Petzl Gully

I decided to replace my BD Raven Ultra with something lighter and compact. I was going to get a Petzl Ride, but the Gully looked pretty similar, so I thought I would give it a go. 

The Gully showed up yesterday and call me impressed. It's got a nice pick that looks like something off a nomic, nice angle of attack, light (260 grams without the pinky rest) .

I might have wound up with something that's closer to my north machines then my raven, but it will be interesting to see. 

I know with the weight these thing aren't going to replace my north machines for hard steep ice, but they look like they could get me by on most alpine routes in the lower 48.

Has anyone gotten out and swung them around? 

Ive used it a bit, but definitely not enough to give a solid review. Self arrest is a bit rough and hard on the soulders when compared to the ride, but that goes for anything with a reverse curve pick. It climbs great for such a light tool, I was quite suprised by it. I feel like it has a very specific use, seeing as it doesn't climb as well as heavier hybrid tools, and is less suited to self arrest duty than the ride or other mountaineering axes. 

I have used the hammer version of the Gully for a few weeks.  I personally wouldn't want to use it for self arrest, but it makes for a good:

- alpine hammer for pickets and pitons

- deadman anchor for crevasse rescue / second tool for climbing out of a crevasse.  In my opinion, it can be alternative to a picket (more uses, only slightly heavier).

- second tool for daggering on steep snow / neve slopes.

- emergency third tool with a more useful adze or hammer, when using a pair of curved leashless, tools (nomics, fuels, etc).

Has anyone tried adding pick weights for piolet traction on hard ice?  I have been considering buying Petzl pick weights to improve penetration in hard ice.

Karl Henize wrote:

- alpine hammer for pickets and pitons

You feel like it's heavy enough? The old short 43cm Sum'tec was used for this but was much heavier.

My buddy used two yesterday to try to climb some water ice inside a crevasse and they bounce off the ice if it is hard. They would work decent on softer ice such as glacial seracs but on water ice they are definitely not going to cut it after WI-2 or so. We also had two of the older sum'tecs with us and they climbed the very hard ice well, but not great. The gullys are awesome light but have relatively limited uses. Not enough weight behind the head for much (if any) ice and too short for glacial slogs but if you combine a glacier crossing with some steep ice and rock they are sweet. YMMV

I really enjoy mine, but I've used it exclusively for ski mountaineering, which is what I think the intended usage is. Works great as a follower's tool, a second tool for daggering (mentioned above), or a lightweight axe when you need a bit extra security on moderate snow. It's light enough to throw along if you think you may need it and you dont notice it until you need it. I couldn't imagine climbing vertical ice with the Gully (there's not enough weight behind the tool), but I also don't climb a lot of WI, so YMMV if you have more experience.

Has anyone tried the Gully with pick weights? 

What about using a pair of these for routes like the kautz glacier on Rainier or the steeper sections of Mt. Hood?

Kevin Adams wrote:

What about using a pair of these for routes like the kautz glacier on Rainier or the steeper sections of Mt. Hood?

I've tried using a camp corsa nanotech for that. It sucked. It may have less head weight than the gully (since it's an aluminum head with steel pick end).

I would go for camp x light or sum'tec. I own the x light and used the last gen sum'tec, both are perfect for routes like that.

I agree with Nick regarding steeper uses. However Gullys could be great on cooper spur but theres nothing more than daggering on that route.

Owen Witesman wrote:

You feel like it's heavy enough? The old short 43cm Sum'tec was used for this but was much heavier.

IMO, the Gully (without pick weights) works well enough for emergency / occassional use (i.e., testing fixed piton rap anchors).  It does take a lot of swings to drive pitons.  If I already had a 43cm Sum'tec, I would use it over the Gully, as a piton hammer.

For those that care, I can confirm that the Petzl pick weights fit well, with no play or rattling.  I haven't tested them with pick weights yet, but I expect that the pick weights will dramatically improve pick penetration in hard ice and hammering.  

