Best sport shoe for low-volume feet?

Rock shoe conundrum! I have low volume feet that are fairly narrow. The best fitting shoe I've ever found is the Katana Lace. I'm looking for something a bit more aggressive. I'm rocking cushy-fit Katanas for cracks, multi-pitch, and easy sport. Looking for a shoe for harder sport with some downturn. If it can handle an occasional crack that's a plus but not entirely necessary.

So far I'm considering LS Otaki, LS Skwama, and Scarpa Instinct VS, but I'm open to other ideas. I've had Testarossas but they aren't the best for my low-volume feet.

Any suggestions?

How big are your feet?  Have you looked at the low volume/women's version of shoes?  If they make them big enough for your feet, check out the blue/white Miura VS or Pink Solutions.  Are your feet narrow in the toebox?  You might do well with Five Ten's Blackwings, Dragons, or Teams (all similar fit, but very different purpose shoes).

Butora makes shoes in different widths. I would look into those as well. Their narrow sizes are significantly lower volume. 

Kataki felt low volume to me and similar to a Katana Lace

If you love the katana the shoe you’re looking for is the women’s kataki 

Thanks all! Good ideas.

Ted, my feet are about 28cm long, "A" width on a brannock with a low instep and long toes. "Greek" shape. Medium/small heel. Sportiva and Scarpa heel is usually good. Street size is usually US 10-10.5. My comfy Katanas are size 43. Good idea with the ladies shoes - I had kinda forgotten about that option. They definitely make the ladies version in my size, but they become hard to find above 41.5. I'd say my feet are narrow in the toebox, yeah. But my toes knuckle up pretty high if I size tight because they're so long. Vapor Lace's were excruciating. I don't really know anything about the more aggresive 5.10 shoes - how would you sum up the purposes of the ones you recommended? They all seem like soft asym bouldering shoes - which would be the best for slightly overhanging sport? Also do you know if the heel on the ladie's Solution is smaller than the men's Solution? Or if the difference is in the forefoot?

Scott, I've tried on their bouldering slipper and the heel was pretty wacky for me. Tons of dead space (or maybe I'm a wimp and didn't try 'em small enough). Any experience with their Narsha?

Mike & Mike, good call on the Katakis. Part of me feels like they're so similar to the Katanas that they wouldn't add much for me. But then again, maybe more interesting than just another pair of Katanas in a different size. Any thoughts on if Katakis really feel more downturned or "sporty" than Katanas, or if it's just a different heel?

Thanks all for the tips!

The Katakis are significantly more downturned than the katanas, plus their p3 lasting does a great job of holding that downturn even through multiple resoles. They’ve been the shoe of choice for a good few people I know climbing in the Red this past season, plus you have the benefit of the womens being soled in grip2 instead of edge which I personally prefer for steeper sport

Mike Byrnes wrote:

The Katakis are significantly more downturned than the katanas, plus their p3 lasting does a great job of holding that downturn even through multiple resoles. They’ve been the shoe of choice for a good few people I know climbing in the Red this past season, plus you have the benefit of the womens being soled in grip2 instead of edge which I personally prefer for steeper sport

How does the kataki fit compare to the otaki?

Mike Byrnes wrote:

The Katakis are significantly more downturned than the katanas, plus their p3 lasting does a great job of holding that downturn even through multiple resoles. They’ve been the shoe of choice for a good few people I know climbing in the Red this past season, plus you have the benefit of the womens being soled in grip2 instead of edge which I personally prefer for steeper sport

Killer. Thanks for that info. I agree that the grip2 would be an advantage, and would make it less redundant to my Katanas. Do you happen to know if the "significantly more downturned than the katanas" applies to the Otaki as well?

Z Winters wrote:

Killer. Thanks for that info. I agree that the grip2 would be an advantage, and would make it less redundant to my Katanas. Do you happen to know if the "significantly more downturned than the katanas" applies to the Otaki as well?

Yep, both of the shoes fit fairly similarly, it really just comes down to personal preference of which closure system fits your foot better. It’s great to have the option to try both of them on, so if no local retailer stocks both in the women’s model/doesn’t have your size I’d suggest just ordering both online and returning one of the two after giving them a feel. 

Butora acro

Jake Jones wrote:

I have very low volume, narrow and long feet.  I've tried Sportiva, Evolv, Scarpa, Butora and Tenaya.  Tenayas fit my feet the best hands down.  So much so that it's the only brand I can wear.  YMMV.

Good to know! Any favorite Tenaya models?

Go blanco, best shoe ever.

Z Winters wrote:

Thanks all! Good ideas.

