Arcteryx Alpha SV?

Any thoughts on the Alpha SV being a good all around winter shell if you could only afford one? Has anyone had any experience with it backcountry skiing?

The Alpha SV is an amazing jacket, I use it for skiing. It is overkill 95% of the time when I'm not skiing. I'll bring it if it's colder and I expect rain, but I wont use it ice climbing unless its really drippy. I think you could get away with a much lighter jacket, unless you are really going hard in rough conditions. 

You don't really need waterproofs in winter for skiing if your region is generally below 0.  

That said, it'll do fine, but almost every shell on the market that's cheaper will do the same job just as well. Most people just wear a hardshell to block wind in winter. I ski in an OR Helium sometimes if it's super windy and it's held up well, but I'm able to avoid scraping most trees and rocks. I find wearing a wind shirt is just as comfortable, but it really depends on how you tour. 

Light is right when you're carrying everything uphill. 

Other more breathable fabrics are much better if you usually wear your shell on the up. 

Other options for you to consider: I just got both the Mountain Hardwear Cyclone Jacket and the Patagonia Descentionist jacket. (I'll be returning one). But, I'm INCREDIBLY impressed with both of them. If you're looking for something that will work well for backcountry touring I would consider one of these over the Arc'teryx SV. The shells are both some kind of Neo shell, so not as hard as the SV, but still plenty water resistant especially for skiing. They will both breathe well and be good at keeping any moisture out. Both will work really well for ice or alpine climbing as well. I think the Mountain Hardwear Cyclone might edge out the Patagonia jacket because it has big pit zip vents and a nice liner. But they are both great, like REALLY great. The Mtn Hardwear is pretty true to size, the Patagonia jacket is big for the size so go down one size if you're borderline between 2 sizes. 

I have both the Alpha SV and the Alpha FL and I FAR prefer the Alpha FL. Especially if you're going to be backcountry skiing and working some. Like stated, the SV is overkill 95% of the time... My FL gets way more use... The alpha FL is my favorite hardshell by a long shot. It really is a perfect climbing hardshell. 

I think any of these jackets will do fine for both sports. I'm personally going to be using one of the jackets that I bought for both sports. I should perform really well for both since the requirements for both are similar. Breathe well, while keeping me dry from outside moisture. Good articulation in the arms and nice pocket features. I think more climbing jackets can move over the line to be good ski jackets than ski oriented jackets do with crossing over to do well for climbing. 

The alpha SV is great for ice climbing since it's the most durable shell arcteryx or anyone makes. It is however shorter than most other ARX pieces. It's a little to heavy and bulky for backcountry touring most of the time I feel like. For skiing I like using a beta LT hybrid. Tougher shoulders where there would be a pack and lighter body. The SV is nice when climbing ice and you have a lot of sharp stuff on or near your jacket. The SV is the most durable jacket they offer in any line. 

After owning the Alpha SV and the Alpha FL, I also think the SV is overkill for everything I have ever done in the backcountry.  The Alpha FL has handled everything I've ever thrown at it and is no worse for wear.  I've never thought to myself, "Shit, I wish I had the Alpha SV and not my Alpha FL on today!"  My recommendation - save your money.  No Gore-Tex-only shell, IMO, is worth $750. Plus, you save close to seven/eight ounces with the Alpha FL compared to the ballistic armor of the Alpha SV.  Additionally, I've used the Alpha SV and Alpha FL for both skiing and ice/alpine climbing.  The Alpha FL will serve you very well in both sports at *almost* half the cost of the Alpha SV.

I have the AR version but frequently wonder if the trimmer fitting FL would be better most of the time. I don't really care about the pit zips, I typically will be using another layer (wind shirt or soft shell) for highly aerobic activities. 

I also have the SV and the FL. I use the FL very often, and the SV in the occasion when I know the weather is going to be hard but I'm still going out anyways. 

I've skied Colorado, the Wasatch, and the Cascades and climbed in all those places plus the Tetons, Patagonia, etc. 

Almost everytime full Goretex anything is overkill. But when you really need Goretex it's a great tool. Try to honestly assess how often you anticipate skiing or climbing in the rain, or in a whiteout/grayout, or when temps are right at freezing. This is when a full hardshell is most effective and also when most people stay home. Incidentally, if you'll only be out for a day anyway, you can often just go home and dry everything out. So, for most people not on multi-day ventures, gore is overkill.

