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Ascender instead of prussik?

Original Post
Paul Deger · · Colorado · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 36

As an old timer, back in the day, we did not back up our raps. As I look at adding this extra layer of security, I was wondering if possible/any advantages to using an ascender instead of a prussik? Or is that just nonsense? It still seems to me a prussik knot will keep catching.

Alex Drew · · Golden, CO · Joined May 2016 · Points: 10

ascenders do not work in this fashion, keep using a prussik.

Skibo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 5
Alex Drew wrote:

ascenders do not work in this fashion

Actually they do--I've rappelled with Jumar ascenders many, many times, using them to also get back up (banding birds).  Petzl ascenders have more of a tendency to lock up, and aren't recommended--dunno about BD.  For rappelling backup, they are unecessary, heavy and bulky, and a prussik is a much better option.  Done properly, you shouldn't have any trouble keeping it from locking up on you.

Bob Relish · · Hot Dog, USA · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 20

Use an autoblock instead of a prusik if you feel that a prusik is catching too much. Very easy to undo a wrap if necessary.

Kevin Mokracek · · Burbank · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 363

Since most raps are done with two strands it would be tough to back up a rappel with an ascender.  Ascenders are heavy and bulky and if you had to stop suddenly the sharp teeth wouldn’t be great for the sheath.  Just do an auto block. 

Paul Deger · · Colorado · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 36

Thanks for quick replies - just watched a few videos on autoblocks - looks simple enough!

Paul Deger · · Colorado · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 36

Just put a Sterling Hollow Block on my Christmas List!

Tim Stich · · Colorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,516

If your ascender grabs the rope during your rappel, good luck unweighting that shit without a second ascender, foot loops, etc.

Stick with prusiks or auto-blocks. If you absolutely want a mechanical backup, use the Petzl Shunt. It releases when you pull down on the lever.

Anonymous · · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 0

For decades I almost never used a backup on rappel and then one day realized it was just stupid. Now I always use an autoblock.

Autoblock is the way to go - it is trivial to setup and you can use any sling or cord that is handy.

Extending the rappel device off the harness makes the setup work much better.  Another reason to keep a PAS on the harness ... ;-)

Andrew Krajnik · · Plainfield, IL · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 1,739

The Petzl Shunt is advertised as being suitable for this purpose. It's a non-toothed device, works on single or double ropes, and states that it can be used as a rap backup. (I don't own a shunt, but when shopping for ascenders, noticed those unique characteristics listed.)

Jim Titt · · Germany · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 490
Andrew Krajnik wrote:

The Petzl Shunt is advertised as being suitable for this purpose. It's a non-toothed device, works on single or double ropes, and states that it can be used as a rap backup. (I don't own a shunt, but when shopping for ascenders, noticed those unique characteristics listed.)

Sure, my brother uses one all the time. Like most Brits I also use one for top-rope soloing, it´s even known as "Shunting" in the UK. 

kenr · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 16,608
Matias Francis wrote:

Use an autoblock instead of a prusik if you feel that a prusik is catching too much.

My prusik has never locked up, and I hang on my prusik backup _often_ while developing new routes.

If it ever did lock up, I would just raise one leg, wrap the free lower end of the rope around my foot two or three times, and stand up on that foot -- thus take the weight off the prusik knot.

If all else fails, I carry a little knife (because stuck backup knot is not the only thing that can go wrong on rappel -- or while climbing).

Ken

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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