Moving to Charleston, SC. Am I screwed?

So the fiance and I are going to be moving to Charleston, South Carolina around February next year. I don't climb as much as I used to but I'm still hanging onto the idea that I can. However a quick search on the route guide shows 28 total routes for the whole state, and they're concentrated to the northwestern end of the state. Am I stuck with just going on multi day trips to North Carolina or out West? Or are there some hidden gems in the lowcountry that I haven't found?

They have an outdoor climbing wall on James Island which looks pretty cool and it'll be pretty close to where we'll be moving to, but I like real rock.

yeah, get used to the idea of 4+ hour trips.  But at least you can go to the beach!

Congratulations and condolences.

climbing friend,

gross.

all your flash are belong to me.

Total outdoor climbing wasteland. Good food though.

I've lived in Charleston for several years and climbed at James Island during most of those.  There is a bouldering gym, but I've only been there once due to the relatively high cost, no roped climbing, and fact that I had a membership to the JI wall.  So, I won't comment any further on the bouldering gym.

JICP Wall Pros: 

It's cheap!  I think it cost less than $300 for an annual membership. 

It's 50ft tall and you can lead on several of the 12-14 ropes.  They even provide ropes for you to lead with at no charge.

They have 3 or 4 autobelays.  This is a new thing.  I think they might be moving away from providing human belayers as part of your day pass, but I'm not sure.

Cons:

Mosquitoes!  This wall is outdoors and in a wetland area.  There are mosquitoes from March to December at the least.  It is unbearable during the height of the summer because repealant doesn't help and it's so hot/humid you can't comfortably wear too much clothing.

Infrequent maintenance and setting.  I went a 1-3 times a week for the past year (excluding this summer)  and I would estimate that  a new route goes up about every month or two. The bouldering cave never gets set. They don't have very inspiring sequences of holds.  Many holds are really old.

Heat & humidity

There range of difficulty is also limited at JI.  I would say 75% of the climbs were 5.10 to 5.12. and the other 25% were the same 5.9s that never get replaced.

As far as gyms go, the bouldering gym in Charleston is nice, and I heard recently of one going up in Aiken-- to be confirmed. As far as real rock beyond what's already out there, get to know people. Access in the Carolinas is a very, very difficult thing. Don't expect to see guidebooks or online beta.  There are psyched people in Charleston, Columbia, and Greenville/Spartanburg who make trips and climb outside a lot. 

Seth Monteleone wrote:

yeah, get used to the idea of 4+ hour trips.  But at least you can go to the beach!

What's wrong with 4 hour trips? Everyone from the Bay Area that climbs in Yosemite does this on the regular. 

Thanks for the responses guys. I'll be coming down a couple times in January for interviews and I definitely plan on going to the JI wall at least once in those trips to check it out. What's the usual destination for climbing trips in that area?

Maybe ask if you can be a route setter? It's fun, a good workout, and really makes you think about the climb and climbing moves!

Best, OLH

Eplumer400 wrote:

Thanks for the responses guys. I'll be coming down a couple times in January for interviews and I definitely plan on going to the JI wall at least once in those trips to check it out. What's the usual destination for climbing trips in that area?

Depends on what your discipline is. As far as ropes go, trad gets the most friction, but bouldering is also a big deal too. Just depends- what's your game?

AField wrote:

Depends on what your discipline is. As far as ropes go, trad gets the most friction, but bouldering is also a big deal too. Just depends- what's your game?

I've really only top roped, usually on my own because I work a weird schedule and my one climbing buddy just left for basic (army). I want to get into sport though so the JI wall will probably be my best bet until I get used to clipping.

Eplumer400 wrote:

I've really only top roped, usually on my own because I work a weird schedule and my one climbing buddy just left for basic (army). I want to get into sport though so the JI wall will probably be my best bet until I get used to clipping.

Sure, absolutely.  A lot of folks in the area clip bolts at Crowder's Mountain, near Charlotte. It's got some good, moderate sport and top-roping, even if some of it is sharp. The next closest area would probably be Chattanooga.

AField wrote:

Sure, absolutely.  A lot of folks in the area clip bolts at Crowder's Mountain, near Charlotte. It's got some good, moderate sport and top-roping, even if some of it is sharp. The next closest area would probably be Chattanooga.

Cool, definitely worth checking out. When the time comes I'll try for a Friday interview so I can take the long way home and maybe stop there to check it out too.

AField wrote:

As far as gyms go, the bouldering gym in Charleston is nice, and I heard recently of one going up in Aiken-- to be confirmed. As far as real rock beyond what's already out there, get to know people. Access in the Carolinas is a very, very difficult thing. Don't expect to see guidebooks or online beta.  There are psyched people in Charleston, Columbia, and Greenville/Spartanburg who make trips and climb outside a lot. 

Access is a very, very difficult thing? There are multiple areas listed on MP, sand everal guidebooks to N.C. and SC areas. Big Rock outside of Pickens is probably the closest thing to Charleston, good too rope, sport, trad and bouldering. You can pick up a guidebook link and more info here http://carolinaclimbers.org/climbing-areas/big-rock.html

Brian Payst wrote:

Access is a very, very difficult thing? There are multiple areas listed on MP, sand everal guidebooks to N.C. and SC areas. Big Rock outside of Pickens is probably the closest thing to Charleston, good too rope, sport, trad and bouldering. You can pick up a guidebook link and more info here http://carolinaclimbers.org/climbing-areas/big-rock.html

Lol beyond what's already published for South Carolina, yes. Maybe what I meant to say was that sometimes information can be difficult to find.

kevin deweese wrote:

What's wrong with 4 hour trips? Everyone from the Bay Area that climbs in Yosemite does this on the regular. 

Nothing, I just said get used to it.  Also his 4 hour trips will be to shitty crags as the shortest drive, you guys get Yosemite sooooo.

Could get a hangboard or build your own small wall indoors?

Seth Monteleone wrote:

Nothing, I just said get used to it.  Also his 4 hour trips will be to shitty crags as the shortest drive, you guys get Yosemite sooooo.

Looking Glass rock is awesome, as good if not better than many Tuolumne Domes

kevin deweese wrote:

Looking Glass rock is awesome, as good if not better than many Tuolumne Domes

Yeah it’s closer to charleston than I thought only 4 1/2.  Heading there myself in November. Rumbling bald is awesome too 3h 54m OP, I would recommend that up until April/may.