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Choosing a light sport climbing harness
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I am looking to buy a new sport climbing harness for hard (at the limit or even slightly beyond) one pitch routes as well as indoors training sessions. Thus it should be light, equipped with two handy gear loops for quickdraws and a convenient gear loop(s) for aux items ("shit happens" quickdraw and a locking binner for lowering while climbing, belay device and belay gloves while on the ground), do not distract from climbing, has no bells and whistles, and be durable (see below). Right now I am about to retire my two years old Petzl Hirundos due to excessive wear of the lower tie-in point which got frayed in a mere couple seasons which is kinda inadmissible. Another drawback of Hirundos is easily breakable front gear loops (which is not that bad, there is virtually no difference in real climbing situation whether they are broken or not). I like Hirundos design a lot (buckle on the left, big molded front gear loops for QDs and small soft back gear loops for aux items, light and comfy). Although there is no point in buying yet another disposable harness to my trash bin pleasure. Another more or less evident option is CAMP Flash. Gear loops seem to be fine (big molded front at the front and soft at the back). Although backle on the right could be a show stopper (see below). Edelrid Cyrus is equipped with the same buckle and webbing as my trad harness Edelrid Orion. Everything else is fine about Orion, although this webbing is going in the way every time you really need to grab that cam fast. OK, I solve the problem by hiding the webbing's tail under the belt. Obviously this is not an option for sport (read: mostly shirtless) climbing. Arcteryx SL-340. Everything is nice about Arcteryx harnesses in general. Although this particular harness has no gear loops for aux items (this shit on the back is just dangerous and should be cut off - I love my spine and not comfortable with placing hard metal stuff close to my vertebras). Yet one more option on my radar is Mammut Zephir. Two big plastic front gear loops, two soft back gear loops, plastic protector on the lower tie-in loop - everything fits fine with me. It seems there are only two options to choose from right now: Mammut Zephir and CAMP Flash. Obvious enough I am missing something. What else should be considered? |
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Hey, I don't have any knowledge of the Zephir or FLASH, but I'd say take a look at the BD Solution harness. I love mine. Super comfy, light, small packing size. |
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CAMP Flash is crazy light. Love it. Work in it on long days with long approaches---pretty damn comfortable, too, for such a minimalist harness. Alpine version awesome, too! Good luck, Pavel! |
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Look at the Petzl Sitta lightweight at ~9oz, I like the adjustable sliders on the gear loops, the dyneema construction makes it durable and light. Not an issue for sport climbing but on BIG climbs with a double rack is the only time I have found this harness uncomfortable, otherwise it's so comfortable you forget it's even on. |
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Isn't the Petzl Sitta supposed to be one of the lightest? Expensive, though. To be honest, I've never noticed much of a difference with harness weight, but maybe I don't climb hard enough. Do you notice a difference in single pitch sport? Packability for mountaineering I get, but for single pitch I prefer something comfortable like a Misty, even if the gear loops are overkill for sport climbing. |
Ted Pinson wrote: Me either. Light for me is more about bulk - how it feels (the best possible is to feel nothing). If I feel it like as a second skin it is light :) |
Alexander Stathis wrote: BD harnesses are huge. I have tried some BD harness in the smallest size available. They are too big(striked out) too huge for me. Also don't like BD gear loops. |
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Mammut Togir is pretty light, I found it more comfortable than the Zephir hanging in a shop. Thin belay loop though if you're cragging I wouldn't expect it to last long, that's the tradeoff. Packs up small too. I compared the two for an alpine harness and thought the Togir was better. I'm not sure an extra 50-100 harness grams will be the difference between send and flail but idk what sport climbing is about beyond yelling venga. |
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Check out the new BD Zone Harness ive had mine for a couple months or so mainly big alpine routes but sport as well its light packs small and is comfy |
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Kirtis Courkamp wrote: How is it compared to an arc'teryx harness? It looks as fine and flexible though i haven't handled it in person. |
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CAMP Flash seems unbelievably light! Would be curious to try it someday. |
Lena chita wrote: He-he. This is something I have totally missed out. That's right, FL-365 covers my needs. Also I can use it for trad cragging and easier alpine routes. And I know it is very light, packable and feels comfortable. Thanks a lot! |
Pavel Burov wrote: I've been using an FL-365 heavily for everything and couldn't be happier. Flexible and not even noticeable when doing more "acrobatic" heel hooking on a sport route, distributes weight well for hanging belays (wouldn't be my big wall aid choice), can hold a double to triple rack, packable for alpine, comfy to walk across some glaciers in. |
Pavel Burov wrote: If you're going that route might as well get the AR instead. it's 2 leg buckles heavier than the FL |
Jon Frisby wrote: The nylon adjuster at the leg loop tends to abrade when you're climbing the wide stuff, but this is my gripe with most all adjustable leg loop harnesses. |
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Just get whatever's comfortable and fits you. Plus or minus 100 or 200 grams is never, ever going to make a difference. |
Nick Drake wrote: Although fair point I am not sure how much wide stuff you are finding sport climbing. |
Parker Wrozek wrote: I only mentioned that because further down in the thread Pavel said, "Also I can use it for trad cragging and easier alpine routes." in reference to the dead bird harness. This is bolted, can I call it sport climbing now? :) https://www.mountainproject.com/v/107720754 |
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fair point again. I am not really wanting to carry a bunch of wide gear on a light weight sport harness though. As for that route...no comment |
Parker Wrozek wrote: I just threw that route in as a joke, it takes gear up to and above the blue big bro size crag. |
