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Goal Zero Yeti 1400 Lithium Experience?
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Wondering if anyone out there has used this battery in their van build outs. Looking for feedback. Preferably from someone who has lived in their van for months at a time. |
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I have not used the Yeti 1400. But I've looked at it and priced out building something comparable so I thought I'd share the info. I sometimes think these all-in-one solutions, such as the controller-battery-inverter all in a single box might suffer from inferior components inside. The rig I have hypothetically thrown together below is made of some good equipment, ie., premium batteries and solar charge controller, both of which are the core of the system. I do note that the key benefit of the Yeti 1400 is the lithium battery which lends greatly to the rig being so lite weight at 56 pounds. Going with two Optima Yellowtop D34 sealed lead acid batteries would go at 86 pounds. Yeti 1400 + Nomad 100 panel 56 pounds 132 amp hours 100w solar panel $1900 Home brew rig 84 pounds 110 amp hours Renogy 150w solar panel $174 Morningstar MPPT 15 amp solar charge controller $243 Optima Yellowtop D34 battery $276x2=$552 1500 watt inverter $100 TOTAL $1069 The home brew rig is cheaper (got to add in some cable, distribution and connectors, though) and the panel is 50% better. However the batteries are heavier and less capacity. Add a third battery to the home brew, and you get 165 amp hours, 126 pounds and a total of $1345. That's still cheaper, and probably better quality all-around but significantly more heavy. |
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do a lot of work with FEMA and other GOV't agencies and have sold a lot of GZ stuff to them all. Yeti 1250 not the 1400. 1400 is much lighter than 1250, you'll blow your uterus out lifting the 1250. both are great pieces of equipment. other company to look at is http://gridless.com/ |
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John, did you consider or find any available home brew lithium rigs? |
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Definitely depends on how weight sensitive you are. With a van build, I'd assume you'd mount the equipment in the vehicle and then leave it there. It's not like you are planning on lifting the battery and distro out of the van and carrying it around. Jim Urbec says above that the Yeti 1250 is a lot heavier (it doesn't have the lithium batteries) but it's a lot cheaper. Depends if you don't mind driving around with the extra weight. Anyway, in the post above, I priced in the Nomad 100 solar panel which is ridiculously expensive. Without panels, the above comparison comes out to $1400 versus $895 for just batteries, controller and inverter. |
Ryan Stenson wrote: I haven't shopped around for lithium batteries. They are super light weight, but I assume they are expensive. I believe the lithium batteries are a little more dangerous than sealed-lead acid batteries, as far as explosion hazards go. Anyway I have four Optima Yellowtop D34 batteries in my 2011 Tacoma. No panels yet, though. That is the next step, just haven't gotten around to it. By the way, the original poster would do well considering a way to have the vehicle charge the batteries while the engine is running. That way he can top-off the batteries at night, for example, when he is driving around. I use the IBS-DBS Dual Battery System to automatically connect the auxiliary battery system to the alternator while running and disconnect when the engine is shut off. An excellent addition to a vehicle solar charge system. Link below. http://ibs-tech.ch/en/products/dual-battery-system/ibs-dbs.html |
Jim Urbec wrote: other company to look at is http://gridless.com/ From their site:
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Go true DIY and build your own battery bank from a bunch of 18650 lithiums. Those are what power hybrid cars, ebikes, laptops, Tesla's PowerWall etc. Google DIY powerwall for ideas... |
Hobo Greg wrote: actually, jim knows me well and knows my history of repeated uterus blowouts. no harm there. |
