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Mountaineering Boot Reviews

Original Post
Jordan Moore · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2011 · Points: 60

I'm in the market for a good all round mountain boot that will last as I move up through the WI and mixed grades and has the potential to be a good choice for expeditions in Patagonia. If I was deciding between the La Sportiva Nepal and the La Sportiva Gatura what would fit this description better? Would the Gatura be overkill? Open to suggestions for other boots as well, these were just the standout boots. 

Max Forbes · · Colorado · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 108

Baturas are by far superior to the nepals in every aspect except durability. I've owned and used both and the difference is very notable. In particular, the batura is lighter and warmer. If your looking for the superior option it's the Batura. If your climbing hard ice and mixed routes, it's really only overkill if it's 20 degrees or above, in which case you might find them too warm for the day.  While I haven't been to Patagonia, they do seem to be the summer boot of choice for hard climbing down there. 

Luke Lydiard · · Mammoth Lakes, CA · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 1,069

I've also climbed in both the Batura and Nepals and agree with Max, the Batura is lighter, warmer and less durable. Besides the durability, the Nepal also offers more ankle support than  the Batura, which is nice if you are climbing lots of steep waterfall ice or front pointing up super long couloirs. For lots of walking or mixed terrain I prefer the ankle flexibility of the Batura. 

The Batura has more or less been replaced by the G5 by the way. I just replaced my Baturas with the new G5s and have a few days in them. Compared with the Baturas the G5s are slightly lighter, pretty similar in warmth and likely even less durable. I already had a Boa anchor fail. I'm expecting La Sportiva to warranty them. 

I'm selling my used 44.0 Baturas for $250 if you are interested. I also have a pair of very lightly used 44.0 Trango Extreme GTX Silver Bullets(pictured below) for $225 or a pair of nearly new 44.0 Trango Primes for $200. If anybody is interested get in touch and I will get you some more photos.  

Jordan Moore · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2011 · Points: 60

Thanks for the input. I wish I could buy those used boots! I need a size 46. 

Brian BH · · Maine · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 45

I don't think they make the baturas anymore, but if I recall but I think they are actually an oz or 2 heavier then the nepals.  I use the Nepal cube, which might be the best of both worlds for you.  Lighter and warmer then the standard Nepal, and only a little more $, they climb ice very well and hike great when lightly laced.  Never been to Patagonia, but if the temp is nearing 30, they can get a little too warm.  

Jordan Moore · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2011 · Points: 60

Thanks Brian. I've done some research as well. Nepal cube seems to be the best all around boot.

Luke Lydiard · · Mammoth Lakes, CA · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 1,069

La Sportiva sent me a new pair of G5s to replace the one that broke. Hopefully the new pair will last longer. 

Here are some photos of the boots I'm selling if anybody is interested.

travispowell · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 75

I've loved my Phantom Guides since the day they arrived in the mail. Warm, dry, comfortable, and they look cool, which is the only reason I bought them. 

David Lottmann · · Conway, NH · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 152

Arcteryx Acrux AR are pretty damn sweet! Checkout my in-depth review of them here: https://northeastalpinestart.com/2017/02/21/gear-review-arcteryx-acrux-ar-mountaineering-boots/

Ryan Marsters · · Golden, CO · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 1,436

Don't the Batura 2.0s and Nepals have the same sole? The rands and soles are wearing faster on my Baturas than they did on my old Nepals, but if the new Nepals have the same, then durability is moot. I don't have any durability issues with the uppers, except perhaps negligible delamination. But I also approach and talus hop as much as possible in trail runners and switch out.

Otherwise, my Baturas were a huge improvement over the Nepals with respect to technical ability, warmth-to-weight, and feet staying dry.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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