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Fractured 5th metatarsal, how long until I can climb again?

Original Post
Ji Ye · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2017 · Points: 0

Fractured the fifth metatarsal on my right foot about two weeks ago in a non climbing related incident. Doc says it's not a true avulsion fracture or a jones but something in between, and seems to think I should be walking again at week 6 of things go smoothly. Since the injury I've been completely non weight bearing on that foot, and wear an aircast/use crutches to get around. Anyone have experience with this type of injury? What was the recovery process like? Any tips to speed it up? And probabaly most important, how long until you were back on the wall?!

sc thomas · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 0

broke my 5th metatarsal (clean fracture, no surgery) in left foot several years ago.  elevate it and ice it as much as you can, anywhere you are.  i think what surprised me most and also scared me was how--the foot non weight bearing for apprx 3 months--i lost range of motion (stiffness) and ankle felt weak and unstable.  on top of the physical healing is the mental side; fearing re-injury on lead falls, crack climbing, etc.  at 5-6 months after injury i was top roping mostly (at 70-80% recovered), still fearful of reinjury.  i was back to 100% (mobility, no more sensations related to injury, no more fear of reinjury) 1 year after.  i'm also 35 so if youre younger you may have a shorter timeline.  just watch a bunch of climbing videos, hangboard, etc.  good luck. 

Jason Eberhard · · Atlanta, GA · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 111

I broke mine due to a stress fracture from running.  I was given the option to put a screw in it for a faster recovery but wanted to avoid surgery and permanent hardware.  I was having foot pain for awhile before it happened (actually heard it pop) and it was 6 months before I was cleared to run on it again.  Once it healed I was cleared I had zero pain.  See if your insurance will get you a bone simulator; my doc seemed to think that had a fairly positive impact on the healing.

Kristoffer Schmarr · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 839

use your downtime positively. do stuff like hang boarding and core work so that you can amaze yourself once you get back on the wall. I've always been of the opinion that light strain on healing parts is beneficial. I fractured a few metatarsals several years ago. I feel like I was walking in the aircast after a week or two, in shoes (gingerly) in 3 weeks and TRing (very carefully) in 4 weeks. (I was in my late 20's and seemed to still be healing quickly, and I'm very impatient.) Wear a stiff shoe (maybe the aircast would work) and pay close attention to the pain while walking and climbing for the first couple months. Avoid jumping/falling and loose ground material. Frisbee on the beach at two months was still giving me reminders that the foot was still mending. Enjoy yourself, get well soon!

Jason Eberhard · · Atlanta, GA · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 111

Depending on the type of break, any movement too early can basically reset the healing process.  With your foot it's a very delicate balance of promoting bloodflow and keeping the bones from moving.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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