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Looking for advice - weight training workout in addition to climbing/running
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So my current workout routine involves climbing at a rock gym 2-3 times a week and running 3-4 times per week. There is an old school weight room near where I work (free weights, kettle bells, benches, no machines). I am looking at doing a quick 20 minute workout there 2 times per week before work. My goal for the work out is injury prevention and to work on some muscle groups neglected by climbing. Does any one have advice on what exercises or muscle groups I should work on? Thanks. |
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buy the eric horst book on training for climbing...great guide to injury prevention and increasing overall strength. Steve Bechtel has written some great info on supplemental resistance training also. |
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I'll second the Eric Horst book: The Rock Climbers Exercise Guide. It is sitting on my desk right now. strength training is really great for working the opposing muscles that you don't usually work when climbing. It's also helpful for boosting strength in supporting muscles as well as stimulating muscle growth in the off season. He lays out a good plan for periodization for climbers. As for personal advice, I've found working my shoulders, chest and triceps to be good. Doing dips helps to be more confident on the periodic mantle move. Military press keeps shoulders strong for some of those tweaky moves that feel like maybe you shouldn't do them because you'r shoulder feels like you're doing damage. Pec flyes help with those tough gaston moves that don't get done that often, but you really need it when you do. Other triceps and chest exercises help to keep your body balanced and help those stemming moves to be more confident. |
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Two words: Steve Bechtel. Check out his website, Climbstrong.com He has many great articles about resistance training. |
Ryan Hamilton wrote: How do you suppose pec flies, a chest exercise, helps with gaston moves, which are primarily a posterior delt/lat/back movement? I'd avoid dips for the triceps work because over time they will put a lot of stress on your AC joint. I say that as someone who used to rep out 3-4 sets of 30 reps and paid the price. Almost everyone leans way forward when doing dips and that position combined with the neutral grip (i.e. palms facing each other) puts many people into a bad geometry from an AC joint perspective. Lots of other ways to work tris that don't grind on your AC - cable pushdowns, lying extensions with the ez curl bar, close grip bench, diamond pushups, etc. |
Will S wrote: Sorry, I my brain stopped working for a minute. Insert compression for gaston. |
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high intensity, low rep, opposition muscle group exercises. |
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Core. Bench. Deadlift. Squat |
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Thanks for the advice, everyone. I am planning on doing (2) 20 minute sessions per week. Day one: Core and legs workout Day two: chest and tris How does that sound? |
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Just don't do single-joint movements that isolate muscles (i.e. triceps). Isolating triceps would be a waste of time since you want the most bank-for-your-buck since you only have 20 minute sessions. If you're not including overhead barbell press, include that rather than doing tricep-only exercises. Or do dips on rings. Depending on whether you do finger strength-training, you may want to incorporate reverse wrist-curls to balance out your forearms. If you are also doing climbing-specific training you have to take into account the effect each lift is going to have on the recovery for your climbing-related muscles. Plan your schedule accordingly. |
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In 20 minutes you will have a hard time even getting warmed up much less get a decent workout in. With only 2 sessions a week you will see very minimal gains if you try to do any isolation work or split routines. If I only had 20 minutes twice a week I would do 3 sets of DL and 3 sets of KB press both days which will get you close to a full body workout in a minimal amount of time. Try to fit in some single leg squats with body weight and some Ab rollouts on another couple days at home to round things out if you find it's needed. |
Pete G. wrote: You should look into I's, Y's, and T's to strengthen your shoulders and prevent shoulder injuries. |
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climbing friend, the weight training it will not help you on the climbing rocks, only to prove your dominance when flexing in front of mirror staring at yourownself |
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20 min, twice a week workout, for "prehab"/injury prevention/"muscular balance": 8min rice bucket series (google Steve Edwards rice bucket for a decent video demo) 2 sets band pull-aparts (a scapular retraction move) 2 sets external rotations w/bands (rotator cuff) 2 sets sledgehammer pronators, using only the lowering movement (anti-epicondylitis work) 1-2 sets "wall angels" (another lower trap/scapular retraction/rhomboid move) |
aikibujin wrote: YAS!!!!! ITYs are my jam! They make you feel amazing after a climbing workout. After many years training for climbing, the only real way I have seen benefit from weight lifting is at the end of a climbing session. I tend to put them at the end of ARC or Power Endurance workouts (limit bouldering is too intense on my CNS to think to weightlift after). Otherwise, there is not enough time in the week to recover from climbing workouts + separate weight lifting workouts. Weight Lifting is ancillary work for us as climbers and should be treated that way....you'll improve as a climber with deeper stretches of good solid rest than you would punctuating your rest periods with short weight lifting sessions imo |
Aleks Zebastian wrote: Climbing Friend Aleks, disagree completely. Climbing is in itself an imbalanced workout (despite what many climbers will tell you). Imbalances will occur without resistance exercise added in to all the pec/lat activation we do as climbers....there is a reason many climbers are anterior dominant strength wise.... |
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Download or borrow from the Library a copy of Starting Strength by Rippletoe. It's super simple and pretty much every athlete will stand to benefit from ~6 months of linear progression with weight training as outlined in the book. Don't just read the workout routine online, the book is a textbook on how to do compound lifts safely and correctly, you want a good reference manual and this is it. You can get the whole workout done in about 50 minutes x3 per week. You'll find any weaknesses in your muscles immediatly and be forced to train them. You might put on a bit of weight (don't go crazy with it though, 10-20 lbs over 6 months is ample depending on where you are now). It's worth it in the long term if you're serious about training since you can drop the weight later and the extra muscle will be kept where it's needed. Your climbing will get worse before it gets better though. |
Pete G. wrote: FTFY. You can add overhead pressing, but these 4 are the most important |
5.samadhi wrote: climbing friend, yes, because it helps with a the climbing - since all you would be utilizing is pulling crushing, punishing grip of dominant gorilla exploding skull of lesser animal with crushing palm |
Pete G. wrote: I'd make sure you do squats/deadlifts BEFORE core, or really, any exercise the requires decent core engagement. I'm curious though, what kind of core exercises are you thinking that require you to be in the weight room? I'd think you can do 90% of the core specific exercises with no more than a TRX setup at home. |
aikibujin wrote: Thanks, I think I will use this as an interval between other exercises. |
