Cloud Peak Wilderness: BigHorn Mountains, Wyoming

Hey all! I'm looking into a trip into the Cloud Peak Wilderness in Wyoming for some nice remote alpine climbs. I know the beauty and allure of this place is similar to the Asaroka-Beartooths of Montana, in that there isn't much documented climbing of the area, so it helps keep people away (even more reason to make it there!). As I've been doing research I read that there was a guidebook published for the Cloud Peak Wilderness back in 1977.. does anybody happen to have a copy I could buy/borrow for a few weeks! I'd love some more insight on the area if possible. The American Alpine Journal has been my best resource, and I'd love to cross reference and find other information out if possible. 

Cheers, and thanks for the help! 

Griffen

This might help https://www.wildirisclimbing.com/shop/rock-climbs-of-the-eastern-big-horns

Yeah I heard that place was pretty cool.  

Nothing to see here. Best to just visit and not mention.

Any recent report of snow conditions? i heard there is still a lot up there right now. 

I wanted to get up there this weekend, but am afraid I won't be able to. 

I dont know when this was last updated, but....

http://www.sportslure.com/trail-and-snow-conditions/ 

General Info:
There is 18"-60" of snow throughout the Bighorn Mountain Area at elevations above 9500'.

Our snowpack is currently far above normal. Much of the Cloud Peak Wilderness is difficult to access due to snow and wet conditions. Also, expect a plentiful runoff and water.

Cloud Peak Wilderness Trails:
Many higher elevation Cloud Peak Wilderness trails are buried in substantial snow and ice. There is still 18"+ of snow above 9500', especially in shady and timbered areas.

Lakes above 9500' are still frozen and trails above that elevation will be difficult to traverse. Climbing Cloud Peak or other high elevation mountains will be extremely difficult without snowshoes or skis.

I do have a copy of that old guide book,  see link below,  but you won't find much about the cloud peak area.  The newer guide is to the lower eastern areas -  not in cloud peak wilderness.

https://www.amazon.com/Guide-Wyoming-mountains-wilderness-areas/dp/B0006WO4EA

As far as cloud peak wilderness climbing goes, some folks (e.g. skinner/piana) have done some routes but nothing remotely near the quality of other areas in wyoming like the wind rivers.  My experience is that if you are really desperate, you can find things to climb there, but the rock is generally choss.

mike gibson wrote:

My experience is that if you are really desperate, you can find things to climb there, but the rock is generally choss.

Are you talking kitty litter choss, or just a lot of loose rock choss? 

Thanks for all the insight everyone

Lots of loose rock.  The odd thing that I ran into in the high granite areas is that it was very difficult to find pro placements in solid rock.  Any cracks also meant detached flakes.  One route that was done by skinner/piana on the west side of (Bighorn Peak??) where they drilled bolts for hard moves and ran out the easy 5.8 stuff, but never found much natural pro.  I didnt climb it.  Piana just told me about it.

The one realization that I have finally come to is that the reason nobody has found any good climbing there is because there just isn't any.  And many, much better, climbers than myself have been trying since way before my time.

If there was another Pingora hiding near cloud peak, I dont think it would be a secret. 

As I'm in Msla - I mention I have the eastern bighorn guide.  Have a topo of a couple of alpine routes (about 5.11) in the twin lakes area on the west side.  Also have all the American Alpine Club books going back to 1940.  Climbing magazine has an index for the early years thru the 90's if you want to check that out.  Anyway, get in touch with me if you want to look at any of it.  - Kurt

http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214199/Lost-Twin-Lakes-A-Little-Known-Alpine-Wall-Gets-Six-Long-New-Routes

Anyone still looking for Bighorn info. I was the only climbing guide on NFS permit for 20 years from 80's to 2004 and have continued climbing the great walls in the high cirques. Over 36 first ascents from south to north. I recently found 2023 equipment left behind. VERY Bad ethics. This is wilderness. I've never left anything behind. Even went out of the way to downclimb so no pro was left. No Fixed gear! Bolts absolutely not allowed. If you can't climb it our way, stay out of the Bighorns.

The bolt anchors on the Merlon are 40 years old and iffy....