Protection Before Abseil on Trad Climb

Just wondering what people use for 'protection' just prior to abseiling at the top of a trad climb?  I recently bought a Metolius PAS which I very much like (the adjustability) and normally girth hitch this to my belay loop, though will start to attach it with a biner in future (I realise that's ma separate topic).  I was thinking of using this on a trad climb but my climbing partner mocks me for taking it, saying "This aint no sports crag, Jimmy!".  I reply "Stop calling me Jimmy and I'll take what I want".  

Anyhoo, considering the amount of gear you've got at the abseil (slings, quick draws etc) is it rather silly to take a PAS22 and use that?  I get you could use a sling or two quick draws, but feel the PAS22 offers possibly a better solution in that it's adjustable, you can carry it all ready to roll (I use a Black Diamond Magnetron on the 'clipping' end and a screw gate biner on the harness end) and you don't need to much around grabbing a sling off your seconder and attaching that.  

Finally, a discussion on the use of a PAS! 

I use a Sterling Chain Reactor. Many people will say you don't need that expensive bulky gear, when you can just use slings you already have with you. 

I like the adjustability of the PAS for comfort at the rap station, which is better than "just tie a knot in your runner."

Note: I only use the Chain Reactor at rappel stations. For multipitch, clove hitch to the anchor with the rope, on the way up.

I always wear a condom...before and after.

I use a 4' length of 3/4" stainless steel chain from Home Depot attached to my belay loop with a master lock. More clip in options than a PAS and way stronger. 

Carl Schneider wrote:

Just wondering what people use for 'protection' just prior to abseiling at the top of a trad climb?  I recently bought a Metolius PAS which I very much like (the adjustability) and normally girth hitch this to my belay loop, though will start to attach it with a biner in future (I realise that's ma separate topic).  I was thinking of using this on a trad climb but my climbing partner mocks me for taking it, saying "This aint no sports crag, Jimmy!".  I reply "Stop calling me Jimmy and I'll take what I want".  

Anyhoo, considering the amount of gear you've got at the abseil (slings, quick draws etc) is it rather silly to take a PAS22 and use that?  I get you could use a sling or two quick draws, but feel the PAS22 offers possibly a better solution in that it's adjustable, you can carry it all ready to roll (I use a Black Diamond Magnetron on the 'clipping' end and a screw gate biner on the harness end) and you don't need to much around grabbing a sling off your seconder and attaching that.  

Do what makes you feel comfortable.  Preparing to rappel is not a time to be shamed or bullied into using less gear or using a piece of gear with which you are not familiar or comfortable, because someone else doesn't like the style.  

If, at some point, you decide that you want to explore alternatives, do so, but your priority when preparing to descend a route should be safety and efficacy, not what other people think about the style of your methods and tools.

I use a PAS when I'm cragging, but I don't bring it on alpine climbs where weight is at a premium.  When I don't have a PAS, I bring a double length nylon sling, throw a couple of knots in it, and use it in the exact same fashion as my PAS.  

Just do what makes you feel comfortable. I have the same pas you have and have it on my harness for the majority of climbs. I use a small locker though and save the big magnetrons for other things though. 

I climbed with a guide recently and he said this "there are plenty of "right" ways to do things in climbing but the one steadfast rule I follow is don't deck" 

so if your pas keeps you from hitting the ground, then keep doing you. 

Anytime you anticipate untying from the rope to rappel or to pass it through the chains some form of PAS is useful, imo, and the more often the more useful.

Pretty much no two anchors are drilled at the same height and ergo no single sling works well at all of them. I like a nice stable stance to get in and out of rappels etc and something adjustable works for me to dial it in. This may also be due to latent aid climbing background where tiny bits in adjustment can save a lot of effort etc.

Ideally never belay off of one as your primary connection to the anchor, however. You want the strength of the rope and the added stretch it supplies for holding any kind of a real fall, reducing the stress on you and your anchor.

King Tut wrote:

Pretty much no two anchors are drilled at the same height and ergo no single sling works well at all of them. I like a nice stable stance to get in and out of rappels etc and something adjustable works for me to dial it in. This may also be due to latent aid climbing background where tiny bits in adjustment can save a lot of effort etc.

The Petzl Connect-adjust is really good for this--it can be adjusted one-handed without unclipping.

One can use the Kong Slyde with a section of rope to create a device very similar to the Connect-adjust, but for a lot cheaper. I have the Connect-Adjust already, but if I were in the market for a new PAS, I'd go for the Kong Slyde + rope.

David Kerkeslager wrote:

The Petzl Connect-adjust is really good for this--it can be adjusted one-handed without unclipping.

One can use the Kong Slyde with a section of rope to create a device very similar to the Connect-adjust, but for a lot cheaper. I have the Connect-Adjust already, but if I were in the market for a new PAS, I'd go for the Kong Slyde + rope.

Yeah the Petzl Connect looks good too.  

Just got back from a five day trip to Mount Arapalis (did my first grade 15 trad lead onsight BTW  ) and pretty much decided the long sling is problematic for all the reasons some of you stated, i.e. that it's actually often too long. I tied knots in it once but basically i think something adjustable would be good. A very experience climber who I asked advice from for one of my anchors used the Petzle Connect Adjust so I might get one of those (just want to check out how small it stows).  
Found also that the magnetron, while nice and quick, isn't all that great for using at the chains as it's a little too large to go through chain links at times, so I might swap to a locking biner.  
Thanks for all the advice...

I use the Metolius PAS 22 for sport lead and trad. I find it to be a very versatile device. 

Carl Schneider wrote:

Just got back from a five day trip to Mount Arapalis (did my first grade 15 trad lead onsight BTW  ) and pretty much decided the long sling is problematic for all the reasons some of you stated, i.e. that it's actually often too long. I tied knots in it once but basically i think something adjustable would be good  

Just clove hitch it into the biner to the length you want like any normal person would, tying knots in slings sucks and is never nescessary.

Jim Titt wrote:

Just clove hitch it into the biner to the length you want like any normal person would, tying knots in slings sucks and is never nescessary.

Oh thanks!  I never THOUGHT about acting like a NORMAL person!!

This thread reads like it really wants to be in the "Beginning Climbers" forum.