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Edek Falkowski
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Mar 21, 2017
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Saranac Lake, NY
· Joined Jan 2016
· Points: 830
Background: I'm a college student. Money is tight. I'm looking to buy something to build easy anchors for trad mostly in the Adirondacks. I was originally thinking of just getting two [240cm] - [10mm dynex runners] but I noticed that the 18mm nylon runners are about half the price. I also read in How to Rock Climb that dynex gets weaker with loading, eventually to the point where it's weaker than nylon. Are there any real advantages to using 10mm dynex over 18mm nylon aside from 8mm of "bulk"? Are there any drawbacks to using the 18mm nylon? Would cordalette be a better option for me? Thank you!
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Timothy L
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Mar 21, 2017
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New York
· Joined Aug 2015
· Points: 110
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stolo
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Mar 21, 2017
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Lake Norman, NC
· Joined Sep 2016
· Points: 214
I either use a 240cm dyneema sling or 6mm cord (if I do not use the rope for the anchor), using the thicker nylon webbing would be much too bulky for my taste. If swapping leads and straight forward anchor, just use the rope. Much faster! Just slings here... not that pricey!
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CornCob
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Mar 21, 2017
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Sandy, UT
· Joined Nov 2012
· Points: 20
My partner and I like using a 240cm 18mm sling for the anchor. Personal choice, not necessarily the best one for you. If the bulk bothers you I would recommend just using cord or the rope.
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john strand
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Mar 21, 2017
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southern colo
· Joined May 2008
· Points: 1,640
You got rope right ? Really good for trad anchor building...IMO the best
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Ted Pinson
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Mar 21, 2017
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Chicago, IL
· Joined Jul 2014
· Points: 252
So, more info would be helpful, as the answers could range from "yes" to "no" depending on the situation. Are you talking about building gear anchors to connect and equalize multiple pieces of gear, or two bomber bolts? Is this truly a "trad" anchor to belay up a second and/or leader for the next pitch, or are you looking to toprope off of it? If you're not sure, 20-25' of nylon cord to tie a cordelette is probably a safe bet and will cost you next to nothing. If you know this will be for true "trad climbing" (IE: top belaying), learning to build anchors with the rope is obviously the most cost efficient (no additional cost), but there are some situations where it might not be ideal (block leading).
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Nathan Hui
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Mar 21, 2017
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San Diego, CA
· Joined Feb 2016
· Points: 0
IMHO, a 20-30 ft length for a cordalette gives you the most flexibility. Tie it in a loop and treat it as a sling for equalettes and quadalettes and cordalettes, leave it untied and use it for a really long cordalette, leave it untied and sling a tree or horn, etc. Double it up a couple times, and you've made yourself a long enough of a length for a PAS. Yea, webbing can be lighter, and wear less, but get this - in 4-6 years, hopefully you'll have a job, and you'll have money to spend on gear. In the meantime, your cordalette will do the trick. My guess is that the difference between having a wad of webbing and a wad of cord hanging off your backside isn't going to make the difference between sending and not. If this is the case, get what gives you more options.
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Pete Spri
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Mar 21, 2017
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jun 2009
· Points: 342
For a 240m length sling, 10mm would be less of a cluster than say a 13 or 14mm sling. IMHO, better to carry a couple of double runners (120cm length). They are more versatile overall, and you can usually do most anchor rigging if needed with them. I either use the rope for anchors, or use a double runner plus the rope.
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tshapiro1182
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Mar 21, 2017
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Carpinteria, CA
· Joined Oct 2014
· Points: 75
Top rope set ups in the Dacks are pretty variable - some can be done off bolts, some off trees far from ledges, etc... I was able to get by mostly with a pair of fairly long cordalettes. If you're going anywhere near Keene Valley, stop into the mountaineer and talk with them. The staff there knows the climbs very well and can get you set up with the right lengths for what you'll want to do. They often have scrap webbing for cheap as well.
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