That said, I have an Alpha LT I use for climbing (the version before they switched over to calling it FL). I use the Procline comp for skiing, mostly for the downhill, or for when the "uphill" involves actual climbing. Both are great for these purposes and given the quality of construction I expect them to last me a fairly long time.

For the love of God just buy the Alpha FL, its is P-E-R-F-E-C-T .... and I would say the FL is the best climbing shell hands down.. the SV is the best when you're heavily layering and its freezing cold, and you don't care about weight and packability... it's as bombproof as they come, but I stay just as dry and cooler in the FL... The SV and AR NEED the pitzips, the FL is one of the few gtx shells that really doesn't need pit zips in my opinion.

Ty Falk wrote:

The alpha SV is great for ice climbing since it's the most durable shell arcteryx or anyone makes. It is however shorter than most other ARX pieces. It's a little to heavy and bulky for backcountry touring most of the time I feel like. For skiing I like using a beta LT hybrid. Tougher shoulders where there would be a pack and lighter body. The SV is nice when climbing ice and you have a lot of sharp stuff on or near your jacket. The SV is the most durable jacket they offer in any line. 

The alpha SV is massive in comparison to the other alpha shells... I'm 6'3" and have a large SV and FL and the SV covers my ass completely. 

Another vote for the FL here.  Like some of the other posters, I have both, and the FL is the jacket I bring 95+% of the time.  For strictly climbing, the FL is definitely the better jacket as it is a more trim and snug cut and doesn't get in the way as much as the looser fitting SV.  As far as durability concerns go, if you're climbing ice, there is zero to worry about as the medium you're climbing is not abrasive at all and I have yet to snag my jacket with tool picks, screws, or crampons (though pants are a different story, lol).

Should you ever want to bring a hardshell as a just in case item, the FL is again better as it is lighter and packs down way smaller.  I can see the SV being better for downhill/resort skiing but that is about it.

So what do you guys think about the Alpha AR? It's pretty safe to say that I've ruled the SV out. At the same time, I just don't know enough the FL. Other then it's great for ice, but I see myself climbing more then just ice.

Derek DeBruin wrote:

I've skied Colorado, the Wasatch, and the Cascades and climbed in all those places plus the Tetons, Patagonia, etc. 

Almost everytime full Goretex anything is overkill. But when you really need Goretex it's a great tool. Try to honestly assess how often you anticipate skiing or climbing in the rain, or in a whiteout/grayout, or when temps are right at freezing. This is when a full hardshell is most effective and also when most people stay home. Incidentally, if you'll only be out for a day anyway, you can often just go home and dry everything out. So, for most people not on multi-day ventures, gore is overkill.

That said, I have an Alpha LT I use for climbing (the version before they switched over to calling it FL). I use the Procline comp for skiing, mostly for the downhill, or for when the "uphill" involves actual climbing. Both are great for these purposes and given the quality of construction I expect them to last me a fairly long time.

Agreed. Currently, I'm climbing in a Nano-Air Light Hoody and a Proton LT Hoody as my "action suit" ninety percent of the time.  The two insulation pieces allow me to mix-and-match as needed.  I live/climb/ski in northern New York State where winters are brutally cold.  I tend to run colder while technical climbing/belaying, so the additional breathable insulation suits me well.  I use my Alpha FL more for wind protection than I do precipitation, but there have been many times when a storm front rolled through and I was glad to have the Gore-Tex Pro.  Due to the Alpha FL's weight and packability, it disappears into my pack and, to me, it makes no sense not to bring it, even though I use it less than forty percent of the time. 

OP: I've tried on the Alpha AR, but due to my layering system, I've never felt the need for pit zips.  I've had them on previous jackets & I never got used to using them.  When I did try them, I didn't think they made a huge difference and to me, they added unnecessary weight.  As for the added durability the Alpha AR provides, again, the Alpha FL has handled anything I've thrown at it without failure and I don't think the added weight/less packability is worth it for me.  

Any highly aerobic activity - approach hikes to an ice climb, skinning/touring, hiking, etc., I don't wear Gore-Tex.  No waterproof/breathable is able to "breath" well enough when you're really working hard.  The most breathable waterproof textile I've ever worn is Polartec's "NeoShell," which most companies don't use anymore.  Not sure why, because it really does breath way, way better than any Gore product I've ever used.  Remember, the less weight you have to haul, the more fun you'll have!

