Best guidebook for the Flatirons?

Hey guys! I'm hoping that somebody is able to help me out.. My brother goes to school in Boulder and wanted to go and visit him for spring break and do some climbing in the area. I'm hoping to climb a bit of trad and sport and wondered if anybody had recommendations?? I heard Jason Haas's book is pretty good? Any info is appreciated!

Sam Root

Jason's book will have everything you need and then some.

My recommendation? Make your visit count by getting out to Eldo, Boulder Canyon, Lumpy, etc. The Flatirons are a junkshow and definitely not worth it.

Jonny D, do you know of a good book for those areas?? And anything in particular you recommend? Thanks a lot!

Jonny d wrote: The Flatirons are a junkshow and definitely not worth it.

Jonny is incorrect. There are some magical spots in the flatirons.
OTOH, queuing up for the First or Third may not yield a wilderness experience.

If you could share a little more about what you are looking for, in terms of difficulty, style, commitment, etc, you would get better advice as to particular areas and routes.

Mark E Dixon wrote: Jonny is incorrect. There are some magical spots in the flatirons. OTOH, queuing up for the First or Third may not yield a wilderness experience. If you could share a little more about what you are looking for, in terms of difficulty, style, commitment, etc, you would get better advice as to particular areas and routes.

I'd love to do some easier trad climbing (up to 5.10ish) and sport climbing up in the 11s or so. Honestly just looking for some beautiful and fun climbs in the area! Multi pitches would be cool as well.. Any advice is super helpful!

Sam Root wrote: I'd love to do some easier trad climbing (up to 5.10ish) and sport climbing up in the 11s or so. Honestly just looking for some beautiful and fun climbs in the area! Multi pitches would be cool as well.. Any advice is super helpful!

Are you going to be able to climb during the week, or only on weekends?

Mark E Dixon wrote: Are you going to be able to climb during the week, or only on weekends?

I'll be there for about 10 days from the 19th to the 29th.. Does the area get pretty busy during the weekends?

Sam Root wrote: Does the area get pretty busy during the weekends?

Yes, very.

You should consider retitling your thread to something like "classic routes to climb near Boulder during spring break" or start a new thread if you want some suggestions.

I'm no expert ut here are a few.

The First flatiron by the north ridge or east face is classic. On a weekday.
The Maiden, by the north face (east ridge supposed to be good, but I havent done it.) Probably ok on a weekend. Seal Rock by the east face too, less classic, but also uncrowded.

You should do something in Eldo, Bastille crack, Rewritten, Yellow Spur among the options. On a weekday.

In Bocan, maybe visit Animal World, Avalon or Upper Dream Canyon, again on weekdays.

Clear Creek has an industrial feel to it, nevertheless I really love the area.

Although often crowded, nearly all the routes at teh Canal Zone are good. Likewise Cat Slab.

Books for Eldo, Boulder Canyon, Lumpy. Lumpy might be cold during spring break, the other two are better odds of nice weather.

Gambit (Shirt Tail Peak) is under the raptor closure, I do believe.

I really appreciate all the info guys! Definitely had never heard of the raptor closures before, super cool though. So excited to get down there and check out the area!

Long Ranger wrote:Gambit (Shirt Tail Peak) is under the raptor closure, I do believe.

According to the ECSP website there are currently no closures in the Park.

The flatirons are awesome. Sure it's run out slab climbing on some janky rock, but I LOVE being up there high above the city. Super long easier (if you want it) routes.

Jason's book is the best, but don't forget about Gerry Roach's compiliation.

amazon.com/Flatiron-Classic…

That DOES seem strange, but jives with what's listed, here:

cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

(as of 3/2/17)