Must visit Crags in CO

Looking for suggestions of "must visit crags" and classic must do routes around the Denver to Colorado Spring area. Will have about a week to spend in the area and want to squeeze in as much climbing as possible. Want to avoid high elevation crags, looking for mostly sport and trad in the 5.7-5.12 range. Also crags with free camping near by would be great. 

Hard to reply as your post is very open ended.  

You are not going to find free camping anywhere a long the front range without going stealth, there is a stickied forum in the Colorado board about this exact subject.  The only free camping is BLM or NF land which you are going to have to go into the mountains for.

Eldo and Lumpy are my suggestions.  Stick with 3 and 4 star routes and you really can't go wrong.  Beware of crowds on the weekends though.

Another great area to check out is the South Platte. There is a ton of great climbing there, and camping is easy to come by. Eldo and Lumpy are great as well. Good sport in Clear Creek Canyon and Boulder Canyon should round out a solid time in the front range.

Mike is right though. You'll most likely have to pay for camping. Not much to come by in terms of free camping.

Depending on when you come through (ie if Rampart Range Road is open), I would suggest Devils Head.  Free camping.  Just over an hour from Denver.  Some campsites within walking distance of the crag(s).

Eldo.

I have not been to Devils Head but it looks and sounds amazing!  

The Developers to be forthright,  in their "respective camps" what-ever the tensions were about?

 positions on 1st to publish? broken agreements, about was in or out? I don't remember. But 2 guide books.

And the result sounds like an exciting new big with big fresh modern protection. Funhog rock monkey  climbing zone!

There are  serious  looking shake-fest trad lines in the most sought after conditions and locations ,; fresh & exposed.

scenic and a sense of alpine remoteness with gear & bolts and  anchors ! (I think it sounds almost as good a Shut Eye Ridge )

I would also say that the while it is more than cragging , things in the RMN park that have easy even 1/2 paved approaches.

at the other extreme is Penitente Canyon.

 Penitente Canyon, almost an out door gym experience. Eldo. Canyon is so where in between

Colorado has the Black Canyon of Gunnison.  Thirty (30)odd "easy access World Class " rock climbing zones @ least.

Let's see - that's a lot of requirements and seems to me that a lot of them are mutually exclusive.
But let me start by asking:  What do you consider "high altitude?"  I can go from there.

After living here for a few years, and especially since I came from SD as well, I wouldn't say any crags are really must visit. No matter where, be prepared to wait in line for your climb at whatever overcrowded crag you decide to visit. I'd much rather spend the weekend in Spearfish or Rushmore or Ten Sleep than anywhere on the Front Range, and its not even close.

It's been a long time since I lived in Boulder, but I used to enjoy the Flatirons/Dinosaur Mt, Clear Creek, and Castlewood, for fun, easily accessible cragging. Mostly sport.

drew M wrote:

After living here for a few years, and especially since I came from SD as well, I wouldn't say any crags are really must visit. No matter where, be prepared to wait in line for your climb at whatever overcrowded crag you decide to visit. I'd much rather spend the weekend in Spearfish or Rushmore or Ten Sleep than anywhere on the Front Range, and its not even close.

BINGO!

drew M wrote:

After living here for a few years, and especially since I came from SD as well, I wouldn't say any crags are really must visit. No matter where, be prepared to wait in line for your climb at whatever overcrowded crag you decide to visit. I'd much rather spend the weekend in Spearfish or Rushmore or Ten Sleep than anywhere on the Front Range, and its not even close.

Go back to SD!

Wunsch's Dihedral on Cynical Pinnacle in the Cathedral Spires is as good as it gets. I don't know about free camping though.

drew M wrote:

After living here for a few years, and especially since I came from SD as well, I wouldn't say any crags are really must visit. No matter where, be prepared to wait in line for your climb at whatever overcrowded crag you decide to visit. I'd much rather spend the weekend in Spearfish or Rushmore or Ten Sleep than anywhere on the Front Range, and its not even close.

I wouldn't agree fully, edlo, clear creek, north table, flatirons. yes are over crowded but there are many other gems along the front range as well down in the Colorado springs area. Staunton state park is fantastic few people maybe two other climbers in the whole area every time i have gone even on amazing weekends. South Platte buffalo creek area this is also where devils head is located. oak creek canyon road (THE WET MOUNTAINS) in canon city holds some of my favorite areas on this side of the state. yes shelf is there and over crowded but go another mile past and take a left you going to end up alone with some of the best climbs that area has to offer. Drew have you even seen the wets and its zero crowds? I grew up here in Colorado and know the front range isn't the best but it has a lot more potential then SD I assure you. If you get a wild hare the western slope is truly amazing with all the climbing.  

 (sorry I was signed into the wrong account this stament is made by chris) 

I wouldn't agree fully, edlo, clear creek, north table, flatirons. yes are over crowded but there are many other gems along the front range as well down in the Colorado springs area. Staunton state park is fantastic few people maybe two other climbers in the whole area every time i have gone even on amazing weekends. South Platte buffalo creek area this is also where devils head is located. oak creek canyon road (THE WET MOUNTAINS) in canon city holds some of my favorite areas on this side of the state. yes shelf is there and over crowded but go another mile past and take a left you going to end up alone with some of the best climbs that area has to offer. Drew have you even seen the wets and its zero crowds? I grew up here in Colorado and know the front range isn't the best but it has a lot more potential then SD I assure you. If you get a wild hare the western slope is truly amazing with all the climbing. 

I love hearing all you Coloradans complain about overcrowding.

Mateo San Pedro wrote:

I love hearing all you Coloradans complain about overcrowding.

Yeah, I live here and it makes me laugh a bit. I have plenty of luck getting away from crowds, there are plenty of great crags in Clear Creek, Eldo, Bolder Canyon, Lumpy, Shelf, etc. 

Devil's Head and Golden Gate State Park are really nice areas. A bit of hiking to get to many walls, so it really thins out the herd.

Tony B wrote:

Let's see - that's a lot of requirements and seems to me that a lot of them are mutually exclusive.
But let me start by asking:  What do you consider "high altitude?"  I can go from there.

No Alpine climbing. I wouldn't say my requirements are mutually exclusive I was just asking for suggestions on where some of the better climbing is from Denver to Colorado Springs. 

Travis Bieber wrote:

No Alpine climbing. I wouldn't say my requirements are mutually exclusive I was just asking for suggestions on where some of the better climbing is from Denver to Colorado Springs. 

He probably meant the free camping.  You could really help yourself by clarifying what you want - 5.7 sport to 5.12 trad tells us nothing.  Single pitch or multi.  Dates of trip.  Etc.  Thing about CO is there is a lot of variety and everyone has their preferences.  

What time of year? There are some raptor closures (someone mentioned Cynical Pinnacle - closed for peregrines through July 31 I believe). It's easy to avoid the crowds if you are willing to hike. Check out the South Platte - huge area, amazing climbing, free camping in many areas, both sport and trad options.

ErikaNW wrote:

What time of year? There are some raptor closures (someone mentioned Cynical Pinnacle - closed for peregrines through July 31 I believe). It's easy to avoid the crowds if you are willing to hike. Check out the South Platte - huge area, amazing climbing, free camping in many areas, both sport and trad options.

Good point. If Cynical is closed, check out Turkey Rocks. Amazing crack climbing, up to 3 pitches, and good bolted lines too.