Aaron D. wrote:

So what do you guys think about the Alpha AR? It's pretty safe to say that I've ruled the SV out. At the same time, I just don't know enough the FL. Other then it's great for ice, but I see myself climbing more then just ice.

The Alpha FL is pretty tough. It's not weak and flimsy like a Pac-Lite piece. Trust me, you won't have to baby an Alpha FL.

AlpineIce wrote:

Agreed. Currently, I'm climbing in a Nano-Air Light Hoody and a Proton LT Hoody as my "action suit" ninety percent of the time.  The two insulation pieces allow me to mix-and-match as needed.  I live/climb/ski in northern New York State where winters are brutally cold.  I tend to run colder while technical climbing/belaying, so the additional breathable insulation suits me well.  I use my Alpha FL more for wind protection than I do precipitation, but there have been many times when a storm front rolled through and I was glad to have the Gore-Tex Pro.  Due to the Alpha FL's weight and packability, it disappears into my pack and, to me, it makes no sense not to bring it, even though I use it less than forty percent of the time. 

OP: I've tried on the Alpha AR, but due to my layering system, I've never felt the need for pit zips.  I've had them on previous jackets & I never got used to using them.  When I did try them, I didn't think they made a huge difference and to me, they added unnecessary weight.  As for the added durability the Alpha AR provides, again, the Alpha FL has handled anything I've thrown at it without failure and I don't think the added weight/less packability is worth it for me.  

Any highly aerobic activity - approach hikes to an ice climb, skinning/touring, hiking, etc., I don't wear Gore-Tex.  No waterproof/breathable is able to "breath" well enough when you're really working hard.  The most breathable waterproof textile I've ever worn is Polartec's "NeoShell," which most companies don't use anymore.  Not sure why, because it really does breath way, way better than any Gore product I've ever used.  Remember, the less weight you have to haul, the more fun you'll have!

How do you like your Proton LT? Best uses? It looks like a really nice mid layer. 

Aaron D. wrote:

So what do you guys think about the Alpha AR? It's pretty safe to say that I've ruled the SV out. At the same time, I just don't know enough the FL. Other then it's great for ice, but I see myself climbing more then just ice.

Do you have a specific durability concern? Are you planning to do a lot of rock climbing in the rain? (Not being sarcastic; I work as a guide and spent many a season in the Southeast rock climbing in the rain daily, but I don't know your plans.)

http://www.outdoorgearlab.com/reviews/clothing-mens/hardshell-jacket/arcteryx-alpha-fl

The alpha fl shell is great for everything if you need to have gore-tex on, of course it's always best to only use it when you really need to. I rock climb it, hike, alpine routes, and taking it ice climbing this winter. There's no real need for the Alpha AR when the FL is such a good shell and is super tough. And Arcteryx warranty is really good, they'll take care of you. The Alpha FL is the only piece of gore tex I've ever owned that I would buy over and over again if/when I need to. 

Aaron D. wrote:

How do you like your Proton LT? Best uses? It looks like a really nice mid layer. 

For a mid layer, I can't recommend Patagonia's Nano-Air Light enough.  It's warm, breathes incredibly well and dries almost immediately.  Last year, due to some severe cold I encountered on a multi-day trip, I coupled it with the Proton LT Hoody.  I used the Proton as my outer layer and they both performed very well when used as a system.  When the wind was too much to bear, I layered my Alpha FL on and this system worked very well for me.  I'm talking about swinging tools at elevation in 5-10ºF weather with sustained wind.

The Proton LT Hoody has a face fabric that's a little more tightly woven than the Nano-Air Light, and provides more wind/weather protection.  The fit and craftsmanship is typical Arc'teryx, which is second to none. The Nano-Air Light has 40 g/m2 of FullRange active insulation and the Proton LT Hoody has 65 g/m2 of CoreLoft Continuous active insulation.  The Nano-Air Light's hood fits under the helmet, just like an R1 Hoody, and the Proton LT Hoody, with a stellar Arc'teryx storm hood, fits over the helmet perfectly. 

As you can tell, I'm a fan of both pieces.  When the weather cooperates, it makes needing to wear a softshell or hardshell almost obsolete.  The Proton LT Hoody is basically an insulated softshell that doesn't weigh as much.  That's why my Alpha FL rides in my pack more than I wear it.