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First harness help!

Original Post
Michael Mancuso · · Racine, WI · Joined Dec 2017 · Points: 0

Hi all!

New to climbing, and I'm loving it so far! I'm in the process of buying a new harness, and I really like the Black Diamond Solution harness. However, I'm a bit unsure on fit. The large waist fits, but I have to cinch it almost all the way to get a snug fit. And the leg loops are non- adjustable, and don't seem to be all that snug when standing, but fill up once I'm hanging in it.

I haven't yet had a chance to try a medium, but I feel like the legs will fit better. However, I feel like there will be a gap in the waist that's just the webbing... is that okay, or should both of the pads wrap and come in contact with each other?

Hopefully that made sense, and thanks in advance!

waldo · · Knoxville, TN · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 30

Try on a few different harness. I tried on several before finding one that I really liked. A decent sales person should be able to help you find one that fits well then it’s up to you to decide what style you like best. 

Colin Dev · · Denver · Joined Dec 2017 · Points: 0

In my opinion....

Black Diamond Momentum package is a great place to start. No reason you can't climb gym and outdoor TR with that harness. Even get into leading sport without issue. 

Michael Mancuso · · Racine, WI · Joined Dec 2017 · Points: 0

Thanks for the responses! The Solution just felt very comfortable. I will probably look elsewhere. Just to know though, do the leg loops need to be fitted, or is that more of a preference?

Colin Dev wrote:

In my opinion....

Black Diamond Momentum package is a great place to start. No reason you can't climb gym and outdoor TR with that harness. Even get into leading sport without issue. 

King Tut · · Citrus Heights · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 430

Better to get adjustable leg loops in a first harness. This way it can be used with a variety of clothing.

After that you can dial it in.

I like the BD Momemtum Dual Speed so you can always adjust it perfectly.

Harnesses without adjustable leg loops are really only good for sport climbing on blue bird days. I mean you can get by with them a little lose or tight but much nicer to always have it "just right".

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,687

Leg loops don't need to be snug.

Daniel Howe · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 0
King Tut wrote:

Better to get adjustable leg loops in a first harness. This way it can be used with a variety of clothing.

After that you can dial it in.

I like the BD Momemtum Dual Speed so you can always dial it in.

I agree on adjustability for leg loops. To be honest, it annoys me that so many harnesses aren’t adjustable. 

I just got a new Petzl corax harness and love the wider waist webbing and adjustability for legs and waist.  Perhaps try sitting in the harness while hanging if they allow that at the store you go to try on the harness. 

If you end up doing any multipitch climbing in the future or try working a route for any length of time, your comfort in the harness will make all the difference in your perceived enjoyment of the time.  

King Tut · · Citrus Heights · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 430

And depending on your fitness to begin with, you may gain or lose weight around your waist/legs as you gain strength.

Alvin Tham · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2017 · Points: 0
Michael M wrote:

Hi all!

New to climbing, and I'm loving it so far! I'm in the process of buying a new harness, and I really like the Black Diamond Solution harness. However, I'm a bit unsure on fit. The large waist fits, but I have to cinch it almost all the way to get a snug fit. And the leg loops are non- adjustable, and don't seem to be all that snug when standing, but fill up once I'm hanging in it.

I haven't yet had a chance to try a medium, but I feel like the legs will fit better. However, I feel like there will be a gap in the waist that's just the webbing... is that okay, or should both of the pads wrap and come in contact with each other?

Hopefully that made sense, and thanks in advance!

I’ve been climbing almost two decade. Forget about the price tag. Imagine this harness is probably gonna outlast the ‘expiry’ date. You’re gonna use it for a long long time. Spend a little more. Get a good one. 

My first harness was the earlier generation of BD chaos. It lasted me more than a decade altrhiugt I should retire it after 7 years from manufacturing date. I’ve put it through hell & condition is still good. I saw many newbie is using new harness and mine looks ‘outdated’ hence I got myself a Perzl sitta. Looks like I made the right choice. 

If you like the ‘feather’ weight of BD solution, try test out Petzl Sitta. 

I think it’s more important to fit your waist over the concern of leg loop fitting (safety wise). Looser leg loop is not really an issue, loose leg loop, you lose the comfortable of hanging if you’re belaying a second at outdoor climb. If most of your time is in the gym, then looser leg make not much difference. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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