Best Place to Learn How to Climb

Every few months, seemingly, I find my way back to this classic on YouTube - 

The video starts with the statement that there is probably no better place in the world than Yosemite to learn how to climb. This got me thinking; I've never been there, but my guess is that most climbers, even those of us who have never been, would agree with the statement based on the history and reputation. But for technical rock climbing (excluding alpine) is there some place that contends with or unseats Yosemite as the best place to learn and improve at climbing? Or put another way, if you learn in Yosemite (or any other location) will it ensure that you will probably climb well anywhere?

There are several different kinds of climbing. Which one(s) do you want to learn?

What's your big goal?

MClay wrote:

if you learn in Yosemite (or any other location) will it ensure that you will probably climb well anywhere?

Yosemite is a great place to learn Yosemite-style climbing, especially slabs and cracks.

Not much good if your goal is to get to the summit of big Himalaya or Andes peak.

Not much good if your goal is to climb a 5.12 overhanging limestone or sandstone sport route.

Yosemite might be one of the more expensive places to learn.

Ken

Yosemite is a terrible place for beginners, UNLESS you have an experienced mentor. I taught myself to climb one summer in yosemite and got into quite a few hairy situations. A great place to learn slab and crack climbing. I still climb slab a full number grade higher than most other styles

Anywhere is fine to learn to climb as long as you have an experienced mentor (because an experienced mentor will not take a new climber to a dangerous area outside their limit).

All the most important stuff I practice at home. ;@

Horseshoe canyon Ranch in Arkansas is probably the best beginner crag I've ever been to. There are tons of single pitch moderates and all the popular routes are permadrawed, or at least at the anchors, regardless of how steep they are. The bolt spacing is nice, the approach is zero, and the climber atmosphere is top-notch. The routes aren't super exposed, so you can practice climbing harder when your head is in the game. That said, HCR is a bit off the beaten path, but once you get there they have everything you need. 

That being said, this is the best place to learn how to climb. If you want to learn how to climb or improve on other styles, than you are probably already familiar with climbing and can seek other destinations. 

You mean best place to learn to climb beside Mountain Project? (ha ha)

I don't think it matters, as long as you have someone experienced to teach you and keep you safe. 

A young woman friend of mine had been “climbing” for about one year or so... Bouldering, sport climbing... leading some 5.9 some trips to Josh, Bishop etc. 

Due to her work changing owners she was forced to cash in all her PTO... the place was going to be closed for 40 days then re-open, with her back at work. She was going to be off work for May and part of June. 

She asked me a question. 

What do I need to do to get better as a climber??

Without hesitation I told her “go spend the month of May in the Valley” 

Well she did... she figured out the camping and she figured out the bouldering and that helped her meet other climbers. And she went climbing a lot. Before her little climbing vacation was over she was able to swing leads on the Nutcracker and do a camp to camp climb of 1/2 Dome via snakedike.... 

Now I have another partner who can haul ass up climbs, knows how to set up good anchors on gear quickly, knows how to bail, and most importantly  knows how to protect the second.... me. 

So yes, if you really want to learn how to climb... go to the Valley 

Well that’s really weird that John Long would say that (no better place to learn than Yosemite) because John and his posse actually learned at Stoney Point in Chatsworth, CA.

Just like the legends before him.

I'd say that the Valley is a great place to learn, but it is also crowded and intimidating.  I'd say that Red Rock Canyon outside of Las Vegas gets my vote for best learning environment.  Lots of space, wide variety of climbing (easy sport cragging, top notch bouldering, and wild big wall adventure routes).  I find RR to be much more forgiving than Yosemite as many of the route developers bolted routes with the intention of guiding people up them.  This means that most routes feel safe, even to beginners, and that they might come across as soft compared to Valley grades.  

RR is also easy access from an international airport, less crowded, easy camping situations, excellent distractions from climbing, and offers a very friendly social environment, all things that Yosemite tends to miss.  

As with all things, YMMV.  I am, admittedly, biased as I cut my climbing teeth learning how to place gear and lead multi-pitch at Red Rocks.  

IcePick wrote:

Well that’s really weird that John Long would say that (no better place to learn than Yosemite) because John and his posse actually learned at Stoney Point in Chatsworth, CA.

Just like the legends before him.

Learn the ropes at Stoney.....   so you can go to the Valley and do some REAL climbing. 

Been that way since 1932....   

Guy Keesee wrote:

Learn the ropes at Stoney.....   so you can go to the Valley and do some REAL climbing. 

Been that way since 1932....   

Totally agree Guy. 

Maybe some will throw rocks at me (haha) but I would be tempted to say the gym.

I don't mean to say you should learn how to climb ONLY at a gym - but I think it's frankly a good place to start. In my experience, outdoors crags are not often really bolted with beginners in mind - people who spend days drills in hands are typically hard climbers. They do bolt easier routes too - but they are still hard climbers and may at times not quite remember what beginning to climb is like. Their primary motivation is also not always to make accessible crags for beginner climbers, but to bolt stuff they are interested in climbing themselves (and who would blame them - it is an altruistic thing to do in the end). So easier climbs may be fairly spread out, and or not at the crags your better climbing buddies are interested in. You can't necessarily top rope all that easily outdoors either - so either you have a rope gun willing to do it for you, or you get on with sketchy first leads.

