Tonsai

I last visited Tonsai in 2011, and I've heard it has changed a lot since then with the beachfront now all larger resorts like the Raillay side. Has anyone been there and seen the changes and can comment on what it's like now compared to several years ago. Are there still cheap bungalows and relatively cheap food to be had? Have any of the waste issues been dealt with i.e. burning trash and dumping sewage straight into Tonsai bay, lots of people still getting the Tonsai tummy? Also, any beta on if people are still climbing on Koh yao noi since the ban?

The Tonsai Bay Resort next to the freedom bar is the only "large" resort this side..

The rest are all modest bungalows up in the hills.  A little haggling might get you 200baht a night for a non AC bungalow with a single fan which has never been cleaned and he rest of the accommodations to match.

The palm tree forest has been thinned out, most of the garbage in there removed, and there is a Berlin esque wall running along the boundary of the forest and Tonsai bay resort.  Supposedly the plan is to build something in there but for now its main purpose seems to be to separate the resort from "the hood," and force people staying up in the jungle to go to the far end of the beach on the north and then come down.  (Or climb the wall and go through the palm tree forest.)  Everyone goes through the resort though even though there is a sign forbidding it.

Food wise the best bang for buck is Mamas Chicken.  A large 1/3 lb piece of excellent grilled chicken runs 60baht. Most drinks are 50b, at the resort drinks are 80.  Entrees are 70-120 or so, at the resort it's 150 and up.  Some say green restaurant is also good but I found the food better at mama chicken and portions twice as big.

To get there head to the hood from the beach through the resort, turn right at base camp.  Go up the dirt road past the dens of ill repute on your left, pass the generator room on the right, continue 350' to mama chicken on the right.

Re Tonsai Tummy- my local friend who lives in Bangkok says that everyone gets the shits here.  If it's not coming out both ends it's not the Tummy.  Tonsai Tummy in that case may just be plain old food poisoning.  I've only been eating at the resort and mama chickens and have not had the Tummy.  I did have the shits my first three or four days and ate very little for three of those.  I tried taking activated charcoal which didn't help.  Probiotic capsules are probably the most likely to keep it off..  a few of my friends are fortunate and didn't suffer.

A small handful of people here have had the full on tum...

Simon W wrote:

The Tonsai Bay Resort next to the freedom bar is the only "large" resort this side..

The rest are all modest bungalows up in the hills.  A little haggling might get you 200baht a night for a non AC bungalow with a single fan which has never been cleaned and he rest of the accommodations to match.

The palm tree forest has been thinned out, most of the garbage in there removed, and there is a Berlin esque wall running along the boundary of the forest and Tonsai bay resort.  Supposedly the plan is to build something in there but for now its main purpose seems to be to separate the resort from "the hood," and force people staying up in the jungle to go to the far end of the beach on the north and then come down.  (Or climb the wall and go through the palm tree forest.)  Everyone goes through the resort though even though there is a sign forbidding it.

Food wise the best bang for buck is Mamas Chicken.  A large 1/3 lb piece of excellent grilled chicken runs 60baht. Most drinks are 50b, at the resort drinks are 80.  Entrees are 70-120 or so, at the resort it's 150 and up.  Some say green restaurant is also good but I found the food better at mama chicken and portions twice as big.

To get there head to the hood from the beach through the resort, turn right at base camp.  Go up the dirt road past the dens of ill repute on your left, pass the generator room on the right, continue 350' to mama chicken on the right.

Re Tonsai Tummy- my local friend who lives in Bangkok says that everyone gets the shits here.  If it's not coming out both ends it's not the Tummy.  Tonsai Tummy in that case may just be plain old food poisoning.  I've only been eating at the resort and mama chickens and have not had the Tummy.  I did have the shits my first three or four days and ate very little for three of those.  I tried taking activated charcoal which didn't help.  Probiotic capsules are probably the most likely to keep it off..  a few of my friends are fortunate and didn't suffer.

A small handful of people here have had the full on tum...

Thanks for this info! If we stay/eat in Railay are we less succeptible to the Tonsai Tummy? Or does it really not matter Tonsai vs Railay? 

Tonsai is alive and well, it is just now back in the jungle a bit. There are many different rumors about what is going to be built inside of the wall. Some people claim mega resort, others say simple bungalows. Either way, it doesn't seem to be happening fast. Still plenty of trash, but the beach front is actually fairly clean now.

 I'm usually very prone to getting food poisoining (I got it twice in Indo shortly after leaving Thailand), but didn't have a problem in Tonsai (mostly eating at Mama's). That said, it's hit or miss, and I did see Mama washing the lettuce for the chicken sandwich under sink water, so steer clear of uncooked veggies. Load up on probiotics a few weeks before you go, and I would carry a supply of antibiotics.

I wouldn't recommend staying in Railay, it is super touristy these days and the vibe is a world apart from Tonsai. You're definitely less likely to get food poisoning over there (and there is some pretty good food), but it's not worth staying there in my opinion. Tonsai still is mostly climbers/backpackers, and is cheaper. 

Koh Yao Noi (and Koh Phi Phi) climbing is good to go, except I'm not sure if access has been re-established to the grateful wall. Deep water soloing trips in general have stopped, except for Tonsai Basecamp's trip, but they won't take you to the best walls since it is illegal. You can still check out some of the stuff via kayak.

Feel free to shoot me a message if you're after more info.

Thanks for the updates. Good to hear Momma's chicken is still in business. That was my go to place back in 2011.