Finger Pulley Tendinosis

Hey all,

My most recent injury is tendinosis of the A2 pulley in the middle finger on my left hand. Below is the treatment that I have found most useful. Background on the injury and treatment at the end of the post.

1. Graston - This has been the NUMBER ONE contributor to my quick recovery. I do this at least twice a week, often everyday. I, though this may not be the best practice, also do self-care using the Graston technique. I just use a porcelain soup spoon (Chinese style spoon) and some coconut oil. Contact me for details.
Link --> grastontechnique.com/about

2. Eccentric Exercises - Done by putting a rubber band around your fingers and flexing them open. Click here for a video. I do this for 30 seconds 3 times a day.
youtube.com/watch?v=e7qM0Em…

3. Isometric Exercises - I could not find a video or image for this, so I'll do my best to explain. Get a lacrosse, massage, or any other type of ball the does not deform when you squeeze it. The ball should be really strong, really tough. Now, grab the ball with your hand, wrapping all your fingers around it, then squeeze as hard as you can. I do this for 3sec a rep and for 10 reps total. I do this twice a day.

4. Finger Massage & Stretching - I do this after any of the other exercises mentioned and just whenever I am bored. Stretching is at end of video.
Link --> amazon.com/Goda-Acupressure… youtube.com/watch?v=B86QxHC…

5. Open-Hand, Low-intensity Climbing - No crimping. No pinching. Just open handed climbing on big holds, low-angle. I make it interesting by during interval training such as 1 min on, 1 min off, 4x4s on a rope, etc. I do this 1-2 times a week.

6. Weight Lifting - Since I'm not climbing at a high intensity, I lift to stay in shapes. Obviously, there are thousands of ways to lift weights. I prefer high intensity intervals using supersets.

Background Info
For full disclosure, here's a quick summary of myself and the injury. I'm 34 years old and have been climbing for 10 years. I have bouldered V10, 5.13c/d sport, 5.13a trad, and 5.12 big walls. I, when healthy, climb 3-4 times a week. During the school year, I climb indoors, only going outside while in trips or perhaps twice a month. When indoors, I often use training techniques like hangboarding, weighted pull-ups, circuits, and intervals. In the summers I travel and climb everyday. Indoors, I climb at 40/45 degree bouldering walls. I rarely rope climb indoors, only to project. In addition to climbing, I do a daily bike commute of 30 minutes. Last but not least of importance: I have had a history of wonky, non-cooperative fingers. I often tape (X-method). My pulleys are frequently sore to touch, but they do not show bruising, have any range of motion issues, nor any swelling.

When I injured my finger, I was completely warmed up. I was bouldering on a systems wall set at 40 degrees. I got on a V8/9 crimp boulder (Moonboard yellow crimps), made a move, then felt pain in my middle finger on my left hand. Before this, I had alreayd done a few crimp lines up to V7. I began investigating treatment the next day. I tried contrast baths, Lewis Reactions baths (Dave MacLeod advocates for this), and light taping. I tried these for two weeks. I had no improvement. After talking with some physical therapists and chiropractors, I came to the system listed above. As I said, this system has been most useful, returning me to climbing in just a couple weeks.

Contact me with any questions.

Best,

Randy

Petty semantics I know, but I wonder whether it's appropriate to call a ligament injury a "tendin"osis?

First vid fail, could you re-post, most interested.
And while we are nitpicking, you are not climbing at high intensity, V10 and 5.13+?
Right. In my dreams.
:)

climbing friend,

as with all "climbing" injuries, you must simply stop doing touching of your own self so much?

Thanks for sharing.

Regarding Graston technique, I thought it was interesting and did a quick search. I couldn’t find any evidence of effectiveness (versus placebo). As the technique appears to be touted by a commercial enterprise (training courses, special tools) some skepticism seem appropriate. Honest question: how does one differentiate from quackery?

I'd have agree with aleks-zebastian

Christian: My PT used that term to label the injury. I hear you, though: it's really just semantics. Bottom line is I have an overuse injury.

Muscrat: Vid is working now, no? And with the kids these days, V10 and 5.13 are becoming obsolete.

Aleks: Well said, my friend. Well said.

MikeSLC: I hear you that the reserach is inconclusive. But graston -- like dry needling or acupressure -- is non-invasive and realtively low-cost. If it works for you, do it. You have little to lose. I could not say the same for reserach proven techniques like cortizone injections. Here's a article with more info:
dailyburn.com/life/fitness/…

Jake-up: Great minds think alike.

My chiro is doing graston technique on my injured DIP joint/a5 pulley. My question is...it hurts more than the original injury! Usually a tiny bit of swelling after thr graston and increased pain to the touch. Any ideas of whether this is helping or hurting?