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Hardest climb/climber in the world?
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There's no doubt that Ondra is the *strongest* climber in the world right now. My point was simply that Tommy C is more well-rounded and is *accomplished* at multiple disciplines whereas Ondra and Megos have just dipped their feet in the water of hard trad and used their ridiculously inhuman strength and raw climbing abilities to push through it. Alex Honnold is pretty incredible and definitely has the world beat on mental strength...I really doubt there's going to be a repeat solo of Freerider any time soon. I've often wondered just how strong he can climb, as he's rarely at his max (he's done Cobra Crack, but no clue what he tops out at in sport). He's also not much of a multidisciplinary guy...basically just hard sport and trad. Tommy basically dragged him through the Fitz and used him to gun through the hard technical sections. |
Nivel Egres wrote: None of them |
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Warrior wrote: And (more recently) Nalle, as his first real multi-pitch. When a climber from a different discipline can walk all over your specialty, it's hard to argue you are the top climber. |
Warrior wrote: It should be noted that pretty much all of the world class climbers (Tommy included) started off as comp kids. I don't know about any world cups (if that was even a thing in his day) but he definitely won quite a few competitions. That said, by that metric Adam Ondra is, by a long shot, the greatest climber in the world, but he's not the best at anything and I don't think he could just walk up to Century Crack (or even Cobra, for that matter) and on sight it like he would a 14c sport climb. What he did on the Dawn Wall was pretty incredible, up there with Honnold's El Cap solo as one of the most remarkable things that have happened in climbing, but the crux sections were all thin face climbing. Same thing with Megos on the Path...it was basically a really sketchy long boulder problem for him. Both still played to their strengths. Don't get me wrong, it was incredible and way harder than anything I'll ever even dream of climbing. This thread is armchair climbing at its best. ;) People keep acting like the only difference between trad and sport is the protection. |
Ted Pinson wrote: Funny thing actually Tommy kept getting beat by Sharma in comps.
Dude are you seriously saying Ondra couldn't do cobra crack? HAVE YOU SEEN THE V15 CRUX OF SILENCE?????? IT'S A FUCKING FINGER CRACK! Not like cobra crack actually requires any real technique anyway it's jam fingers in and twist you just get pumped and it hurts.
Because when you are good enough it is, Honnold has made this remark in a the video sending in the creek. |
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I AM the hardest climber in the world. I climb as hard if not harder than Ondra and Sharma. I just do it on easier routes. |
that guy named seb wrote: Yes indeed Ondra is in that video bolting ground up ...However he eventually place the bolts on aid hanging from a sky hook ... True bolting on lead ground up, for you young lads education,  |
USBRIT Ross wrote: There are no free stances on an overhanging face or arete. The fact Ondra even tried says something. |
Ted Pinson wrote: I'm going to disagree with you here. Ondra could easily onsight Century Crack after learning some basic offwidth technique, for the same reasons that Randall and Whitaker (who were 5.14 sport climbers) easily onsighted Bellyfull and Trench Warfare. As for Cobra Crack, I'm just going to go ahead and say that if Ondra ever ropes up on that thing he will flash or OS it (not sure if he's watched the videos). You talk about how sport climbing and trad climbing are separated by that huge gulf of oh-so-mystical crack technique, but the reality is that as cracks get harder, the more like hard sport climbing they become. There is absolutely no reason to think that Ondra would not piss all over Cobra Crack and downgrade it to 5.14-. |
Warrior wrote: Seems obvious to me that Ondra is the best climber now, possibly by far. But as a stickler for detail, I don't think it's right to say that Ondra "almost onsighted the Nose." The news reports were a little hard to interpret (perhaps language issues), but as I understand it, Ondra did not free the great roof (despite trying it several times and coming close) or the changing corners pitch (not even sure he really tried it--no reason to think he came close if he did). While we all assume he could climb changing corners based on his overall greatness, he didn't. I don't see that adds up an "almost onsight." |
pfwein wrote: The following is a statement from Ondra through Black Diamond: “Yesterday was probably the longest climbing day of my life. We went with my dad up on The Nose, wanting to free it in a day. We started at first light and up to the Great Roof it was going well, onsighting all of the pitches in a few hours. But the Great Roof shut me down. I had a pretty good flash go, got the beta, lowered and gave it a second shot thinking I would fire it off easily, but I had not realized how important the feet are on this climb. “After climbing so many pitches and taking no rest after my flash, they were super shaky and weak. I fell, gave it even a third go and fell in the end of the traverse. There was no point in giving it more tries and we just wanted to top out. Time to switch to night climbing and onsighting all of the pitches except for Changing Corner, topping out at midnight in the starting rain. |
amarius wrote: Ummm, right--basically what I said? (I had read that before my post. I don't think it's possible to have any insight on how he did on Changing Corner--if he even tried to free it--from the above.) |
Nivel Egres wrote: This is true, but seeing just what a different level Ondra and Megos are from the next tier down of 9a redpoint climbers is also pretty impressive. Don't forget, Megos flashed The Path with relatively little trad experience under his belt. I'm going to go ahead and wager a six pack of IPA that if Ondra ever gets on Cobra Crack, he'll do it first go. Anyone want to take it? |
Mason Stone wrote: climbing friend, no. it would not be correct. the soul core of climbing rocks sport it is about hiding in bushes near boulder problem you have done ruthlessly wires until some poor peopelz they come and they struggles on it, and then you casually come down and chuck a few laps, and also compare yourself to the other endlessly desperately clinging for next grade hollow achievement attempt to prop up your sense identity and self worth |
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climbing friend, yes he has utilized his angry ostrich power for ascending quite hard route with "strange funky" move and inversion, however I go for make flash on project hard this fall coming, and expect my forearm will be quite refresh, oh yes quite refreshhhh, at crux, for which i shall perform rapid fingerlock campus of 7 point palm crushing ring lock of bald eagle talon style, quite strong and bold, not needing utilizations of "sneaky" inversion and foot jam. also perhaps as he is aging he is not quite so filled with the hormone and the rage? he talks of not screaming as the angry ostrich as for his usual power style during the movements and renaming the route silence for this reason. all your flash are belong to me.  |
that guy named seb wrote: Lol calm down. I said he probably couldn't just walk up and onsight it like he does regularly for 5.14 sport climbs, not that he couldn't do it. Honnold was referring specifically to Creek climbing when he said that. |
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Ondra has onsighted (at least) 9 routes graded 8b+, and 6 rated 8c. I think that his chances to flash or onsight Cobra Crack are excellent, would he choose to do so. If it took him more than one day, two at the very most, I would be absolutely astounded. |
Pnelson wrote: Do it first go, or onsight? As Nivel pointed out, there's a huge difference at that level! Adam got a TON of beta from TC when he sent the Dawn Wall. Doing a second ascent, even in remarkable time, is not anywhere near the same as an FA. Anyway, AFAIK Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker have always been trad climbers who climbed sport on the side for training, and were already highly proficient Crack climbers before taking on Trench Warfare. I'm curious if you know differently, as this is the first I've heard of it. I get your point that a lot of skills converge at that level (based on what I've read and can imagine...I'm nowhere near that level obviously) but I disagree that it means Ondra could onsight 14c Offwidth. I'm sure he has the raw strength and training to do it, but it's not the same technique as sport climbing. I'm not trying to put trad on a pedestal, simply pointing out that climbing techniques are different. Maybe Ondra could do it, but he HASN'T. Yet. |
Ted Pinson wrote: When he said about the finger cracks requiring no technique or that it doesn't matter if it's bolts, gear or bouldering you just climb? Also have you actually seen cobra crack be climbed? Not really much to it.
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