Very interesting! Excited hear how it works, I'll do the same and give then a try next time I find some ice

How well do these lightweight axes (Petzl gully adze, petzl ride, camp corsa nanotech) work for self arresting since the adze isn't solid (holes cut in to reduce weight)? I'm looking for a lightweight "just in case" axe to carry on alpine rock climbs where snow *may* be encountered on the approach/descent depending on month/conditions. 

Stever wrote: How well do these lightweight axes (Petzl gully adze, petzl ride, camp corsa nanotech) work for self arresting since the adze isn't solid (holes cut in to reduce weight)? I'm looking for a lightweight "just in case" axe to carry on alpine rock climbs where snow *may* be encountered on the approach/descent depending on month/conditions. 

The gully won't self arrest well, it's reverse curve pick can do some serious damage to your shoulder. The ride and corsa are perect for what you are looking for, their purpose  is to self arrest well but not weigh a lot.

Stever wrote: How well do these lightweight axes (Petzl gully adze, petzl ride, camp corsa nanotech) work for self arresting since the adze isn't solid (holes cut in to reduce weight)? I'm looking for a lightweight "just in case" axe to carry on alpine rock climbs where snow *may* be encountered on the approach/descent depending on month/conditions. 

I've had to arrest with a corsa nano twice (using  approach shoes, thought snow was soft enough to not wear pons). It arrested easily and fast both times, but snow was softer and I didn't gain any momentum. The adze certainly is smaller than say a BD raven, but it's enough to grab.

If I'm not 100% certain there will be a firm snow I stopped carrying the axe on rock routes. I just pick up a sharp pointy rock now. They work for self arrest and don't get stuck on chimney pitches :)

I know it's an old thread but I was curious why the reverse curve pick fo the gully makes it less ideal for self arrest than the pick on the ride? I'm looking for an axe light enough that I'll always bring it on ski trips and don't anticipate any kind of real climbing. The use cases would be self arresting, plunging while boot packing, and crevasse rescue related efforts. Would the ride be a better choice here? Thanks!

Dan Z wrote: I know it's an old thread but I was curious why the reverse curve pick fo the gully makes it less ideal for self arrest than the pick on the ride? I'm looking for an axe light enough that I'll always bring it on ski trips and don't anticipate any kind of real climbing. The use cases would be self arresting, plunging while boot packing, and crevasse rescue related efforts. Would the ride be a better choice here? Thanks!

Yes the reverse curve pick makes self arrest significantly more difficult/dangerous, for the uses you outlines the ride is an outstanding axe, I have climbed easy m4/wi3 terrain with one ride and it wasn't the worst thing in the world.

I have a pair of Gullies (adze and hammer) and a Ride.  I bought the Ride first and then the Gully hammer to have a super light pair but then my wife took my Ride for a trip to the Sierras and I decided I wanted the Gully adze to match the hammer.  The pick weights make a big difference in how the Gully swings.  I've only had a chance to swing the Gullies into summer glacier ice on Baker but they climb up to vertical ice much better than they should for their weight.  They are my choice for split-mo objectives (but so far those never really include any ice climbing) but if I were actually going alpine climbing I'd reach for something a little heavier.  I need to get out on hard snow to practice self arrest with both the Gully and the Ride to see how different they really are when using them back to back in the same conditions.  I'm confident that in snow soft enough to have any noticeable boot penetration they'll feel the same.

Dan Z wrote: I know it's an old thread but I was curious why the reverse curve pick fo the gully makes it less ideal for self arrest than the pick on the ride? I'm looking for an axe light enough that I'll always bring it on ski trips and don't anticipate any kind of real climbing. The use cases would be self arresting, plunging while boot packing, and crevasse rescue related efforts. Would the ride be a better choice here? Thanks!

To answer your question, standard curve picks will dig themselves deeper into the snow when they get caught, reverse curve picks won’t continue to penetrate deeper during self arrest. 

Anyone want to buy an un-used Gully?