrote:

Age old problem my friend. 

Well this makes me feel better, I’m not the only one thinking it. 

Greg Shea wrote:

Depending on what your willing to spend the wild things adinista pack is like 90 litters and thrn uses zippers to fold itself into a 50 L pack

I started using AARN pack/body pack when in Australia and love them so much I refuse to wear anything else (for extended trips). The balance and comfort is out of this world 

That's a cool design I've never seen that, does the front work as an independent backpack?

Greg Shea wrote:

That's a cool design I've never seen that, does the front work as an independent backpack?

In theory but not in practice. Check them out they are great

http://aarn-usa.com

Parker Cunneen wrote:

So has anyone ever considered carrying a small summit alpine pack in their pack? So when your on a big mountain expedition and are carrying a 75 L pack it’s usually just way to big for the summit bid. I always feel like it’s flopping around empty on my bag. But I need it to carry my crampons (until I need them), or a belay jacket, or hard shell in case the weather goes bad, or to hold layers if I’m stripping them. 

So my thought was carry very light pack (Arc’teryx Alpha FL or HyperLight Summit Pack) inside my pack on the way up. Use it as a dry bag during the trek, stuff the sleeping bag or tent. Then on summit day use it a small comfortable pack for the bid. 

I've been doing this for fifty years, in  the context of back-country rock-climbing trips.  Big pack needed to walk in with, but the big pack is way too cumbersome for rock-climbing.  Most recently I've been using the Arctryrex FL 30 as a summit pack, which works well as a dry bag on the approach, weighs about a pound and a quarter, and is a good size for a single pack carried by the second in a party of two.

Your posts suggest you're planning a Denali trip. My recommendation is to study the mountain and the reasons why bad situations turn deadly. Consider carefully how your team should be equipped for a summit bid. Then consider your own personal gear and the amount of space heavy insulation occupies. Your pack may be more full than you expect.

Do you really want to carry an extra pack for 3 weeks, and especially as you move from 14-17?

diepj wrote:

Your posts suggest you're planning a Denali trip. 

nope, this was really just a general mountain question. I sure am planning one in the next 2-3 years but this was not directed there.  Many more mountains between now and then I may apply this two.  In fact I think I would be easier to do on Denali most of the trip since I will have a sled

Chouinard was making summit packs in the 80s:

Today there are ultralight packs like these which I use: http://www.blueice.com/us/en/packs/77-dragonfly-18l-pack.html

Parker Cunneen wrote:

True, more thinking how crampons/ice tools/rope don’t tend to stay on so well unless the bag is full

Toss them into the pack. I rarely strap things to my pack. Much easier when you need to move.

In winter I will sometimes bring a summit pack (20 liter sack) but usually my partner and I split the difference, one of us carries a strippable, lightweight 40L and the other carries the big 50 liter and then we just use the smaller pack for the summit day.

Your day to day pack is going to be so heavy that you won't even notice it on summit day after you have packed it with just the basics.

If more of a general question I'd say it depends. The first thing I do is try to make sure I don't need a huge exped pack if at all possible. If it is needed it then becomes a question of the objective. Is it truly basecamp style or is a carryover involved? I try to stay flexible about that in case the situation dictates a change of route or tactic. If the climbing is easy I'll just deal with the huge pack. If it is close to my limit is the only time I would consider taking a separate pack. If you're looking at a base camp crag situation maybe you can manage with no pack or maybe 1 pack carried by the follower. 

Jeremy Cote wrote:

Your day to day pack is going to be so heavy that you won't even notice it on summit day after you have packed it with just the basics.

I’ve carried enough heavy packs up mountains to know it will be light but that’s not the problem. The problem is it’s too large, flops about, and less functional.

If you're just going up one mountain carrying two backpacks seems kinda pointless. If you originally purchase a bag that fits well and compresses when mostly empty the floppy problem is solved. 

If you're base camping in an area and doing a couple of climbs I think the idea has merit. I've carried a smaller backpack in for things like the Bugaboos but never considered it for a single mountaineering objective. 

Parker Cunneen wrote:

I’ve carried enough heavy packs up mountains to know it will be light but that’s not the problem. The problem is it’s too large, flops about, and less functional.

If it is too large and flops about when lightly loaded then something is wrong. If your pack is fitted properly it should be comfortable at carrying any load. My 110L Xenith works perfectly carrying 75lbs or 10lbs.