Layers for Ouray

I'll be heading down to Ouray around Christmas to try out some ice climbing.  Having never ice climbed before I figured I would get a second opinion.  I planned on bringing along the following and piecing something together.  Should I toss a lighter weight puffy in there as well?  I know everyone always recommended the DAS which no longer exists so I'm unsure of an equivalent. 

• Cap 3 Baselayers
• R1 Hoodie
• Nano Air Light Hoodie
• Alpha FL
• Cirque Pants
• I've got 2 pairs of gloves as well.

Guides are providing all of the climbing equipment.

You need a warm jacket/parka when you are standing around in the snow, waiting for a climb.  You don't need something ridiculous like a Feathered Friends parka meant for Alaska climbing but a good synthetic or inexpensive down jacket would work.

I used an Arc'Teryx dually when I was there last and that was more than enough.

Good sorting of gear, depending on the weather the Nano Air (wonderful piece) may be your climbing final layer, but jg fox hit it with a down belay coat once you are off of the climb. If you are in the ice park then it will be something of a freezer since it is in a gorge. I recently picked up a La-Sportiva Cham down coat for around $130 and couldn't be happier, it is puffy but not artic puffy.

I've been to Ouray about 10+ times now to climb in the park and or the surrounding backcountry. The first day I was there the high for the day was 6F - I have had plenty of days where it started off cold and the high was 45F as well. I tend to have two puffys one for things about 20 and above when layered (which it looks like you have it covered) and one for when it's really cold - which I would say you are missing. Not suggesting you go drop big bucks - but if it does end up being arctic it can suck to spend a solid 8 hours being really cold - and you likely won't learn nearly as much from the guides you hired to teach you to climb. 

Where you are coming from will have some impact.  I have found that NE cold is certainly different from Colorado cold.  My experience has been the lower humidity in Colorado (and sun if lucky) makes it seem a little warmer than ADK or White Mountains.

I own both an R1 Hoody and the Nano-Air Light Hoody.  Don't bring both, you won't end-up using both.  I've also been to Ouray & climbed in the park & in the backcountry.  Temperature depending, I'd rock your Cap 3 (I wear a Cap 1) under the Nano-Air Light Hoody & stuff your Alpha FL in your pack just in case it's drippy or windy in the park.

I'd definitely look into buying a nice, puffy, belay jacket.  I personally like down as it keeps me much warmer and faster than any synthetic I've ever tried.  You just have to be careful with down so that it doesn't absorb moisture.  I've had good luck with down jackets from Rab as of late.  Rab uses a hydrophobic down treatment, which helps with water resistance.  

You may want a pair of belay gloves or mittens.  Two thin gloves for climbing and one heavier glove or mitten for belaying.  If you enjoy winter climbing, at some point you'll experience screaming barfies & you will never be so glad to have a heavyweight mitt in your pack.  

FWIW, I tried on Patagonia's new Hyper Puff Parka at my local shop and it's pretty damn impressive (for the 5 minutes I had it on inside.)  I felt my body heat radiate pretty fast, just like a down jacket. If I were looking for a synthetic belay jacket, I'd definitely give the Hyper Puff Parka a strong look; plus, I believe I read somewhere it was designed to replace the DAS.

Thanks for all the help!  Much appreciated!  

More gloves. Especially if your going for multiple days. 

This is an insane deal for the belay jacket I have for this reason, it's been warm with just a Tshirt under to 20F so far, it's got 120g PL in it.

Sam Lewando wrote:

This is an insane deal for the belay jacket I have for this reason, it's been warm with just a Tshirt under to 20F so far, it's got 120g PL in it.

Yeah that is a great deal.  Especially if you just need cheap kit as you venture into ice climbing.

Assuming the exact same layering system as the original poster, would a jacket with 8+ ounces of fill weight like the Rab Neutrino work well as a puffy - or is that overkill?  There are tons of options in the 3.5 ounce fill weight range but I'm not sure if that's enough warmth for belay.  (Assuming around 800 fill power.)

I would not call that overkill. 

Adam Himel wrote:

There are tons of options in the 3.5 ounce fill weight range but I'm not sure if that's enough warmth for belay.  (Assuming around 800 fill power.)

For most people I would think 3.5oz is a 3-season backpacking jacket. 

8oz sounds about right for a reasonable midweight belay jacket for ice climbing. Lots of people use that Rab jacket. 

^Agreed. It all depends on your layering system and how you retain heat while standing still=belays.  Personally, I heat up fast while climbing, but freeze during static activity.  I rock a big, fat, Rab belay jacket as I need the extra warmth during the belay.  Never cared that I have to hump the extra weight as the reassurance of having an expedition-weight down jacket is well worth it to me, especially when I can't feel my hands. 

The Rab Neutrino is a sewn-through constructed down jacket, which means it doesn't have baffles stitched in to consolidate and contain the down clusters; the baffles are sewn-through the jacket allowing cold air to enter the punctures used by the thread.  This means the jacket will be little lighter in weight, but not as warm as a fully box-baffled down jacket.  Just because a down jacket is made from "800-Fill Power" down, doesn't mean it'll be warmer than another down jacket.  What matters is the fill weight when it comes to measured warmth.  A jacket with 10 ounces of 650-fill will be warmer than a jacket with 3.5 ounces of 850-fill.

I've owned the Neutrino and it's a great belay jacket, but Rab has made some changes in the past year or two that take away from its prominence.  It still comes with a two-way zipper, but no button at the hem to keep the jacket synched to your body while exposing your belay loop.  Secondly, I found the fit to be off as of late - the men's medium is a bit too tight for layering and the large a bit too large to keep me warm. 

If Rab doesn't fit, I'd give Feathered Friends a look if you're searching for a big belay jacket.  Just my 2¢.