The best epoxy for wave bolts

Hi folks,
I have been using redhead epcon a7 epoxy for wave bolts. I am frustrated by short work periods and availability of mixing tips. I am looking for something better. What do you prefer?

Really, no suggestions.  

Anyone use Ultrabond1?

I have used both Hilti RE-500 v3 and powers AC100+. Both are approved by ClimbTech. The AC100+ is readily available and is super easy to use, the small cartridges can be used with a caulking gun. Another plus is the grey color when it cures. It's one drawback is the short working time,if its hot you have only a few minutes before it starts so set. I just started using the Hilti RE-500 v3. It seems a bit harder to work with, it is fairly runny when it comes out. It also requires a special dispenser made by Hilti. That being said, it seems to be the strongest product available.

The OP said he was frustrated with short work periods, so AC-100 is clearly not for him considering it sets in 3-5 minutes. Here is a list of epoxies that are acceptable. Except for the Redhead A7, they all have hot weather work times of 15 minutes or longer:

- Powers Pure 110+
- Hilti RE-500
- Simpson SET-XP/ SET-22
- Redhead A7 (5-7 min set time)

Of those, the Simpson SET-XP probably has the longest gel period and you can find it at Home Depot if you need to.

Thanks everyone.  I appreciate the help.  

Francis Haden wrote:

AC-100 Gold is an vinylester, not an epoxy. I think A7 is epoxyacrylate. The 110+ and XP are pure 1:1 epoxies.

20 kN wrote:

AC-100 Gold is an vinylester, not an epoxy. I think A7 is epoxyacrylate. The 110+ and XP are pure 1:1 epoxies.

Even though A7+ is desribed as epoxy and hybrid epoxy/in various places the certification declaration says it is vinylester.

As Francis has obliquely referenced by pointing out the biggest problem testing is actually joining the bolt to the tester there isn´t a "best" or even "better" resin system anyway, it either gets the required pull-out value or it doesn´t. Once the bolt/resin combination is stronger than any force you could impose or stronger than whatever you clip into it anything more is irrelevant which is why the bolt manufacturers are relatively relaxed about what you use. Nobody actually makes a bolt that "needs" epoxy to be safe, I allow any certified resin grout system or quick-setting cement as they all will get the required values.

Jim Titt wrote:

 Once the bolt/resin combination is stronger than any force you could impose or stronger than whatever you clip into it anything more is irrelevant which is why the bolt manufacturers are relatively relaxed about what you use. 

It might not be irrelevant over the course of a bolt's entire lifespan. The resin might be strong enough to exceed the 25kN UIAA requirement when it's brand new, but what after several thousand lead falls and 20 years time? 

Even if we can guarantee the resin will never degrade overtime under any circumstance, there is still the human error factor. Any resin might be strong enough in concrete when installed standing on the ground, but perfect is much harder to achieve on the side of a cliff. Equippers get air bubbles in the installation, the bolt or hole might not be perfectly clean, there are a million things that can happen that can reduce the strength of the placement. In those examples, stronger resin might make the difference between meeting the UIAA required pullout value and not. Glue-in bolts have failed in the field for a wide variety of reasons. Among other examples, Thailand had an issue awhile back where their epoxy was degrading and as a result their bolts would hold falls when new, but not after a few years. It's occurred in limestone in other locations as well.

If the installer screws up the installation it´s rather irrelevant which one you start with.

Bolting is always a compromise based on cost and drilling effort, if climbers always equipped routes with the strongest bolt they can find with the greatest tolerance to failed installation and resin deterioration they would buy the biggest, longest bolt they can buy. Since I make them (standard bolts up to 300mm long) and know the proportion of sales at the various lengths it is clear this is not the way people are thinking. 

In reality the best resin is the one you can easily get and work with, that was the OP´s question in fact. He had no interest whatsoever about how well the resin held the bolt in, he wanted one that had a longer gel time and could get the nozzles easily.

20 kN wrote:

The OP said he was frustrated with short work periods, so AC-100 is clearly not for him considering it sets in 3-5 minutes. Here is a list of epoxies that are acceptable. Except for the Redhead A7, they all have hot weather work times of 15 minutes or longer:

- Powers Pure 110+
- Hilti RE-500
- Simpson SET-XP/ SET-22
- Redhead A7 (5-7 min set time)

Of those, the Simpson SET-XP probably has the longest gel period and you can find it at Home Depot if you need to.

Put your AC100+ in the fridge and carry it to the crag in a cooler.  

Chris Vinson wrote:

Put your AC100+ in the fridge and carry it to the crag in a cooler.  

+1 for this. I often keep my AC100+ in a cooler, sometimes with a bottle or two of frozen water to keep it cool. I have a soft-sided cooler that I sometimes haul up on the climb as well. I know it sets up quicker than RE500 and others but I've used the AC100+ a ton, including in hot temps of 80-90+ degrees and can make it work without wasting a bunch of nozzles. 

Of late I am seeing issue with AC100+ Gold cartridges that are leaking internally. Typically, they leak when I get close to the end of the tube. In one case the plastic part in the tube the caulk gun pushes against broke which created a big mess. Never had an issue with Hilti RE500 although it's overkill adhesive.