Ted, my feet are about 28cm long, "A" width on a brannock with a low instep and long toes. "Greek" shape. Medium/small heel. Sportiva and Scarpa heel is usually good. Street size is usually US 10-10.5. My comfy Katanas are size 43. Good idea with the ladies shoes - I had kinda forgotten about that option. They definitely make the ladies version in my size, but they become hard to find above 41.5. I'd say my feet are narrow in the toebox, yeah. But my toes knuckle up pretty high if I size tight because they're so long. Vapor Lace's were excruciating. I don't really know anything about the more aggresive 5.10 shoes - how would you sum up the purposes of the ones you recommended? They all seem like soft asym bouldering shoes - which would be the best for slightly overhanging sport? Also do you know if the heel on the ladie's Solution is smaller than the men's Solution? Or if the difference is in the forefoot?

Scott, I've tried on their bouldering slipper and the heel was pretty wacky for me. Tons of dead space (or maybe I'm a wimp and didn't try 'em small enough). Any experience with their Narsha?

Mike & Mike, good call on the Katakis. Part of me feels like they're so similar to the Katanas that they wouldn't add much for me. But then again, maybe more interesting than just another pair of Katanas in a different size. Any thoughts on if Katakis really feel more downturned or "sporty" than Katanas, or if it's just a different heel?

Thanks all for the tips!

Team = super soft bouldering shoe, one of the best out there for horizontal roofs.

Blackwings = fairly soft, more of an all-around bouldering/sport shoe.

Dragon = stiffer, best edger.

HiAngles = stiffest of Five Ten’s aggressive shoes (still softer than most LS IMO).

For the angle you’re describing, I would probably go with the Dragons or HiAngles.  I have the misfortune of narrow heels and a long, wide feet (D), and the Blackwings were too narrow in the toe box for me, although my toes also knuckle like you describe (even when big toe is flat).  HiAngles have a leather upper which stretches a bit, which might be why they work well for me.  Same thing with the Solutions, sized down super low.

Z Winters wrote:Scott, I've tried on their bouldering slipper and the heel was pretty wacky for me. Tons of dead space (or maybe I'm a wimp and didn't try 'em small enough). Any experience with their Narsha?

Haven’t tried the Narshas. I wonder if the LS genius would work with its asymmetrical lacing. Also, similar fit to the katana is the scarpa vapor. They may come in women’s sizes. Not sure. Good luck. 

I have a somewhat narrow foot for a 13. The best fitting boots I've tried as far as width goes were the Lowa Tibet Pro GTX's, however, there wasn't much room vertically in the toe box for me. I'm using Crispi's and Zamberlan.

I've really only ever heard good things about the five ten hiangles. A lot of my friends that used to rock the Dragons/Teams/Solutions have been thoroughly converted. There is a low volume (women's?) version as well. Definitely stiffer than the other offerings

Thanks, Ted! The "aggressive" stuff from Five Ten has always been a bit of a mystery to me. I've just never tried them and after seeing a Team VXI fold in half just by looking at it wrong, I had kinda written them all off as comp shoes. With Alan's input, it sounds like the HiAngles would definitely be worth a look. I mostly climb in the western US where there realistically isn't that much super steep sport climbing, so something a little stiffer makes more sense to me.

Scott, yeah I've demoed the LS Genius and found them to be really comfortable and fit well. They would actually probably be a great option for me, but for whatever reason I've felt like they're too much shoe for me not climbing any harder than .12 sport. Maybe that's silly reasoning, but they're just so spendy and flashy ha! I found the Vapors to not size down well for my long toes. Excruciating.

Going to try the Otaki W's and Instinct VS (not low-volume specific I know, but we'll see). I'll report back. Might have to give the Hi-Angles a go if those don't work out.

Jake Jones wrote:

I have very low volume, narrow and long feet.  I've tried Sportiva, Evolv, Scarpa, Butora and Tenaya.  Tenayas fit my feet the best hands down.  So much so that it's the only brand I can wear.  YMMV.

Tenaya only for me too. I have climbed in the Oasi, Iati, Masai and Tatanka 

The Oasi and Iati are best for hard sport and bouldering. 

Masai is my go to slab shoe and good all-around 

Tatanka is a bit more aggressive but also a good all-around shoe. This shoe is accomodating to Morton's toe. 

Sweet, Verg! What's the difference between the Oasi and Iati? They look very similar. Any difference in fit?

Z Winters wrote:

Sweet, Verg! What's the difference between the Oasi and Iati? They look very similar. Any difference in fit?

The fit is a little larger for the Iati. I think wider in the toebox, but I size them the same. I like the Iati heel more though. To be honest I buy whatever model is on sale between the two. Tenaya has wisely put the Iati closure buckle on the Oasi as well.