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Is Cochise Stronghold a fun place to climb?

Original Post
James Barrow · · Saint George. Utah · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 346

I live up near Zion so I haven't travelled much further than Lime Kiln southbound for climbing and was curious about the quality of this area?  Also if there are any areas that are worth checking out in Arizona and New Mexico throw them my way please. 

John Sirois · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 3,220

Hell yeah! Imagine our delight on getting to this anchor on Ewephoria and finding its spirit animal safely tied off there.

Nick Henscheid · · Tucson, AZ · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 625

It depends very highly on what you're looking for.  If you want reasonably casual, safe, steep sport climbing, Cochise definitely isn't the place for you - head to The Homestead or Lemmon instead.  There is a fair amount of very good sport climbing in the Stronghold, but it's more like J-Tree style sport climbing: techy, low-angle granite face, usually a little run out and definitely sandbagged.  If you're looking for some of the best granite multipitches around, you're well versed in trad multipitch tactics, don't mind a bit of spice and sandbagged grades, you'll find the Stronghold to be one of the most inspiring, humbling, beautiful places to climb anywhere.  Just don't go expecting roadside cragging or anything.

Greg D · · Here · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 883

It's good if you like runout slaby stuff and high winds.

Josh Janes · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2001 · Points: 10,245

Not fun. Haunted.

Howard · · Costa Mesa, CA · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 2,695

There's well bolted sport climbing roadside at Sweet Rock and other places.  Techy interesting sequences that were more worthwhile than I expected.

Daniel Evans · · Phoenix, AZ · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 80

I just climbed at Cochise this Halloween weekend and loved it. As someone who has stayed away from the area for sometime now due to the perceived seriousness of the "runouts," I can say that this was certainly not the case for quite a few routes. The bolts on the friction pitch (P3) of Ewephoria, for example, are like 5 ft apart--see picture below. I've also read that the FA parties retrobolted lots of the classic climbs such as Absinthe of Mallet and Peacemaker. The run outs I encountered were all over 5.4-5.6 terrain on dinner plate jugs or low angle slab with positive features, but you may find yourself 30 or 40 ft above a bolt on this terrain if the route goes at a harder grade. So probably not a great intro to sport climbing for a timid leader at the grade, but someone who trad climbs a lot outdoors should have no issues here. A single rack of trad gear is required for some of the routes, which eases this run out substantially. Bring the nuts too, as they place really well between the dinner plates. Trust me, I'm no bad ass and highly recommend making a stop here.

Ivan Cross · · Flagstaff · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 198

Yes

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Arizona & New Mexico
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