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Texas rock climbing ideas?

Original Post
Dustin McMains · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2017 · Points: 0

In fairly new to outdoor sport climbing and I want to take a few friends out on a camping/climbing trip. Looking for walls like 5.6-5.9, I'm comfortable up to a 10b but I need something they can climb. I was thinking about enchanted rock, any tips for enchanted rock or ideas of the places in Texas with camping on site or nearby?

Tim Sherry · · Portland, OR · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 551

Well your options are semi-limited and geographically constrained by how far you want to drive. Enchanted Rock is a good start. Sharp granite, but decent outdoor climbing. Other options: Hueco Tanks (if you don't mind driving to El Paso), Reimer's Ranch. Start here and figure out what's close to you: https://www.mountainproject.com/v/texas/105835804

BJB · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 195

Reimers Ranch near Austin.  

Enchanted Rock is not a sport climbing area.  You say you are new to climbing, and when I was kind of new I would mistakenly think that if a route had bolts it was a "sport route". At areas like Enchanted Rock though, just because a climb has bolts, doesn't make it a sport route.  A lot of those bolted routes will be much more run out than you may be used to and a weird, insecure style that relies a lot on friction rather than grip.  Maybe you already know this, but I did not when I was just starting out.  Those types of bolted climbs typically aren't much fun for beginners either.  There is some easy trad there though.  Also, Enchanted Rock involves a bit of hiking from area to area and it's pretty easy to get lost, so it can be a bad mix for introducing people to climbing.  

Reimers Ranch is a much more sport friendly area.  It is much easier to navigate.  The camping is not as great as Enchanted Rock, but I believe it is available, if not in the ranch then nearby.  Reimers Ranch has hundreds of sport routes and something at every grade.  Also, if you were going to be driving to Enchanted Rock, Reimers is not that far away.  

Hueco Tanks are cool, but they are in El Paso, which is, unless you are in El Paso, not close.  

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 252

What BJB said.  You can set a few topropes at ERock in some areas if you know how, but the climbing is also a very specific style (friction slab, crack) that is not a good place to go if you're a new climber.  The routes that are labeled "sport" at ERock are mislabeled IMO; there are no sport routes there.  Reimer's is a good option; friendly approaches, solid climbing (though can be tricky), and very generous bolting, plus lots of easy bolted routes.

Dustin McMains · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2017 · Points: 0

Thanks y'all, I'm definitely gonna try out reimers ranch!

Blakevan · · Texas · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 56

There is no camping at Reimer's and make sure you're out of the park on time unless you want a fine.  They take that seriously because they don't want anyone hurt left in the park.   Camping near there is at Pace Bend park and there is actually deep water soloing there if the lake is high enough.

I'll echo what the others have said but E-Rock is a great place once you know what you're doing.  Check out Oxford Ranch for camping if you can't get a spot in the park.  Be there early or you may have to wait as they shut the park down with the parking is full.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Midwest
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