What is a chicken head?

Michael Schneider wrote:

No that is why they ARE recommending to use them as PROTECTION  gear . . 

Edit 

'cause Guy is being solid,

 I am not a geologist, but as i understand it they are plugs of Harder stone than the matrix that they stick out from.  As opposed to Cobbles, for example, which can also be slung & are often of a harder stone than the matrix, but the attachment is not fused( the result of Case Hardening/ exfoliation, erosion,  Remnants of missing outer layer) as it is with true Chickenheads. 

Knobs are very similar but maybe more weathered,less irregular edges. as that 1st Chickenhead knob, on the route  Windjammer, that Guy added.   Knobs, I feel are different more or less the same as the surrounding stone matrix, still very much more like Chickenheads than Cobbles

I also Climbed on something Called Pudding Stone that has pebbles embedded; Flat &  round faced, thin , fat all sorts of variety..  .  white to black quartz, extrusions

, and then There is the Sharp edged , metal-like extrusions of  Corbin Sandstone at The Red in Kentucky 

Desert Patina,  Is where it is a long process of Case Hardening that has combined with many other natural forces.

And

. DoH ! !, if sarcasm doesn't cut it ,

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105942411/knobs-to-gumbyland

I'm not sure what you are saying, or what you think that link is suggesting. 

Guy Keesee wrote:

Yes.....        they hold, better than bolts. 

and sometimes you can rope toss and get a TR.... 

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105834207/windjammer

You know this because you've often had bolts "not hold," but slung chicken heads "always hold?" 

Jason Kim wrote:

Is it standard practice to backclip a chickenhead? I see what happened there, but why not make this thread more interesting?

I was thinking the same thing then figured the biner had twisted on the dyneema

Geologically speaking, a chickenhead is a xenolith, or a harder intrusion that resists erosion more than the surrounding rock, like granite or quartz monzonite. As the surrounding rock is eroded, the chickenhead formally becomes a godsend. 

A bit to add: Unless the chickenhead has a lip on opposing sides don't use any sort of slipknot. It may stay on better under rope drag, but a fall can tighten it right off the chicken head. Chicken heads without opposing lips are best slung with an open sling, overhand knot, or some such. You can use a rubber band or tape to keep it on under rope drag if you're worried.

Creed A wrote:

You know this because you've often had bolts "not hold," but slung chicken heads "always hold?" 

Creed A ......   wow- do you have a sense of humor?     

Next time your hanging off of 2 chicken heads 500 feet up in the air and your partner is 40 feet above you going "watch me WATCH me" you will need to tell yourself... "relax, chicken heads are as good as bolts..." or you might freak out- like I do.    

That is lesson #1 in GUYZO's new "Climb and Party like a Stonemaster" book that's going to be released in early 2018... get it on Amazon, or better yet just mail me $100... 

And what I know is that chicken heads can detach themselves without warning. 

Warning- a story- biggest fall of my life.... climbing a big slab at Indian Wells, 5.8 Kamps root from the late 70's, I was holding on to a chicken head- that was the stance for my next bolt- the bolt below was about 30-40 feet down--- hand in chalk bag- thinking about how best to mantle onto the chicken head... Chickenhead blows! Ass over tea kettle.... 

so the moral of story.... chicken heads do blow- old bolts hold...   

never say never in this sport, sometimes you must trust

Here's what all you quail heads should know about chicken heads

https://youtu.be/LEGZ7hGaMNI

Maureen....  solid post, Thanks. 

Good info 

Sir Camsalot wrote:

Geologically speaking, a chickenhead is a xenolith, or a harder intrusion that resists erosion more than the surrounding rock, like granite or quartz monzonite. As the surrounding rock is eroded, the chickenhead formally becomes a godsend. 

Thanx for that.

Sir Camsalot wrote:

Geologically speaking, a chickenhead is a xenolith, or a harder intrusion that resists erosion more than the surrounding rock, like granite or quartz monzonite. As the surrounding rock is eroded, the chickenhead formally becomes a godsend. 

This is a common way they can for in igneous and metamorphic rocks. On rocks exposed to tons of sun like sandstone and granite, it seems they would more commonly form when rock erodes around a section of desert varnish a la Red Rock, NV. This would leave behind a singable, plate, that is attached by non varnished rock. Lots of the pictures on here like from Cochise are varnish, not xenoliths.

Edit: On sandstone, its desert varnish. It granitic rocks, it's called "case hardening" and happens when the rock cools.

Taylor Spiegelberg wrote:

This is a common way they can for in igneous and metamorphic rocks. On rocks exposed to tons of sun like sandstone and granite, it seems they would more commonly form when rock erodes around a section of desert varnish a la Red Rock, NV. This would leave behind a singable, plate, that is attached by non varnished rock. Lots of the pictures on here like from Cochise are varnish, not xenoliths.

Edit: On sandstone, its desert varnish. It granitic rocks, it's called "case hardening" and happens when the rock cools.

What about on sandstone that's not in the desert? We have a lot of chicken heads in the sandstone at Jackson Falls in Illinois and HCR in Arkansas for example--not exactly an arid desert environment. Thoughts?

Surface varnish like that happens when the rock face comes in contact with other elements. It probably has something to do with the different minerals and elements interacting after precip in that part of the country? I just looked this up: desert varnish most commonly is made up of clay minerals, manganese and iron. It has to happen in areas where erosion isn't possible, therefore cliff faces are perfect!

sorry for left handedness but I figured this would be relevant to share

Jordan Angus Gay wrote:

sorry for left handedness but I figured this would be relevant to share

Nice slipknot demo!