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Bouldering-Reaching for the next level
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Hey guys I got into bouldering this Feb and am obsessed. I'm climbing up to V5 indoors now and really want to get that V6-7 level this year if possible. I was wondering if anyone can lend any advice or resources for making this jump? Something to help me learn techniques so when I am up there I am efficient as possible and not practicing bad habits. I still have trouble seeing beta and could only boulder V5 because my friend told me every move. He's a good climber but doesn't possess the expertise to not occasionally advise what I come to discover is incorrect or dangerous form Should I maybe be looking for a coach? I want to do this right so one day I can climb V10 EDIT- Guys I am trying to respond to this thread and post a couple videos and its limiting my posts and won't let me... EDIT- Here is a V4 I sent in 2 attempts (Set at V5 but half the people marking it set it at V4), and another V3 most people were marking as V4. Sorry for the bad camera on the V3. Start was a mad easy jug |
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Trolling? Or does your gym have the most generous grades in the world? |
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EDIT- They are limiting my posts so I can't respond anymore. I put the two videos I have in the first post. So now we can move onto whether I should get a coach (not sure if I want to climb outdoors) And yes my gym goes to V11 and there is a climber who has sent that route |
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So you are telling me you have only been climbing indoors for under 6 months but know your gym's grades are legit! Trolling PS: Btw V5 is what most people would consider advanced. It is the start of like a 5.12a rope route and 5.12a-5.13d is probably advanced once you pass that and go into 5.14a you are talking professional probably very few people will casually get to. I mean you are talking about people who have won worldwide climbing comps that still have to work at climbing things in 5.14 range. |
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I totally believe. He has been a member since today. Probably has a members only jacket. Also I've climbed around his unknown hometown and everything there is a sandbag. IN THE WORDS OF Janis Joplin "try a little bit harder" |
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BTW does your gym even have V10 climbs? I don't think my gym, where someone climbs that won world bouldering comp, even has something that goes up to V10. After like V8 level there is maybe 1-2 V9s and maybe a V10 once in a while. In case this is legit post, get outside and climb some real rock. I am sure tons of people on here were like the gym I first started going to climbing V5 / V6 and than went outside the first time and climbed V2 / V3. Remember a legit V3 is probably something most new climbers will not do for probably a min of 6 months of training, but that doesn't work for your average come to the gym climbers so everything in gyms tends to be soft. |
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Jeff, if you like climbing then get a coach. You are plenty strong. But your technique is limited. Find someone who can improve that before you've engrained too many bad habits. If what you really like is being good at climbing, then don't bother. You seem to be making fast progress now, thanks to your strength from other sports. But you will inevitably hit a plateau that will make your progress not so impressive. At which point you would probably be better off switching to a different sport where you can again make rapid progress and enjoy the feeling of being good. |
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Those videos tho. EDIT: I can't stop watching that first top out. Gold. |
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You may be able to do one-arms and levers, but your technique is painful to watch. If you want to climb better, try to focus first on your movement and technique. Like in that video of you climbing the V3, you look like you're about to fall off on every single move. You only stayed on by chicken winging very hard. To me, that means you're not finding the most optimal body position so you're over compensating with strength. Strength alone can only get you so far in climbing. Go talk to some better climbers in your gym, maybe they can give you some pointers. |
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I found another one:
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Is this what grade chasing does to your brains? And I thought chasing dragons was bad! |
Jeff Axelrod wrote: Yeah, sorry, but you look to be muscling through. Nothing wrong with that, but it will hold you back. It also looks to be a dead vertical wall, and not many moves. Get on an overhang, and see how those pinches go for you. Watch what smaller, less muscled climbers do with that V4, especially if they are fluid and graceful. Shoot for that. It did look like you were watching your feet. Be sure to keep your eyes there until the foot is on. Size it up, place it, park it. Precise placements are a big part of what you see in good climbers, and you should recognize it when you see it, and feel it when you accomplish it. Get on a rope, or do some traversing, paying close attention to your feet and using your arms as little as possible. The "Self Coached Climber" is a book you might check out. Have fun! Best, OLH, still....a whale. Beached. Thanks Ted. :-( |
Jeff Axelrod wrote: I just noticed this sentence and had to respond again. You know that one of the best climbers in the world is a relatively young girl, right? One arm pull-ups and levers are far from the only thing that matters in climbing. |
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Helen got to the point before me. At my gym, muscles will do very little to get you through any V5 easily. While they help, technique gets you farther, faster. Ignore trying to get to a certain grade. Instead do all of the V2's and 3's so many times that you can almost use no muscle. Find the techniques that make them really easy. Watch others climb them easier. Once you make lower grades feel easy, it'll become more intuitive to use those moves on tougher grades |
Jeff Axelrod wrote: Okay, ya made me laugh! You didn't need to take your vids down, sir, if you stick with these knuckleheads they will usually come through. But, yeah, Ondra. Copy him. And. Not how you think. Kid has a killer high level of stoke and pure joy. Go for that. And, maybe sneak a peek at his technique while you are at it. Have fun! Best, Helen |
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Made it to V6!!! Thanks for all the support guys This really means a lot |
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If i hear somebody say they climb V10 or 5.whatever I expect that they're talking about their outdoor grade. Indoor grades don't often correlate and are generally meaningless other than maybe to track personal progression/fitness. If you claim you climb a particular grade, but only climb it indoors you may get some funny looks from the actual rock climbers. |
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funny, I thought you boulder V8, why are you excited about V6? Sounds like your ego is FAR ahead of your abilities. Probably best to stay inside to keep your fragile ego from being crushed by real rocks. |
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Gym climbing may not be a sport but it should be. Pretty sure there are tons of indoor competitions. I prefer it as of now and feel climbing hard indoor routes is a meaningful accomplishment to me personally. Considering that six people in a row at the start of this thread didn't even believe I climbed V5, I find that evidence in of itself that it means something. Lot of snobbery and discouragement going on here, as well as negative assumptions about motives and limitations. I admit I don't climb a route because it "moves" me in some way. I climb it because it's fun and a challenge and personally meaningful. . I obviously know I don't know how to climb and am a beginner. If it rubs some people the wrong way that a beginner with bad technique can climb V5/6 then they need to stop and look at themselves. If I offended anyone with my comments it wasn't intentional and I certainly respect female climbers and anyone climbing hard |
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As far as grade hunting, well climbing the next grade up seems like as reasonable a goal as any, and is generally indicative of progress. I seen nothing wrong with aspiring to climb the hardest routes in a gym. All of the videos I see of higher level climbers are projecting ultra hard routes to push themselves to the next level. Grinding away at V2 indefinitely doesn't do it for me |
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I also would point out I was accused of being a troll but most of the responsss in this thread have been trolls of me Not a single person has recommended an online resource or where to find a coach. Just yelling about ego and grade hunting and outdoor climbing being the only real climbing. One book recommendation- thanks Helen No one even asked why I climb- just assumptions and trolls. Shameful |
