Climbing rope - indoor/outdoor suggestions

I know this is not a new topic, and I have read most of the forums. But I am looking for some advice. 

I regularly climb 5.11-5.12 top rope routes with my lady at my new gym, but we have to have our own rope in order to lead, which has prevented me from lead climbing at my new gym. Other gyms I've been to supply lead ropes so you don't have to always bring your own. (Not sure whether or not that is standard). Regardless, I now have a need for a rope. I have not done any outdoor climbing as of yet, but we plan on getting outdoors a lot this summer.  Im debating on whether to just get a durable all around rope I can use indoor (2 days a week) plus some weekends this summer outdoors, or get a thinner and shorter, non treated rope for indoors and a thicker, dry rope for outdoors. Im thinking 60m should be fine for most of the local single pitch crags here in TN. Looking for recommendations for lead ropes that fit the bill as far as what my rope/ropes should be. 

Smartasses can skip this post because Im genuinely looking for some advice from climbers who have had these same thought processes. Thanks guys. 

What is the maximum height of the leads routes in the gym? If you can do them with a 30m there are places you can get ropes that short quite cheaply and then keep it nice and clean for the gym.

Will you lead or top rope outside? I would get a 9.8 mm 60 m that you find for a good price. Use it for both, and if/when you eventually upgrade your outdoor rope, cut the old rope in half and use it exclusively for gym leading (if the gym climbs are <15 m, which in many places is the case). If you're top roping only outside, you could do the same as above, or get a burlier bigger rope, and maybe consider getting some used/cheap thinner ~40 m gym rope. If you know anyone who's selling a slightly used rope, you can grab that for gym climbing too. Also, dry ropes are nice, but if you're just starting climbing outside, it's not worth it if you find a good deal on a non-dry. You're not ice climbing or climbing in the rain... maybe you'd go canyoneering (idk?), which would be the only reason to need a dry.

I would recommend getting a rope for inside and out. For one it's a pain dealing with a 60m rope indoors. Also no one wants your dirty crag rope all over the gym. For your outdoor rope, maybe go 9.8-10mm, and I like dry treated. I would recommend a 70m over a 60m. I think you'll find as soon as your new 60m rope arrives, you'll find a route that requires a 70. As far as brands, I just picked up a Petzl (arial 9.5), and I love it. Sterling makes decently cheap 35m gym ropes, and they're pretty good.

My gym is 50 ft. And Ill be lead climbing outside for sure. With the possibility of toproping if I take some people that don't lead, but my lady and I will mostly be leading outdoors and definitely indoors. 

I echo that a 60 m in a gym is a pain. You'll often lead a route, lower, pull through and lead another without untying/retying, and pulling through an extra 30 m gets old each time.

Cameron Cunningham wrote:

My gym is 50 ft. And Ill be lead climbing outside for sure. With the possibility of toproping if I take some people that don't lead, but my lady and I will mostly be leading outdoors and definitely indoors. 

A selection of short rope: http://www.gearexpress.com/climbing/rope/short-rope.html

Cameron Cunningham wrote:

My gym is 50 ft. And Ill be lead climbing outside for sure. With the possibility of toproping if I take some people that don't lead, but my lady and I will mostly be leading outdoors and definitely indoors. 

Make sure to figure a bit extra for the overhang. 55ft = 17m, a 40m rope should work in pretty much any gym in the US currently. Given how cheaply you can get a short rope, it would be worth it to have a separate gym and outdoor rope, if you plan to lead in this particular gym regularly. The gear express link above is good stuff.

In my experience it's been about 50/50 for the gyms that provide their own ropes vs have the customers bring their own ropes.

Try to get the gym rope and your outdoor rope in very different colors, and store them in very different bags, so you do not accidentally grab the wrong rope, thinking that it is a 60m, to go climbing outside.

Avoid a diameter that's difficult to belay with. That means large diameters. You don't need anything larger than a 9.5. I have two lead ropes--this is the largest diameter I have. Get a 70m. You might find yourself wanting a chance to get on a 130 ft sport route (I recently climbed at the Namaste Wall in Kolob Canyon, where I used and victory whipped with a 9.1 :D). Get psyched! Woohoo!

