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Longest Multi-pitch in the world

Original Post
Iain Macdonald · · Bay Area · Joined Dec 2015 · Points: 715

Tickle my fancy, whats the longest multipitch climb in the world?

Alexander Blum · · Livermore, CA · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 143

Rupal face of Naga Parbat could be the answer, but this isn't a very well-posed question. 

Dead Head · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2017 · Points: 65

I think it might be eternal flame on the nameless tower in Pakistan 

Muscrat · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 3,625

The one you spend in a hanging belay on in a t-shirt because you totally pooched it and...you get the idea.

Matt Miccioli · · Lander, WY · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 1,896

Azeem Ridge on Great Trango is another contender.

Dan Knisell · · MA · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 6,412

This won’t exactly answer your question but I believe that Time Wave Zero in Mexico is the second longest sport multipitch in the world. 

David Coley · · UK · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 70

Well this one of mine is quite long at 67 pitches, although it could be climbed in half that number of pitches:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item/69926/new_1278m_long_route_in_uk

as it is only 5.10 (or 5.9 if you stand in the odd sling), I guess most people on Mountain Project could do it. Why not pop over and grab the second ascent? Fame awaits, and the beer in the local pub (the Square and Compass) is second to none. It was climbed in winter. I even know a keen photographer wanting to capture the second ascent.

Anonymous · · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 0
David Coley wrote:

Well this one of mine is quite long at 67 pitches, although it could be climbed in half that number of pitches:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item/69926/new_1278m_long_route_in_uk

as it is only 5.10 (or 5.9 if you stand in the odd sling), I guess most people on Mountain Project could do it. Why not pop over and grab the second ascent? Fame awaits, and the beer in the local pub (the Square and Compass) is second to none. It was climbed in winter. I even know a keen photographer wanting to capture the second ascent.

Well if you are talking about a traverse climb you can make up whatever you want. For longest multi-pitch that isn't contrived I would say it should be more about height and climbing up.

Jake G · · Maryland · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 10

Seneca WV traverse lol. A few guys did it awhile back and made a movie called Almost Alpine.

Mike Womack · · Orcutt, CA · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 2,015

Trango towers in Pakistan is something like 5,000 ft tall.   Tehipite dome in CA is about 4,000 ft tall

Nick Sweeney · · Spokane, WA · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 987

Nothing listed so far is even close to the Rupal Face of Naga Parbat - that thing is 4100m tall! 

Grey Satterfield · · Broomfield · Joined Nov 2011 · Points: 10
MojoMonkey · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2009 · Points: 66
Jordan Whitley · · NC · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 240
Nick Sweeney wrote:

Nothing listed so far is even close to the Rupal Face of Naga Parbat - that thing is 4100m tall! 

The Rupal Face is it.... It's the biggest mountain face in the world. 15,000ft of prominence. 

Alexander Blum · · Livermore, CA · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 143
Nick Sweeney wrote:

Nothing listed so far is even close to the Rupal Face of Naga Parbat - that thing is 4100m tall! 

Except I listed it, up there at the top of the thread.

David Coley · · UK · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 70
Jake Gounaris wrote:

Seneca WV traverse lol. I few guys did it awhile back and made a movie called Almost Alpine.

And Almost Alpine remains of my favourite climbing films.

Jake, you clearly need to bring the cameras over to the UK and repeat my traverse above the sea. Big waves, seals, seaweed, portaledges, beer, tea..... Banff Film Festival here we come.

David Coley · · UK · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 70
ViperScale . wrote:

Well if you are talking about a traverse climb you can make up whatever you want. For longest multi-pitch that isn't contrived I would say it should be more about height and climbing up.

Contrived?

Please don't say that, if we didn't go sideways, we would never have any multi pitch in the country. Our cliffs are only 35ft  high and now we have left the EU we have no were else to go.

Stiles · · the Mountains · Joined May 2003 · Points: 845

Azeem Ridge is it. The Rupal Face doesnt get pitched out

Alexander Blum · · Livermore, CA · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 143
Stiles wrote:

Azeem Ridge is it. The Rupal Face doesnt get pitched out

This depends on how you define pitches. It is definitely hard enough to warrant pitching out for many climbers, including ice up to WI4 and rock climbing up to 5.9.  It is climbed roped, usually by leading a long simul-climb pitch until out of ice screws, then switching. That meets my personal definition, but I accept yours could be different. I think that would meet most climber's definition of a multi pitch route.

This trip report by Vince Anderson actually suggests that large portions of the face were in fact pitched out. I agree that the Azeem Ridge is much harder, but it is also about half the height.

Eric Engberg · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 0

Are you counting pitches or distance?  Discounting girdles, ridge traverses, linkups?  If you want a serious answer then you need to do lots more research and provide some precise criteria.

Anonymous · · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 0
David Coley wrote:

Contrived?

Please don't say that, if we didn't go sideways, we would never have any multi pitch in the country. Our cliffs are only 35ft  high and now we have left the EU we have no were else to go.

Contrived when there is a point you can go straight up but instead of going straight up 50ft to the top but you traverse 5000ft sidewise just to try to make it longer. Traversing is fine as long as it is required to get to the top in a responsible manner. Straight up 1000ft (direct) 5.13 but can be done by adding 200ft traverse in the middle of the climb and turn it into a 5.7 is less contrived imo. If you are turning a 50ft direct 5.13 climb into a 5000ft 5.13 traverse would be contrived imo.

Heck I know of a lot of crags I could traverse back and forth and make a 10000ft climb if I wanted but it would be stupid because you are traversing over the top of climbs that exist that go straight up.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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