There's also a lot to learn just to really be able to climb autonomously outside. To me, it is simpler and in the end probably faster to start mostly indoors, with the gradual addition of outdoor climbing as you go. Get the technics and the shape indoor is not a bad way to do it. Then you can learn the important and potentially dangerous elements about leading outside, setting/cleaning routes, etc.

You're also likely to be able to find climbing buddies to go outdoors there, too.

You got to look at it this way too:

babysteps:

first, read, watch videos about footwork, hand placements, how to move fluidly in your moves, not sketchy oh shit moves.

second, go bouldering to practice said moves.

third, start top roping with some capable partners learning knot work, solid anchoring, now your getting height, exposure, confidence.

fourth, arming yourself further with more knot work, anchoring and rope handling you can transition into lead climbing starting small like 5.6-5.8 stuff.

fifth, so now your lead climbing well into the 5.10+ realm, you can gain more knowledge and start rope solo projects, this is when you really awaken your senses, all alone high on the wall, it’s all you.

I know I’m off topic but it’s more or less a side topic.

Franck Vee wrote:

Maybe some will throw rocks at me (haha) but I would be tempted to say the gym.

This place looks like a good place to start. It looks to perfectly blend the benefits of indoors and out!

Guy Keesee wrote:

A young woman friend of mine had been “climbing” for about one year or so... Bouldering, sport climbing... leading some 5.9 some trips to Josh, Bishop etc. 

Due to her work changing owners she was forced to cash in all her PTO... the place was going to be closed for 40 days then re-open, with her back at work. She was going to be off work for May and part of June. 

She asked me a question. 

What do I need to do to get better as a climber??

Without hesitation I told her “go spend the month of May in the Valley” 

Well she did... she figured out the camping and she figured out the bouldering and that helped her meet other climbers. And she went climbing a lot. Before her little climbing vacation was over she was able to swing leads on the Nutcracker and do a camp to camp climb of 1/2 Dome via snakedike.... 

Now I have another partner who can haul ass up climbs, knows how to set up good anchors on gear quickly, knows how to bail, and most importantly  knows how to protect the second.... me. 

So yes, if you really want to learn how to climb... go to the Valley 

Trolling right?

Guy, that's one of the rightest things I've read on the proj.

Viper, why are you always so wrong? Why don't you try being right sometimes, like Guy here? 

You know you are completely right showing up without knowing anyone at yosemite for 40 days straight is a much better plan than showing up at some other climbing area with someone who knows what they are doing!

Ryan Hill wrote:

Red Rock Canyon outside of Las Vegas gets my vote for best learning environment.  Lots of space, wide variety of climbing (easy sport cragging, top notch bouldering, and wild big wall adventure routes).  . . .  RR is also easy access from an international airport, less crowded, easy camping situations, excellent distractions from climbing, and offers a very friendly social environment, all things that Yosemite tends to miss.  

Red Rock NV -- Yes for all the good reasons Ryan mentioned. Also I'd add that it has some great long scramble / short-rope routes close to parking. And in easy driving range of limestone for variety of rock types (with even more variety around St George UT and Zion N.P.)

Summer perhaps it's not such a good choice (since the cooler crags at altitude tend to lack easy+moderate climbing).

For summer might consider the Eastside Sierra around Mammoth Lakes and BIshop California (especially now with the new easy stuff opened by June Lake), so there's quick access to easy-moderate climbing of three very different fun rock types (granite, volcanic, quartzite). Some great multi-pitch with short access on Cardinal Pinnacle (also some other options) -- also farther (overnight?) access to some with the nicest approach trails. Also Mammoth or June is well within driving range of Tuolumne Meadows (if still feel the need for a dose of slab climbing, maybe some jam-cracks?), and to famous easy/moderate rock routes on Cathedral Peak and Mt Conness and Bear Creek Spire. Lots of camping options (better than Red Rock in summer).

. . . Main drawback is that the Eastside is a long way driving from a major airport - (but 4 days a week you can fly there after a stop at LAX).

Ken

P.S. the slabs and jam-cracks (and off-widths) which Yosemite is great for learning are _not_ what most young climbers nowadays think are in the "top three" styles of the funnest outdoor climbing.

ViperScale wrote:

You know you are completely right showing up without knowing anyone at yosemite for 40 days straight is a much better plan than showing up at some other climbing area with someone who knows what they are doing!

Viper.... not to argue with you. And no not a troll.... That was /is a true story.

I think as soon as you know how to belay and rap on your own....   the first baby steps, as icepick points out. 

Then it is really best to go climbing with out the use of bolts and to climb grand things-- not hard things. Go climb the Royal Arches with somebody as green as you-- have a adventure. Heck it was the right side of Monday Morning slab... a bold 5.4 was my first lead, while we figured out those nut things and how not to make a big ass rope snarl. 

The Valley is not the only place, go to the Gunks... Boulder, Red Rocks anyplace.. but go climb something to get up in the fresh air. 

And I do know there are other ways and places to get into this sport, but the OP is asking for "the best place" and I gave them the best answer I can think of.

So no troll... when and if I troll, you will not be able to resist the large flashing thingies....  

The best place to learn to climb is where you can actually climb with people who can help you learn in a safe environment.  It does no good for a So Cal person who has a job to try and learn in Yosemite.  There are amazing crags within an hour or 2 from anywhere in the LA area with a variety of terrain, so you can climb to your heart's (and finger's) content.