You don't need anything larger than a 9.2 for the gym. 

Paul Hutton wrote:

Avoid a diameter that's difficult to belay with. That means large diameters. You don't need anything larger than a 9.5. I have two lead ropes--this is the largest diameter I have. Get a 70m. You might find yourself wanting a chance to get on a 130 ft sport route (I recently climbed at the Namaste Wall in Kolob Canyon, where I used and victory whipped with a 9.1 :D). Get psyched! Woohoo!

You don't need anything larger than a 9.2 for the gym. 

Hey, wahoooo! at ya, Paul

Seconding consider your belay device, two ropes, and, longer than wall height for the gym rope. Leads can be significantly longer, and the falls more significant, in gyms than the top rope routes. You might consider a stopper knot or tying in to the belayer end, just to keep that habit. I'm starting to do this even with the top ropes at the gym, now that I'm belaying a lot more leaders outside. I want it to feel wrong to skip it!

And, congrats and have fun. First rope is a cool moment!!

Best, Helen

I've had good luck with the Edelweiss Rocklight 9.8mm rope and my Beal Yuji 10mm rope as well. I cut part of the Edelweiss while rappelling once and so I ended up cutting it to two smaller lengths, which have been perfect for shorter routes, while I use the Beal for longer routes. As appealing as the 40m rope sounds, you don't want to end up needing more rope than you need.

I would get a short rope specifically for the gym and then get a different one for outside. For outside, I would go with something around 9.8 in diameter and think about getting a 70 if you plan on climbing at T-wall in chattanooga. There are quite a few routes at t-wall where a 60m rope might work but a 70m works better and gives you some peace of mind. Other than diameter, I'd say do your research because there are tons of options out there, each with its own set of advantages and disadvantages in different scenarios.

Here's a few things to think about in general when shopping for a rope:

• Thinner ropes are often lighter and handle better but will wear out faster. How often do you want to be buying a new rope? Are you willing to buy them more frequently in exchange for nicer handling and lighter weight? There is somewhat of an exception with this as some ropes are woven tighter to achieve a smaller diameter using the same amount of material. These ropes will hold up better than other ropes of the same diameter but they tend to perform more poorly at handling and won't be more lightweight. When you're looking at diameter, also look at the weight which is grams per meter. 
• There are 2 ways to wear out a rope: abrading the sheath or wearing out the core by taking lots of falls? Are you climbing low angle routes or steeper ones? Are you rarely falling or whipping at every bolt? Most climbers are somewhere in between. Look at the sheath % of the rope, more sheath will hold up better on low angle routes with abrasive rock and top roping. More core means that the rope will more durable for overhanging sport climbing and it won't lose its elasticity as quickly.

Matt Himmelstein wrote:

Also, get a tarp/bag.  It makes it way easier to drg it around the gym and kjeep it flaked.

On that same line of thought, get a collapsible laundry hamper. I got mine from Target for about $10, and it’s even easier to use than a tarp for indoor climbing.

Get a 70m for your outdoor rope. People are bolting more and more routes that require a 70m. Even if majority of the routes you do only need a 60m, the off chance you’ll encounter a route that requires a 70m is enough reason to get one. Plus if you climb a lot at your redpoint limit, the ends will wear out faster so you’ll need to cut it. 

When I climbed a lot I just bought whatever rope (from a known manufacturer) was the cheapest, since they worn out much faster than any of my other gear. I pretty much had to replace a rope every year. But now I don't get to climb that much, so I look for ropes with the "features" I like. I only buy bi-pattern ropes now, even factory middle marks aren't cutting it for me.

aikibujin wrote:

On that same line of thought, get a collapsible laundry hamper. I got mine from Target for about $10, and it’s even easier to use than a tarp for indoor climbing.

Pro tip right here.

Noah Yetter wrote:

Pro tip right here.

I have not seen anyone with a hamper for a rope bucket, but more than a few use Ikea bags and I have seen milk crates.  For me, I have a Trango tarp that makes it simple and clean to drag around the gym and easier and less bulky to store and tote in and out of the gym.

Anything you can flake your rope onto/into would work.

http://www.ikeahackers.net/2013/10/frakta-rope-bag.html